Improving Turn-in

[Experimental]

I did a search on this, but couldn't seem to find a clear, similar situation and thought this might be helpful to others in the future.

My 135 with 28K miles has the BMWP suspension, style 269 wheels and PSS tires. I feel like most everything is sorted out in the suspension aside from turn-in. It's heavy and I feel it could be more precise...especially given the fact this is a 3300lb. car.

Are we talking just changing out bushings, or would you recommend the M3 lower control arm kit from ECS? http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...ade/ES2586480/

I really don't want to make the car any more stiff. Would throwing more camber at the car with that kit help turn in?

[GaryS]

Originally Posted by Experimental

I did a search on this, but couldn't seem to find a clear, similar situation and thought this might be helpful to others in the future.

My 135 with 28K miles has the BMWP suspension, style 269 wheels and PSS tires. I feel like most everything is sorted out in the suspension aside from turn-in. It's heavy and I feel it could be more precise...especially given the fact this is a 3300lb. car.

Are we talking just changing out bushings, or would you recommend the M3 lower control arm kit from ECS? http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E82-135...ade/ES2586480/

I really don't want to make the car any more stiff. Would throwing more camber at the car with that kit help turn in?

I think you should try less toe in front. If you have a little toe-in now, try zero toe.

[1Pirate]

I recommend the M3 control arms and tension rods. They really improved turn in and steering feel on my 135i. Changing out the bushings may have the same affect, but I have no first hand experience with just changing the bushings. The M3 control arms and tension rods are nicer pieces compared to the stock parts. If you upgrade to the M3 parts you will also need an alignment.

[Dackelone]

You could try with the cheapest mod first... a new alignment!

Usually having some toe out helps in turn in. But you don't want too much "toe out" other wise you will chew thru your front tires.

1M/M3 tie rods might be in order. I think having the 1M/M3 front suspension bits isn't a bad idea too. But I would start first with a good alignment.

[Focusedintntions]

+1 to the alignment idea. Have them dial in a bit of toe out up front and a bit of toe in the rear and your turn in will be much quicker and responsive. Stiffer bushings will increase feel, but not necessarily improve turn in. You'd see a better gain from those under heavy load once the turn in has happened in the form of less deflection of the suspension geometry.

[Experimental]

Thanks for all the advice!

It's actually about time I get the alignment and balancing done (City of Atlanta roads suck!) so this works out. Depending on how that goes, I may upgrade to the M3 suspension parts.

I see that when the PSS tires were installed, the shop set the total front toe from 0.43 degrees to 0.24 degrees. Total rear toe is set at .33.

[GaryS]

Originally Posted by Experimental

Thanks for all the advice!

It's actually about time I get the alignment and balancing done (City of Atlanta roads suck!) so this works out. Depending on how that goes, I may upgrade to the M3 suspension parts.

I see that when the PSS tires were installed, the shop set the total front toe from 0.43 degrees to 0.24 degrees. Total rear toe is set at .33.

I don't know how degrees translates to inches. Rear toe should be around 3/16" toe-in. Since you have significant toe-in in front now, I recommend zero toe in front. That will give the best possible tire wear, and steering will feel lively but not twitchy.