what do i need to fit everything in? (pic inside)

[flinchy]

so i have this much clearance between the strut at about 90% lock (may currently be scrubbing on SOMETHING - unsure:

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...73220139_n.jpg

that's 8.5" +45ET


i'm wanting the M3 control arms in the near future, which i've been told adds .75deg camber.. that alone would smash into the strut lol

i also want coilovers and a 1-1.5" drop, which adds camber/brings the strut closer in... also with this sized wheel it's not far off the lip of the guard.. sooo i'll need to camber in a little so it doesn't scrub

what sized spacer and how much camber will i need to avoid both the inner and the outer?

[Focusedintntions]

Adding m3 arms won't cause the rim to hit. You are fine bc that's how much space I have between my rim and strut. Adding camber plates or the arms will move the whole strut in conjunction with the hub. No matter what you do the gap for the wheel and the strut won't change. If you have rubbing issues it's something else.

[BrokenVert]

Dont people in this situation normally put on a 5mil spacer? Thats also what Apex recommends as well if im not mistaken.

[GaryS]

I agree with Focused. None of those things will move it closer. Also, that's what mine looks like, and it's never been a problem in over a year. You might need spacers and more camber for wide tires, but not because of the rim.

[flinchy]

Originally Posted by GaryS

I agree with Focused. None of those things will move it closer. Also, that's what mine looks like, and it's never been a problem in over a year. You might need spacers and more camber for wide tires, but not because of the rim.

Don't the m3 arms at .75 degrees of camber? This angles the wheel further and it would hit. As well as higher castor means at lock it would DEFINITELY hit (ED: ohh hm well fair enough if the wheel wont hit due to the whole thing rotating around... PHEW haha) - for some reason i thought of it as almost two separate items rather than all moving together

Doesn't Lowering also bring the strut more vertical or something?

It would DEFINITELY hit in that situation :/. Guess a 5mm spacer will cover it either way since i dont want to get new wheels YET haha

I'm not wanting to add camber plates at all, full new coilovers and control arms - i've been told by another member that with the same fitment as me, with the same coilovers i want, the inner lip of the wheel hit the strut even without much lowering.


Ok i'll get a 5mm spacer, shouldn't hit the guard - any recommendations on brand?

I think i'm hitting at 100% lock but i really never go that far in day to day lol, not too worried as long as normal driving won't be a major pain

[GaryS]

Originally Posted by flinchy

i've been told by another member that with the same fitment as me, with the same coilovers i want, the inner lip of the wheel hit the strut even without much lowering.

If the coilovers have different dimensions than stock... There was a thread about that in the last few days.

[flinchy]

Originally Posted by GaryS

If the coilovers have different dimensions than stock... There was a thread about that in the last few days.

the one that's about 3 down? haha

no one has posted what spacers to get there either

what spacers ARE the best/good ones to get? brand wise, i mean

[Bdh821]

I have apex arc8s 8.5" et45 up front. I have a 10mm spacer on them to prevent my sidewall from rubbing the lower perch on my coilovers. im running 235/40/18 star specs. I barely rub my fender now. I'm gonna eventually upgrade to arc8s et38

[fboutlaw]

Originally Posted by flinchy

Don't the m3 arms at .75 degrees of camber? This angles the wheel further and it would hit. As well as higher castor means at lock it would DEFINITELY hit (ED: ohh hm well fair enough if the wheel wont hit due to the whole thing rotating around... PHEW haha) - for some reason i thought of it as almost two separate items rather than all moving together

True. To the first bit, the rest is rubbish.

The M3 arms are longer. They connect your frame to the lower part of the wheel carrier. That pushes the entire assembly out further and increases the width of your front wheels.

Your strut tube is connected to the carrier as well, but instead of at a joint, it's rigidly attached. That clearance you have now to the strut tube will be the exact same no matter what you do to the joints on the bottom of the carrier.

Originally Posted by flinchy

Doesn't Lowering also bring the strut more vertical or something?

False. Opposite.

The lower the car, the more in line the front joints will be pushing out the track widths at rest. This increases negative camber.

Originally Posted by flinchy

It would DEFINITELY hit in that situation :/. Guess a 5mm spacer will cover it either way since i dont want to get new wheels YET haha

Based on the above image a 5mm spacer is fine, but won't really buy you anything. If you're not rubbing, you won't rub. If you are rubbing, get a spacer.

