Best price for solenoid valves?

[Qbrozen]

My car is throwing codes again, even when I don't run WOT. Figure I'll go ahead and replace the sensors causing the codes.

Anyway, I thought these vanos solenoid valves were around $60 each not too long ago. The best I can find right now is $107 at autopartsway.com. Anyone know of a better price?

thanks.

[phrenetiK]

why not just clean them with brake cleaner and reuse them?

[1911A145]

What are the solenoids for and why are they going bad?

[Qbrozen]

I already cleaned them just 2k miles ago. They are obviously not going to last, especially if they are throwing codes at 20% throttle before the car is even full warmed up.

1911a145, they are a fairly common failure point. There are 2 of them, 1 for intake valves and 1 for exhaust valves. They are vanos sensors. That's about all I know.

[S54dan]

$103.63 / ea plus $6.95 to NJ, in stock

part no. 11367585425

[Indo Rider]

There are the vanos solenoids and then there are the camshaft positions sensors. The solenoids are not sensors... they are solenoids. They effect changes in oil pressure related to controlling the vanos adjustment units. I heard someone say something about replacing the sensors, but only if replacing the solenoids doesn't alleviate the codes. Some people say that cleaning and/or swapping the positions of the solenoids helps. Personally, I had outlet vanos codes that kept coming back. Cleaning and swapping didn't help at all so I replaced them both with new units (about $220 shipped for both as I recall). Not a single code since. This was right around 50K miles.

[Qbrozen]

Thanks for some clarification, Indo.

out of curiosity, is a solenoid not sensing anything? And, if not, what exactly is it doing?

I'm at 52k and have been having the problem since around 49k, so it seems like that 50k'ish is the magic number for needing to replace these. Just another maintenance item. No big deal.

Dan, I PM'd you. Not sure how to order from you. Please let me know. Thanks.

[Indo Rider]

Just wikipedia "solenoid" to learn more. These vanos solenoids we're talking about have a piston in the center that moves per instruction from the computer and that controls oil pressure that acts on the "vanos adjustment units" to adjust valve timing for both intake and exhaust valves.

http://www.bmw-sport.net/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=79

[Ghost135]

Originally Posted by Qbrozen

My car is throwing codes again, even when I don't run WOT. Figure I'll go ahead and replace the sensors causing the codes.

Anyway, I thought these vanos solenoid valves were around $60 each not too long ago. The best I can find right now is $107 at autopartsway.com. Anyone know of a better price?

thanks.

$200 for both... shipped

[Qbrozen]

I ordered from Dan @ United.

Thanks, Dan.

[BrokenVert]

so what were saying is - me sitting pretty at 76K miles should order a pair.

They just pull out of the front of the motor and change like sparkplugs but with a small hose right?

[Qbrozen]

Wires are attached, but yes. Each has 1 small bolt and you just give a little twist and pull out. Very easy, although you do have to squeeze your hands down there a bit and kind of feel around.

Out of curiosity, are you running a tune? And, if so, for how long? Wondering if that has anything to do with it.

[BrokenVert]

Originally Posted by Qbrozen

Wires are attached, but yes. Each has 1 small bolt and you just give a little twist and pull out. Very easy, although you do have to squeeze your hands down there a bit and kind of feel around.

Out of curiosity, are you running a tune? And, if so, for how long? Wondering if that has anything to do with it.

Anything to do with what? No issues. Im just a fan of preventative maintenance.

But yes im running a small tune - stg 1 ppk essentially. Have been for a few years now.

[Qbrozen]

Originally Posted by BrokenVert

Anything to do with what? No issues. Im just a fan of preventative maintenance.

But yes im running a small tune - stg 1 ppk essentially. Have been for a few years now.

I just meant if running a tune had any correlation with failing solenoids. So I was asking if you, a person with no failed solenoids at 70k+ miles, was running a tune. Not that I believe a tune would necessarily cause the failure, but rather expose a solenoid that isn't in top condition.

Just grasping at straws. That's all.

[Indo Rider]

Originally Posted by Qbrozen

...Not that I believe a tune would necessarily cause the failure, but rather expose a solenoid that isn't in top condition.
....

I think this very well may be true. I was getting outlet vanos codes about 1 out of every 3-4 WOT multi-gear pulls with tune active. Tune deactivated I usually couldn't get the codes to pop no matter how much I beat on it. This is why I never tried to take it to dealer for these codes even though I was still in warranty at the time. After replacing solenoids, no codes and I've been running more aggressive tune than ever.

