yet another r-comp track tire question

[sandwood]

I'm debating what to do about tires and would welcome constructive input. I know some of these issues have been commented on before but...

I've done 4 track days at summit point on the oem 18s with oem PS2s. I would say I am an low-intermediate driver - I'm signed off for solo (technically the advanced group) but still have a lot to learn. just from other people posting on this site, advanced M3 drivers apparently are up to 10mph faster than me on the main straight - seems like a lot to me.

I plan on selling the car by March of 2012. I have two track days this year, and hopefully 4-5 more next year. The original PS2s may survive that (I use 19" wheels normally, and also have dedicated 18" winter wheels), but barely and would need replacing prior to selling the car.

so, does it make sense for me to take off the oem PS2s, store them until I'm ready to sell the car, and get dedicated track rubber on the 18s in the meantime? If I do, I'm inclined to get Toyo RA1s in 245/275 fitment because I have a trusted local supplier/installer.

I do not want to get another set of wheels, so whatever I get must work on the oem 18s.

I don't want to cover up my deficiencies as a driver, so maybe it makes more sense to use up the old PS2s and just replace them with more high performance summer tires for the additional track time next year? Getting the RA1s would be cheaper, however.

Thoughts?

[Gearhead999s]

Can you still get New RA's in that sizing?I am running a square 275/35 18 setup and I am very pleased with it.

[sandwood]

my local guy said he has them in those sizes. I gather they are a good compromise track tire. are they communicative? or do they grip, grip, grip, and then break loose without warning? (I know that's generally more how r-comps work)

[Gearhead999s]

Originally Posted by sandwood

my local guy said he has them in those sizes. I gather they are a good compromise track tire. are they communicative? or do they grip, grip, grip, and then break loose without warning? (I know that's generally more how r-comps work)

Nah!Very easy to drive on with lots of communication on what they are doing.They recover much better than the 888's ever did and they last very well.

[sandwood]

did you have them shaved?

[Gearhead999s]

Originally Posted by sandwood

did you have them shaved?

Ran them from full tread depth with no issues and I am quite aggresive

[sandwood]

thanks for the info. seems like getting the ra1s will be more cost effective and probably more fun.

[mastek]

I'm running BFG R1 265/285 @ the track = love it

[bigjae1976]

I think I am in the same category as the OP. I've been constantly advised to not go to R-comps for a couple of reasons.

The primary reason being the extra grip from R comps tend to mask mistakes and could lead to bad habits.

[M3V8Driver]

Originally Posted by sandwood

just from other people posting on this site, advanced M3 drivers apparently are up to 10mph faster than me on the main straight - seems like a lot to me.

Based on heresay or data acquisition? I believe that one shouldn't even pay attention to the speedo... if you're aware of how fast you're going, then you're not going your fastest. Think go-karts... no speedos. You drive by feel, instinct, and feedback from the kart.

I'm inclined to get Toyo RA1s in 245/275 fitment because I have a trusted local supplier/installer.

Not a bad choice, but they will overheat ifdriven full tread depth, especially the first time out. They will get very slippery and you'll think you made a bad choice... until the next time you run them a week or more later

The R888's are very similar, but with less tendency to overheat the first time out. They will not last quite as long as the RA1's either, but on a 3700 pound car, don't expect much more than 2-4 useful weekends out of either model. Each model has a different sweet spot. Given each model shaved, I think the RA-1's will produce better results the first time out. The R888's will be better the 2nd or 3rd times out, and the RA-1s will be better at their end (they are more consistent during their usefule life cycle). Finally, the RA-1s are probably a better value because of the latter, and last I checked, they cost a little less too. Hope this helps. Some other tires to consider fall into the non-R-compound catagory, but can still produce consistent feedback while lasting longer than R-comps, such as those by Dunlop, Hankook, and Nitto.

[sandwood]

Originally Posted by M3V8Driver

Based on heresay or data acquisition? I believe that one shouldn't even pay attention to the speedo... if you're aware of how fast you're going, then you're not going your fastest. Think go-karts... no speedos. You drive by feel, instinct, and feedback from the kart.

definitely based on hearsay. but it's not that hard to look at your speedo toward the end of the straight, no? I kind of agree with you about not paying it much mind, but it's another frame of reference.

Originally Posted by M3V8Driver

Not a bad choice, but they will overheat ifdriven full tread depth, especially the first time out. They will get very slippery and you'll think you made a bad choice... until the next time you run them a week or more later

The R888's are very similar, but with less tendency to overheat the first time out. They will not last quite as long as the RA1's either, but on a 3700 pound car, don't expect much more than 2-4 useful weekends out of either model. Each model has a different sweet spot. Given each model shaved, I think the RA-1's will produce better results the first time out. The R888's will be better the 2nd or 3rd times out, and the RA-1s will be better at their end (they are more consistent during their usefule life cycle). Finally, the RA-1s are probably a better value because of the latter, and last I checked, they cost a little less too. Hope this helps. Some other tires to consider fall into the non-R-compound catagory, but can still produce consistent feedback while lasting longer than R-comps, such as those by Dunlop, Hankook, and Nitto.

thanks for your input. there's been some negative commentary on this site about the 888s not lasting on our cars - perhaps bc of weight. nittos and hankooks seem like good value for money.

[M3V8Driver]

Originally Posted by sandwood

definitely based on hearsay. but it's not that hard to look at your speedo toward the end of the straight, no? I kind of agree with you about not paying it much mind, but it's another frame of reference.

That's probably the worst time to look at it. You should be focusing on braking and turn in for the apex. Your fastest speed should be right before you hit the brakes (if you don't coast before doing so). So, rather than use a particular speed at the end of a straight to gauge a tire's performance, I suggest using average speed per lap, but you'll need a method to time the lap.

[sandwood]

I hear you. obviously I check before entering the braking zone. and actually I do tend to coast a little before entering the braking zone. at this point I'm more focused on working on smoothness of transitions than lap times or ultimate speed. my comment about others' speeds on the straight was only because it made me think about cornering/entry speed before the straight and also about how r-comps might effect that for me. anyway, good input, thanks.

[smmmurf]

RA-1's are incredibly easy to drive. They have a lot of slip before they let go.

However, if you have only done 4 track days, I recommend sticking to HP street tires like an Advan AD08, Dunlop Z1, or Bridgestone RE-11. More grip won't make it any easier to get "smooth." In fact, less grip is the prescription. I have driven everything on track from a formula car to a kart to a Spec Miata to an M3 to a Toyota Yaris. The Toyota Yaris had the least grip and required me to be the smoothest of any of those cars!

[autospiel]

I'm running the same tires as Mastek (staggered BFG R1s on 18" rims bought from M3V8Driver) for dedicated track use. I'm running ~10 HPDEs/year and either instruct or run in the advanced group. The street tires double as rain tires at the track, if need be.

In your case I'd run the PS2s till they die, then ask your dealer for a matched set of "take offs" if you don't have that long remaining till you sell your car. You'll spend a small fraction of the cost of new tires (enough to go through several sets of "take offs" if taken to its extreme). I'd concentrate instead on honing your driving technique with whatever equipment you have.

[sandwood]

good idea about the take-offs (or buying used here). thanks for that.