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07-08-2013, 06:14 AM | #1 |
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12,000 miles, 3 rattles
after just fixing (in crude fashion) the "glue coming unstuck" rattle on the drivers side door, and still attempting to figure out the "can't find it rattle in the center armrest/console" i appear to have gotten the worst rattle of all, the "somewhere around the speedometer and you can feel it in your hands while steering" jarring.
a caveat: i live in NYC, and the roads here are pretty bad, lots of potholes which for the most part i do a good job avoiding, but unavoidable bumps etc. am i nitpicking? or are these rattles just the bane of the e9x M3's existance. anyway, does anyone know how to fix the speedo rattle? don't tell me to press the search button
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07-08-2013, 06:25 AM | #3 | |
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and my fix for the glue sticky door jam is to stuff some cardboard on the side.
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07-08-2013, 07:01 AM | #5 |
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Maybe try some thin sheets of foam (i.e Lowes or Home Depot), with or without the tape/adhesive backing. Kind of similar to the foam for door jams to fill voids/openings. I have also seen people use felt, but I think the foam is better because it will fill the void better and prevent movement of the plastic. Just a thought.
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07-08-2013, 08:56 AM | #6 |
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do you have aluminum trim? My dash rattle was caused by my trim piece. The Aluminum is glued on to a plastic backing, and if not secured, it rattles.
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07-08-2013, 09:01 AM | #7 |
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I had a rattle until I replaced my aluminum trim with carbon leather. I still get a little noise when in the stiffest EDC setting. But I run 30 series all around and have H&R springs which are kind of rough.
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07-08-2013, 11:24 AM | #8 | |
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http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...t=rattle+index on the speedo rattle. You can remove the cluster with the two torx screws at the top, and apply some thin automotive felt in areas that touch.
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07-08-2013, 12:11 PM | #9 | |
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07-08-2013, 12:16 PM | #10 |
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did the same swap, no more rattles in the dash. My rear sunshade still rattle a little.
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07-08-2013, 01:12 PM | #11 |
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well i fixed it sort of by basically wedging a piece of cardboard between the leather insert and the door right by the latch attachement. you can hear the sound of the glue tearing when you wedge the space open. it's really annoying
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07-08-2013, 01:13 PM | #12 |
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nope carbon leather. will report back after my dealer says he can't replicate anything
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07-08-2013, 01:43 PM | #13 | |
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I like how it's assumed the dealer won't be able to replicate the issue. So true.
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07-08-2013, 02:06 PM | #15 | |
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07-08-2013, 02:11 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
http://www.amazon.com/JVCC-FELT-06-P...utomotive+felt
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07-08-2013, 02:14 PM | #17 |
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I removed the door panel and applied some krytox to the areas where the panel meets the steel. Invisible and solved. OPening the door panel actually leads you to find more sources of rattles. The bowden cable moves around too much, the clips at the top need lubrication with krytox, the bowden cable can use lubrication, all the door clips can have their gaskets deterioriate and need replacement (dirt cheap), removing the window/lock switch mechanism and using some krytox eliminates the "creak" from that shitty plastic used by BMW.
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07-08-2013, 07:26 PM | #18 |
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I totally hear you and i appreciate. You're right of course. I guess the fact that this latest rattle is impacting my feeling of the wheel in my hands really set me off. I will have the car for a long time, I know I will have to get used to the rattles. But really? In my hands?
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07-09-2013, 09:11 AM | #20 | |
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07-09-2013, 09:29 AM | #21 | |
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07-09-2013, 09:43 AM | #22 |
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actually no its when i go above say 45mph. and it's always there. no matter the smoothness of the road. i think it has to be something in the speedometer section but im very hesitant to open it up.
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