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      09-26-2013, 09:25 AM   #1
hbiscuit
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What would you do in this situation? A Tale of Two VANOS solenoids...

So I get the dreaded Engine Malfunction when on 100% throttle for any length of time.

It really only manifests itself on the highway, as I'm rarely on 100% throttle during city driving.

Cleaned out the VANOS solenoids a few weeks ago, and noticed a big improvement in overall performance. But would still get the Engine Malfunction warning.

Being impatient, I ordered a pair of new VANOS solenoids from ECS Tuning, and now they're sitting on my desk looking at me.

I also ordered the Bavarian Technic scan tool, but that won't be here until Monday.

I also really need an oil change.

The rational part of me wants to wait until the scan tool comes in, just in case only 1 of the solenoids is bad, which I suspect may be the case.

The impatient part of me wants to leave work right now and swap the solenoids really quick and go for a test drive.

ahhh... what to do, what to do.
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      09-26-2013, 10:09 AM   #2
Grip&Go
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man-o-man same f**king problem on my 08 135i
got code 2a87 on the outlet/exhaust side.
Changed oil
Swapped both code is still on the exhaust side.
going to remove them both and clean them with carb cleaner.
I only have the engine malfunction light when
WOT 1st 2nd and 3rd car drives great with everyday driving even pushing it up to 5500rpms. its just WOT.
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      09-26-2013, 11:50 AM   #3
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Same issue. Just replace both. It's not worth it to go through the effort of getting to them and cleaning them just to put the same old part back in. I replaced both about a month ago and car is running nice and strong now.
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      09-26-2013, 12:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grip&Go View Post
man-o-man same f**king problem on my 08 135i
got code 2a87 on the outlet/exhaust side.
Changed oil
Swapped both code is still on the exhaust side.
going to remove them both and clean them with carb cleaner.
I only have the engine malfunction light when
WOT 1st 2nd and 3rd car drives great with everyday driving even pushing it up to 5500rpms. its just WOT.
I almost forgot I had this problem since taking a job where I can walk to work.

But whenever I'm reminded, it is really really really annoying turning my car on/off to reset errors. This isn't my damn PC!
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      09-26-2013, 12:16 PM   #5
hbiscuit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icabod7 View Post
Same issue. Just replace both. It's not worth it to go through the effort of getting to them and cleaning them just to put the same old part back in. I replaced both about a month ago and car is running nice and strong now.
Well, I'm definitely replacing them (they're sitting in my office) but am debating on if I should scan the car & change the oil first.

Ahhh.
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      09-27-2013, 05:21 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpnwhite96 View Post
Well, I'm definitely replacing them (they're sitting in my office) but am debating on if I should scan the car & change the oil first.

Ahhh.
Scanning the car would be great for diagnosis - it'll alert you to what code it is and at least point you in the right direction. It may be your vanos solenoids, but then again it could be something completely different. Then again, I guess you've already bought the solenoids... but you could sell them on if the problem was something else
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      09-29-2013, 07:44 PM   #7
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I had the exhaust code. Cleaned and swapped, still got exhaust code. Put new ones in, went and changed the oil right after. Have not had the code come back - and this is after about 10-12 dyno pulls.

To anyone with this issue, I'd suggest just replacing both and being done with it.
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      09-29-2013, 07:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grip&Go View Post
man-o-man same f**king problem on my 08 135i
got code 2a87 on the outlet/exhaust side.
Changed oil
Swapped both code is still on the exhaust side.
going to remove them both and clean them with carb cleaner.
I only have the engine malfunction light when
WOT 1st 2nd and 3rd car drives great with everyday driving even pushing it up to 5500rpms. its just WOT.
why would you take the time to swap them and not clean them while they were out?

Cleaning didn't work for me. Since replacing them both though, no more error.
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      09-30-2013, 06:59 PM   #9
hbiscuit
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Replaced them, still got the light.

Got the bav tech cable today... 30FF fml.

I think it may have to do w/ my super rattley wastegates...
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      09-30-2013, 07:53 PM   #10
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^ I should have paid more attention to your original post. didn't clue in that you weren't actually reading codes at that point. The engine light can be any number of things. 30FF definitely is not a vanos code.

