Dyno Read

[MuNkY6913]

I finally got her on the Dyno. i'm set up with an Injen short ram air intake, Berk Tech axle back race exhaust and JB4 stage 3. if you want to see the runs there on a friends you tube page. http://www.youtube.com/user/loesch8102/videos
i thought the numbers were pretty good for all the more i have done to it. any feedback questions comments or advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

[MuNkY6913]

the yellow is AFR, didnt notice its not labeled till right now.

[1speedbike]

That's really great! From what I know DYNOmite dynos are like Mustang dynos and would read lower than most dynojets. You have very healthy torque numbers for a low reading dyno with pretty much just a JB4 and light mods. Our cars always seem to put down more torque than HP tuned, so you'd have definitely breached 350 or even 360 HP on a dynojet I think... just for comparison to what others usually post from the dynojets. Impressive for no downpipes or meth.

[MuNkY6913]

Thanks for the input! I don't know much about other dynos. I wish there was an easy way to find out the crank hp. I think 345 hp to the wheels is a fair statement. I'm extremely happy with what the output is after 3 peices are bolted on. Looking to get downpipes and inter cooler but that's going to have to wait until I hit the lottery. Haha! Or probably next summer. This is my everyday driver so i don't want to have to deal with messing up the emissions crap.

[rader1]

Need a baseline run to really get any useful information out of a dyno sheet.

[int2str]

That torque curve looks pretty ragged to me. Does it drive alright?
Doesn't look like it holds the torque well and peaks very early. Can you log it and make sure it looks good?

[MuNkY6913]

I did a baseline run as well. Lines were still ragged. The numbers came out to around 280hp. Don't remember what the torque was but it was pretty much the same as what I've seen with other readouts of a stock 135i. I would think you would already know what it should be putting out stock. I logged a run on the JB4 software and sent it to Burger to look at that ragged line. The run was on map 5, the auto tuning map. He said because of the really hot intake temp the auto tuning kept backing off to compensate and reduce the knock. It runs great. Doesn't pulsate or anything like that. Burger said everything looks good. This was on pump 93 octane gas. They said that if I ran 100 octane it would help with the line and give a little more power. Still think its badass. Just wish there was an easy way to take those numbers and figure the crank hp.

[MuNkY6913]

Any one else out there with dyno read outs please post for comparison?

[int2str]

Originally Posted by MuNkY6913

The run was on map 5, the auto tuning map. He said because of the really hot intake temp the auto tuning kept backing off to compensate and reduce the knock.

I see a new intercooler in your future

This was on pump 93 octane gas.

If you were pulling timing due to intake temps with 93 Octant, I think you should get an FMIC sooner rather than later.

Here's my dyno chart on California 91 Octane (worst gas money can buy pretty much):


Notice how much longer my torque goes up than on your chart and how much smoother it builds and tapers off. The car is very driveable with this tune and strong throughout the revs.

Just wish there was an easy way to take those numbers and figure the crank hp.

Rear-wheel power is much more important than crank. Plus actual numbers are pretty meaningless. But if you insist:

Figure 15% drivetrain loss and calculate: <rear_hp> / 85 * 100.
So in your case 343 / 85 * 100 = 404hp.

[MuNkY6913]

Wow! That is really smooth. I wonder if a new fmic will actually make that gigantic of a difference. I thought our cars were supposed to max out torque early? Pretty new to this stuff so I'm not really sure. Wish I could come into the money for a fmic. It sucks being responsible.

[Dosturbos]

Originally Posted by MuNkY6913

Any one else out there with dyno read outs please post for comparison?

I am running a healthy stage 2 with DCI, AFE downpipes, Full exhaust, ETS intercooler, and ER charge pipe with Forge diverter valves.
I had a JB4 initially but went with Cobb because my old Subaru tuner is a Cobb Pro tuner. Check out the base line with a Cobb OTS map vs his "tuned" map.

Nice number for just intake and exhast!

[brusk]

I'll throw mine out there since it looks different than the others posted. A flatter torque curve.

[MuNkY6913]

I wish my read out was as smooth as those reads. Pretty excited about getting a fmic too! Got to start saving! hopefully that will help it smooth out. It runs good now and I don't race it on a track. I think when I get a fmic and downpipes I'm going to pay for a custom tune. Think it's worth the money for a custom tune?

[int2str]

Seeing that Cobb torque curve again makes me glad I switched to GIAC

Originally Posted by MuNkY6913

I wish my read out was as smooth as those reads.

Honestly, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Dynos differ, cars differ, conditions differ. If you say your car runs great, I wouldn't worry about what the graph looks like.

I only asked about those fluctuations because it would seem like you'd notice that while driving and also because I could only imagine that the ECU is pulling timing or having boost issues at those points. The curve just looks odd. But if the car runs fine and the logs look good, just enjoy your car!

I think when I get a fmic and downpipes I'm going to pay for a custom tune. Think it's worth the money for a custom tune?

No, I don't think so. The JB4 is flexible and tested and you should be able to pick a map that runs well with your car. Plus I think their support is pretty good.

Personally, I'm very glad I switch to GIAC. Compare your dyno chart and the Cobb ones posted here. Look how early your torque peaks. I had that before and it was no fun to drive on the autocross track or otherwise. Much happier with the new setup - much more "real world".

