Brake Problem, Please help!

[MLSavage]

Hi guys, I have an issue with my new brakes that I installed myself on my 2002 325i.
I have Brembo OEM rotors
Hawk HPS pads
I also changed the lines and the fluid.
All 4 wheels were done. I applied anti-seize on the hub face and brake grease in all specified locations to every DIY online.

This was my first brake job done by myself (with the help of my uncle), everything was fine when I first started to bed the pads in, no noise, no vibration. Shortly after bedding the pads in I started to get pedal feedback and a "whoom whoom whoom" sound from inside the car under moderate to heavy breaking; it's a clear clanking sound outside of the car coming from both front tires.
We re-bleed the brakes to make sure there are no bubbles and check that everything is installed correctly, and it is.
I decide to see if the sound would go away when the pads wear in further. It doesn't, it did become a noticeable lighter sound for 2 days and then came back to the normal clanking and whoom inside.
I talk to all of the car guys at my work, including my uncle and we think its a warped rotor.
I check the rotors with a dial caliper and the right front rotor is out of spec, I'm relieved because I think I have solved the problem, I order a new rotor and I finally installed it today.
I bed them in and just like last time, no sounds or issues my first few bed in pass by's, and then it comes back. To say I'm depressed at this point is an understatement.
Changing the warped rotor has not fixed the issue. I still have the noise and the pedal feedback.

I am hoping someone knows what is going on, I am out of ideas, please help!

[Dackelone]

OEM is not OE. If you don't want to put up with warped rotors only buy BMW brake rotors from a dealer. Brembo, Zimmermann, ATE, BOSCH they are all inferior to the steel that BMW uses. There is a difference.

Also... when you say you replaced ONE rotor... did you? Brake should always be replaced by axle not just one side at a time.

[MLSavage]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

OEM is not OE. If you don't want to put up with warped rotors only buy BMW brake rotors from a dealer. Brembo, Zimmermann, ATE, BOSCH they are all inferior to the steel that BMW uses. There is a difference.

Also... when you say you replaced ONE rotor... did you? Brake should always be replaced by axle not just one side at a time.

I specified OEM to let you know that it's not a performance rotor. If I would have just stated brembo the consensus would have been they would have been performance (I assume).

I did only replace one rotor today. I previously replaced all 4, I checked the rotors with a dial pin gauge and determined that one of the rotors was out of spec. That is the one rotor I replaced today. It did not solve the problem.

[Pig Farmer]

Did you come to a full stop or activate the ABS when bedding? The will cause uneven transfer of pad material to the rotors which is often mistaken for a wrapped rotor. Remove the rotors and scrub them with an abrasive pad or fine sand paper. Then do a series of 70 to 10 mph stops letting the rotors cool for a minute before doing the next stop. Do 8-10 stops beginning with 50% braking pressure working up to 80-90%, but don't activate the ABS. After the last stop, drive the car for 10-15 minutes without touching the brakes. This will allow the rotors and transferred pad material to cool. Your biggest challenge will be finding the right road.

[MLSavage]

Nope, no ABS engaged during bed-in. No full stops, I was always rolling after the bed-in runs.

EDIT: Just because I didn't engage ABS doesn't mean I bed them in properly, I understand that.

I do feel I bed them in correctly, I also feel that I did everything else correctly and I still have problems so my feelings are out the window at this stage.

If I don't get any other ideas my last resort is taking it to a shop.

Are you supposed to replace the anti-rattle clips when you change rotors and pads? None of the DIYs called for it and I did not.

[Pyrat 2]

Don't know about the whoom sound but the clank could be because the spring clips on the back of the pads are not tensioned enough. I had this on my 2000 323 and my audi a3. I've learned my lesson and always bend them so that the pad is very snug in the piston. When I did this my problem went away. Again don't know about the whoom sound other than maybe a wheel bearing issue.

[GaryS]

Originally Posted by MLSavage

Are you supposed to replace the anti-rattle clips when you change rotors and pads? None of the DIYs called for it and I did not.

For 135i, BMW says to replace them every 4 years.