Euro Header/Spipe Install Tips

[txz4]

Hello all, i just got through with my Euro header ,Euro S-pipe and o2 relocation.

To find a great detailed write up use billswebspace instructions, its the bible of working on the M-coupe.

Seen here
http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWZ4MS...stallation.htm

Yes there is room to relocate the rear o2s WITHOUT having to extend. To get an idea of the o2 relocation check here:
http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthrea...=151391&page=3

The removal of the U.S. headers may be the most horrible thing ive done in a garage. this can be helped by taking a few steps.

1) buy nitrile gloves, i didnt, and YOU WILL get cut if you dont.
2) A 1/4 drive socket wrench and a 3 inch wobble head extension and maybe even the bendable extension will be the perfect tool for the job. It will take you hours if you use a 3/8 drive wrench like i did. I promptly went out and in the morning purchase a 1/4 drive with various extensions for the re-install.
3)wear a long sleeve shirt. your forearms will look like you were trying to kill yourself if you dont.
4) you need zip-ties and electrical tape to clean up and keep the o2 wires out of the way. remember they HAVE to be routed on the driver side otherwise there is not enough slack.
5) go to Harbor Freight and buy a whole mess of wobble extensions for every drive size. you get three for every drive size at harbor freight for around 15 bucks in one package.
6)2-7mm 1.0 pitch pinch nuts. Your going to pull at least a few head studs, you need these to get the old nut off, and the stud back in.
7) To mark the o2s, i simply used athletic type, electric tape will work too. Wrote an "A" on two pieces of tape and mark accordingly and repeat the process for "B" etc. Far easier than using the proper markings, this way, its almost impossible to screw up.
EDIT 8) go back a week or two later and re-tighten all of the header nuts, some will be loose because of the heat cycling, i had a small leak that this addressed.

Everything else in the billswebspace instructions are spot on.

[txz4]

For the S-pipe install. I couldnt find any instructions and didnt take pictures but i will walk you through it. You DO NOT have to remove the rear chassis brace if you have a friend to help. This s-pipe install assumes you have the headers already installed and unbolted from the s-pipe and also have relocated the rear o2s and marked and disconnected the releases so that the rear o2s and egt are now loose. Install these on the new s-pipe before starting the install.

1)Unbolt the Muffler cans and pull the screws out, set aside.
2) find the x-Pipe, their is a heat shield that has to be removed first. Their are 7 small screws i think, holding the heat shield to the x-pipe securing plate. remove those 7 screws
3)under the heat shield is a support that holds the X-pipe to the car. there are for large support bolts that you should loosen but leave in. Then there are two smaller bolts to completely remove and 2 small nuts you can completely remove. Slowly remove those first four chassis bolts and let the s-pipe go to the floor and the x-pipe will rest on the chassis support brace.
4)now you can access those 2 bolts on the top of the s-pipe flange that you couldn't access while it was up. remove the 6 bolts connecting the s-pipe to the x-pipe and remove the s-pipe.
5) its best to install the the rear o2s now to the new s-pipe.
6) put the new s-pipe up to the x-pipe and fasten, this will be made easier by putting some blocks of wood to hold the s-pipe level with the hanging x-pipe.
NOTEO NOT route the cable from the o2s in the hole created where the s-pipe meets the x-pipe, i did and it eats to much cable length to reconnect the o2 cables.
7)now that the s-pipe and x pipe are connected its time to get the s-pipe connected to the headers. this is where your friend really comes into play. have a friend go towards the front of the car. from the rear, pull back the x-pipe as far as you can to give your friend in the front enough room to s-pipe the s-pipe over the headers.
8)work back in reverse order. once done remember to align muffler tips and reconnect the o2s and egt cables.
9) you just changed the s-pipe out!!

[Jumbosock]

txz4-
There is even less space in an E46M3 to take off the same headers. That was definitely difficult (did it twice) . However, by the second time I learned that with every nut there is a perfect angle to remove it fairly easily. Sometimes from up top, sometimes from the bottom... sometimes with an extension, sometimes without... sometimes from in front of the control arm, sometimes from behind it... etc. When I do my install in the next few months I may document the correct approach for each nut to make things much easier for others wanting to tackle the job.

[txz4]

Originally Posted by Jumbosock

txz4-
There is even less space in an E46M3 to take off the same headers. That was definitely difficult (did it twice) . However, by the second time I learned that with every nut there is a perfect angle to remove it fairly easily. Sometimes from up top, sometimes from the bottom... sometimes with an extension, sometimes without... sometimes from in front of the control arm, sometimes from behind it... etc. When I do my install in the next few months I may document the correct approach for each nut to make things much easier for others wanting to tackle the job.

Yea, the install was SO EASY with only a 3 inch wobble extension and a 1/4 drive ratchet. I wasted so much time on the removal with clearly the wrong tools I.e. 3/8s wrench...

[johanness]

Nice write up! To be clear, you do UNFOLD the wires and re-route them from the ECU bundle, securing them as u go above the shroud/heat shield. The EXTENDING which is not necessary - is cutting and adding length. There can be some confusion. Glad u got it all done. Codes?

[txz4]

Originally Posted by johanness

Nice write up! To be clear, you do UNFOLD the wires and re-route them from the ECU bundle, securing them as u go above the shroud/heat shield. The EXTENDING which is not necessary - is cutting and adding length. There can be some confusion. Glad u got it all done. Codes?

No codes. I haven't had a chance to drive it but once though. Unfold is a little misleading, though i guess its the best way to describe it. maybe un-bundle?

i couldn't get enough slack to secure it behind the heat shield, but i was able to secure it to the very bottom of the heat shield and away from the cats.

[txz4]

Just updated the first post. If you have any header or cat questions that you cant seem to find the answers to, this should help.