Originally Posted by flinchy

I'm not wanting to add camber plates at all, full new coilovers and control arms - i've been told by another member that with the same fitment as me, with the same coilovers i want, the inner lip of the wheel hit the strut even without much lowering.

This depends on the strut and spring setup. Your coilover perches need to be above the tire in this setup, so you can't go super low and slam the car unless you add huge spacers.

Originally Posted by flinchy

Ok i'll get a 5mm spacer, shouldn't hit the guard - any recommendations on brand?

I think i'm hitting at 100% lock but i really never go that far in day to day lol, not too worried as long as normal driving won't be a major pain

Don't buy a spacer. This actually makes your wheel travel longer from full lock to full lock. In some applications you may have to worry about hitting the wheel liner in the front in back.

If it's not broken, don't fix it. If anything, upgrade it!

[flinchy]

Originally Posted by fboutlaw

True. To the first bit, the rest is rubbish.

The M3 arms are longer. They connect your frame to the lower part of the wheel carrier. That pushes the entire assembly out further and increases the width of your front wheels.

Your strut tube is connected to the carrier as well, but instead of at a joint, it's rigidly attached. That clearance you have now to the strut tube will be the exact same no matter what you do to the joints on the bottom of the carrier.





False. Opposite.

The lower the car, the more in line the front joints will be pushing out the track widths at rest. This increases negative camber.



Based on the above image a 5mm spacer is fine, but won't really buy you anything. If you're not rubbing, you won't rub. If you are rubbing, get a spacer.



This depends on the strut and spring setup. Your coilover perches need to be above the tire in this setup, so you can't go super low and slam the car unless you add huge spacers.




Don't buy a spacer. This actually makes your wheel travel longer from full lock to full lock. In some applications you may have to worry about hitting the wheel liner in the front in back.

If it's not broken, don't fix it. If anything, upgrade it!

fair enough - recently read an article saying that the strut becomes more vertical which wrecks the geometry though? which does go against what i've read about lowering coilovers = negative camber

and isn't a spacer basically the same in effect as lowering offset, so whats the reason not to get it? i mean, i'll be getting the ER widebody soon anyway :/

hmm, because i want to go about an inch to an inch and a half lower... maybe i'll just get it all and see what i need after? hah

[fboutlaw]

Originally Posted by flinchy

fair enough - recently read an article saying that the strut becomes more vertical which wrecks the geometry though? which does go against what i've read about lowering coilovers = negative camber

and isn't a spacer basically the same in effect as lowering offset, so whats the reason not to get it? i mean, i'll be getting the ER widebody soon anyway :/

hmm, because i want to go about an inch to an inch and a half lower... maybe i'll just get it all and see what i need after? hah

The geometry will not be altered significantly. You'll only be able to tell the differences if you are a competitive driver on the tracks constantly.

No on the lowering offset thing. A spacer moves your wheel away from the carrier.

Be prepare to be "entertained" with the fitment of the ER widebody. Don't do it if this is a style thing. Also, do NOT get the wet CF. It's just a CF overlay on the fiberglass one. I have it. It has caused an endless headache. It fixed my rubbing issue. It's a because racecar thing.

And your lowering won't be an issue. I've over 1" lower. Looks fine, handles great.

[flinchy]

Originally Posted by fboutlaw

The geometry will not be altered significantly. You'll only be able to tell the differences if you are a competitive driver on the tracks constantly.

No on the lowering offset thing. A spacer moves your wheel away from the carrier.

Be prepare to be "entertained" with the fitment of the ER widebody. Don't do it if this is a style thing. Also, do NOT get the wet CF. It's just a CF overlay on the fiberglass one. I have it. It has caused an endless headache. It fixed my rubbing issue. It's a because racecar thing.

And your lowering won't be an issue. I've over 1" lower. Looks fine, handles great.

Cf over frp? That's false advertising then, as they claim that it weighs less?.. If it's just an overlay then it's not truly wet cf..

Fitment not 100% i take it? Even though they claim 100% bolt on bolt off >_<

It's both performance and looks.. I mean, it obviously looks amazing, i've seen two in the flesh over here, but.. Wet, and painted factory colour .. Apparently it bolted up perfecty though -- i actually have 1 other question about it.. Do the factory under body/wheel arch liners fit with it? I sent them a messge about it ages ago and they never replied.

Definitely a mostly 'because racecar' thing, as much as it is my daily.

What do you mean by 'moves wheels away from the carrier' depending on width and offset the innet lip can move outwards by the same amount ?