But again, don't sweat the dyno chart too much. It's much more important how well it drives and how it makes you feel.

[brusk]

Originally Posted by int2str

Seeing that Cobb torque curve again makes me glad I switched to GIAC



Honestly, I wouldn't worry too much about it. Dynos differ, cars differ, conditions differ. If you say your car runs great, I wouldn't worry about what the graph looks like.

I only asked about those fluctuations because it would seem like you'd notice that while driving and also because I could only imagine that the ECU is pulling timing or having boost issues at those points. The curve just looks odd. But if the car runs fine and the logs look good, just enjoy your car!



No, I don't think so. The JB4 is flexible and tested and you should be able to pick a map that runs well with your car. Plus I think their support is pretty good.

Personally, I'm very glad I switch to GIAC. Compare your dyno chart and the Cobb ones posted here. Look how early your torque peaks. I had that before and it was no fun to drive on the autocross track or otherwise. Much happier with the new setup - much more "real world".

But again, don't sweat the dyno chart too much. It's much more important how well it drives and how it makes you feel.

Actually I'm confused on that comment and how giac is tuning. Typically you want the flatest torque curve you can get it delivers flat smooth power at any RPM's, if anything that tune needs adjusted to not drop off so quickly. Flat torque curve gives more usable power to the gears and makes being in the right gear a little less important. Compare the torque on the GIAC at 2500 RPM vs. the Cobb's tune will get full boost and full torque instantly. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong here but the only benefit I can see with limiting the low end is controlling wheel spin at lower RPM's. If you lined up the two cars and did a 2nd gear roll at 2K rpm's the GIAC tuned car would be at a great disadvantage and most likely lose several car lengths while the torque was building.

[Dosturbos]

Originally Posted by MuNkY6913

I wish my read out was as smooth as those reads. Pretty excited about getting a fmic too! Got to start saving! hopefully that will help it smooth out. It runs good now and I don't race it on a track. I think when I get a fmic and downpipes I'm going to pay for a custom tune. Think it's worth the money for a custom tune?

I totally think it's worth it to get the custom tune. I grabbed an extra 60 torque and 40 horsepower to the wheels with the Custom tuned Cobb map. I even had the VANOS tweaked recently to get more top end power. Getting the car dialed in to your liking is the way to go.

[Dosturbos]

[QUOTE=int2str;12430214]Seeing that Cobb torque curve again makes me glad I switched to GIAC

You have a tuned N54 car, it's all about the torque with this motor. I don't care what chip/tune/mod you put on the car. Car is a neck snapper when tuned right. That's part of the fun. I'd go N/A M3 if I wanted linear smooth acceleration. It's so nice when you can feel the boost kick in, it's the best part of having a turbo car...not to mention two turbos.
I'm with Brusk, it's about kicking some ass off the line too, if you have the limited slip, man, bring that torque.

[int2str]

Originally Posted by brusk

Actually I'm confused on that comment and how giac is tuning. Typically you want the flatest torque curve you can get it delivers flat smooth power at any RPM's, if anything that tune needs adjusted to not drop off so quickly. Flat torque curve gives more usable power to the gears and makes being in the right gear a little less important. Compare the torque on the GIAC at 2500 RPM vs. the Cobb's tune will get full boost and full torque instantly.

Heh, to each his own I suppose.
I'm not going to argue one way over another. I'm simply glad I switched. I beat my nearest class rival at the last autocross by nearly a second, that's all I need to know.

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong here but the only benefit I can see with limiting the low end is controlling wheel spin at lower RPM's. If you lined up the two cars and did a 2nd gear roll at 2K rpm's the GIAC tuned car would be at a great disadvantage and most likely lose several car lengths while the torque was building.

I didn't build my car for 2nd gear roll-ons
Yet, with 360+ rwhp on 91oct., I certainly don't have to hide from one either.

[brusk]

Originally Posted by int2str

Heh, to each his own I suppose.
I'm not going to argue one way over another. I'm simply glad I switched. I beat my nearest class rival at the last autocross by nearly a second, that's all I need to know.



I didn't build my car for 2nd gear roll-ons
Yet, with 360+ rwhp on 91oct., I certainly don't have to hide from one either.

There's nothing to argue about your situation is not typical as you probably couldn't use instant torque like that in autocross so having it gradually build would probably help but in other situations where traction isn't a problem and you can use all the torque then flat would be the way to go.

[brusk]

Originally Posted by Dosturbos

I totally think it's worth it to get the custom tune. I grabbed an extra 60 torque and 40 horsepower to the wheels with the Custom tuned Cobb map. I even had the VANOS tweaked recently to get more top end power. Getting the car dialed in to your liking is the way to go.

That would be nice. Where did you have it done? How much does something like that cost? I need to find some time to start playing around with ATR.

[MuNkY6913]

I do like how it builds boost really quick. Ill probably dyno it again after I do any more mods to it. If the stock maps that come with the JB4 doesn't give me a smoother longer torque curve I'll think about getting a custom map done. Cause if I do more mods in going to have to start hitting up the track. I have the JB4 limiting boost in first and second gear anyways to reduce tire slip. Once up to speed I like being able to have instant push in third. thanks for all the comments guys.

[MuNkY6913]

O yeah what is VANOS?