[Qbrozen]

Originally Posted by Indo Rider

I think this very well may be true. I was getting outlet vanos codes about 1 out of every 3-4 WOT multi-gear pulls with tune active. Tune deactivated I usually couldn't get the codes to pop no matter how much I beat on it. This is why I never tried to take it to dealer for these codes even though I was still in warranty at the time. After replacing solenoids, no codes and I've been running more aggressive tune than ever.

Good to know.
My solenoids from Dan arrived today. That was fast!

[umermariner]

Originally Posted by Dan@UnitedBMW

$103.63 / ea plus $6.95 to NJ, in stock

part no. 11367585425

Are you talking about N52 engine? If yes, it should be same for 5 series and 1 series. I have E60 with N52 engine (2006 530I), and the part numbers I am getting for it are two (11367560462 & 11367585425), I believe the 2nd one is correct, as got it from reliable dealership.

I also cleaned them along with oil change about 5 months ago, when I was getting error code 1554. The light went away .However; yesterday, got CEL again, and the error code is 1553. I am suspecting the same problem, however; this time I would like to change them. Both times, there is nothing noticeable other than the CEL light.

Question: I do not want to get/ replace them and find out that the light was for another reason. Whats the best way I can confirm that they are the culprit? Also, should I replace both (if one is good, is it worth changing for no reason???)

Thanks.

[S54dan]

Originally Posted by umermariner

Are you talking about N52 engine? If yes, it should be same for 5 series and 1 series. I have E60 with N52 engine (2006 530I), and the part numbers I am getting for it are two (11367560462 & 11367585425), I believe the 2nd one is correct, as got it from reliable dealership.

I also cleaned them along with oil change about 5 months ago, when I was getting error code 1554. The light went away .However; yesterday, got CEL again, and the error code is 1553. I am suspecting the same problem, however; this time I would like to change them. Both times, there is nothing noticeable other than the CEL light.

Question: I do not want to get/ replace them and find out that the light was for another reason. Whats the best way I can confirm that they are the culprit? Also, should I replace both (if one is good, is it worth changing for no reason???)

Thanks.

He had a 135i so it was the only option.

BMW's warranty is 2 years. The catch is that you have to bring it into a BMW dealership and have the car diagnosed. If the solenoids are the culprit, BMW covers parts & labor including diagnosis. If it's something else, you pay for not only the dealership's diagnosis fee, but also new parts and labor (should you choose to have them do it).

To answer your second question, I'd replace both while I was in there. I do it with my spark plugs, injectors, etc. That's just me!

[umermariner]

Originally Posted by Dan@UnitedBMW

He had a 135i so it was the only option.

BMW's warranty is 2 years. The catch is that you have to bring it into a BMW dealership and have the car diagnosed. If the solenoids are the culprit, BMW covers parts & labor including diagnosis. If it's something else, you pay for not only the dealership's diagnosis fee, but also new parts and labor (should you choose to have them do it).

To answer your second question, I'd replace both while I was in there. I do it with my spark plugs, injectors, etc. That's just me!

I buy used cars, as soon as they get out of warranty . This car came out of warranty about a month before I bought it, so going to dealership is like the last last last resort for me
Spark plugs are not due till 80-90K... and what do you do on injectors? I have about 48K

[WPG D33Z]

Originally Posted by umermariner

Are you talking about N52 engine? If yes, it should be same for 5 series and 1 series. I have E60 with N52 engine (2006 530I), and the part numbers I am getting for it are two (11367560462 & 11367585425), I believe the 2nd one is correct, as got it from reliable dealership.

I also cleaned them along with oil change about 5 months ago, when I was getting error code 1554. The light went away .However; yesterday, got CEL again, and the error code is 1553. I am suspecting the same problem, however; this time I would like to change them. Both times, there is nothing noticeable other than the CEL light.

Question: I do not want to get/ replace them and find out that the light was for another reason. Whats the best way I can confirm that they are the culprit? Also, should I replace both (if one is good, is it worth changing for no reason???)

Thanks.

Clean them before you pay to replace them and then swap the intake and exhaust around. Made a night and day difference in my N52 X3 and haven't had any codes return, feels like I got an extra 50HP!

edit .. sorry saw you cleaned them. Swap the position of them and see if the problem follows from intake to exhaust and vice versa.

[S54dan]

Originally Posted by umermariner

I buy used cars, as soon as they get out of warranty . This car came out of warranty about a month before I bought it, so going to dealership is like the last last last resort for me
Spark plugs are not due till 80-90K... and what do you do on injectors? I have about 48K

Here in the shop we just replace what is faulty. So if it's 1 injector, 1 gets replaced. Send me a PM so we don't get off topic here in this thread

[umermariner]

Thanks guys...
Will update you soon . Planning to see the CEL for few days (fingers crossed, it will go away ).. then cleaning/ swapping, and then finally changing .
With the weather and work load, it may take couple of months