Oh well, vanos solenoids going are common enough that you may very well have had to replace them in the future anyway.

Sounds like 30ff is caused by boost leak.
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      09-30-2013, 11:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpnwhite96 View Post
Replaced them, still got the light.

Got the bav tech cable today... 30FF fml.

I think it may have to do w/ my super rattley wastegates...
I don't think it is a total loss. All of us swapped the Solenoids out at one point.

do you get the 30FF in prolonged pulls?

this code can be a boost leak or boost control issue. Like Boost solenoids, vacuum lines, vacuum tanks etc.

if you've installed any performance part along the intake such as a CP or IC, I would look at those connections first.
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      10-01-2013, 04:07 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foghat View Post
^ I should have paid more attention to your original post. didn't clue in that you weren't actually reading codes at that point. The engine light can be any number of things. 30FF definitely is not a vanos code.

Oh well, vanos solenoids going are common enough that you may very well have had to replace them in the future anyway.

Sounds like 30ff is caused by boost leak.
Quote:
Originally Posted by marc@x-ph.com View Post
I don't think it is a total loss. All of us swapped the Solenoids out at one point.

do you get the 30FF in prolonged pulls?

this code can be a boost leak or boost control issue. Like Boost solenoids, vacuum lines, vacuum tanks etc.

if you've installed any performance part along the intake such as a CP or IC, I would look at those connections first.

I did gain a lot of power back (that I had no idea was missing) when I swapped both VANOS solenoids for new ones.

I *suspect* my rattling ass wastegates + the 30FF are inter-related.

Only mod is JB3, but it's on Map 0 and has been for the past year or so.

The Engine Malfunction light occurs within 10 seconds of going WOT in 6th gear, never (or so rare that I've forgotten) in gears 1-5.
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      10-01-2013, 04:07 PM   #13
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The front end was worked in awhile back... might remove the bumper cover this weekend and check the IC connections
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      10-01-2013, 05:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpnwhite96 View Post
The front end was worked in awhile back... might remove the bumper cover this weekend and check the IC connections
if you logged, do you see excessive WGDC compared to previous (on the same map)? logs can you help pinpoint the issue some time.
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      10-01-2013, 06:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc@x-ph.com View Post
if you logged, do you see excessive WGDC compared to previous (on the same map)? logs can you help pinpoint the issue some time.
Can the Bavarian Technic software do logging? (just got it yesterday so haven't had a chance to play much)

Is it safe to close the door with something plugged into the OBD2 port? Looks like the door panel will hit the shit out of the connector
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      10-01-2013, 06:26 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpnwhite96 View Post
Can the Bavarian Technic software do logging? (just got it yesterday so haven't had a chance to play much)

Is it safe to close the door with something plugged into the OBD2 port? Looks like the door panel will hit the shit out of the connector
you have a lot of clearance so no need to worry about the connector at all.

Yes the BT tool can log. not the friendliest for logging but it does the job.
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      10-01-2013, 06:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marc@x-ph.com View Post
you have a lot of clearance so no need to worry about the connector at all.

Yes the BT tool can log. not the friendliest for logging but it does the job.

Then... off to log some data! This gives me an excuse to go acquire dinner.

Better make sure the laptop is charged up.
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      10-01-2013, 06:29 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpnwhite96 View Post
Then... off to log some data! This gives me an excuse to go acquire dinner.

Better make sure the laptop is charged up.
Yup! sure for the variables you want to log before hand and SAVE the config!!!

There is a looong list of variables, you don;t want to go through it more than once. Believe me lol
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      10-01-2013, 06:34 PM   #19
hbiscuit
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Theres a local guy who will adjust wastegate arms for $250.

I'm crossing my fingers for it to be that.
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      10-01-2013, 11:21 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpnwhite96 View Post
Theres a local guy who will adjust wastegate arms for $250.

I'm crossing my fingers for it to be that.
that's one potential issue. but don't spend money before you debug properly.

I kept throwing money when I had the E90 335i, and changed everything and I kept getting the dreaded 30FF. It turned out to be the boost solenoids in the end.
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