Reduced Power Engine Malfunction - Boost Pressure too low

[ncmoore12]

Hey Everyone:

While accelerating hard, I sometimes get the following codes from Carly:

002F24 - Charge air cooling, energy operation
002F29 - Charge air cooling, energy operation
0030FF - Boost pressure control, boost pressure too low
00310B - Boost pressure control 2, plausibility

^I believe the bold ones are the culprits

So i assume this is the vacuum lines based on previous posts? is that the correct assumption should get a mechanic to inspect it? or should i pull the cover off and try to identify any lines or connectors that look like they have any damage or residue near them?

I am mainly unsure how to find the leak if that is the main problem, do I need a fog machine or something?

Also for replacement parts, is there a solid choice is it continuing to go with the OEM rubber lines or replacing them with higher temp silicon lines?

Didn't really find a DIY guide for it, but is at easy as removing the engine plastic cover and replacing the back lines, and for the front removing the air filter?

Thanks in advance!

So awakening a new thread on this since the below link became hard to follow, link below for reference:

https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show...1260684&page=4

[Dawgz]

I would replace all those vacuum lines first, inspecting them is cumbersome and you may not be able to tell anyway as a little rip is very difficult to catch.

Go with a high temp withstanding 4mm silicone hose.

[ncmoore12]

Originally Posted by Dawgz

I would replace all those vacuum lines first, inspecting them is cumbersome and you may not be able to tell anyway as a little rip is very difficult to catch.

Go with a high temp withstanding 4mm silicone hose.

Sounds good thanks! How much do you think I should get? 10 ft seems like enough?

[chemist_slime]

Originally Posted by ncmoore12

Sounds good thanks! How much do you think I should get? 10 ft seems like enough?

I just replaced all the vacuum lines on my x5 35d including the ones under the intake manifold. The only one I did not replace was the one that goes down to the lower turbo which I couldn't get to. That one also just so happens to be fairy long.

I bought my kit here:

https://www.tunemyeuro.com/cloth-cov...i-bmw-engines/

It comes in 5m which should allow you to replace all those near the top turbo and those connected to the vacuum reservoir, but not enough to replace those under the manifold. If you're doing the entire car, you'd need 10m which might have a little left over for error. All my lines were cut to factory lengths + 1cm to give some wiggle room, btw.

Edit: Ah, didn't realize you have an x5m, above was for an x5 35d.

[Sophisticated Redneck]

Originally Posted by ncmoore12

Hey Everyone:

While accelerating hard, I sometimes get the following codes from Carly:

002F24 - Charge air cooling, energy operation
002F29 - Charge air cooling, energy operation
0030FF - Boost pressure control, boost pressure too low
00310B - Boost pressure control 2, plausibility

^I believe the bold ones are the culprits

So i assume this is the vacuum lines based on previous posts? is that the correct assumption should get a mechanic to inspect it? or should i pull the cover off and try to identify any lines or connectors that look like they have any damage or residue near them?

I am mainly unsure how to find the leak if that is the main problem, do I need a fog machine or something?

Also for replacement parts, is there a solid choice is it continuing to go with the OEM rubber lines or replacing them with higher temp silicon lines?

Didn't really find a DIY guide for it, but is at easy as removing the engine plastic cover and replacing the back lines, and for the front removing the air filter?

Thanks in advance!

So awakening a new thread on this since the below link became hard to follow, link below for reference:

https://www.xbimmers.com/forums/show...1260684&page=4

Quite a few things could cause this (I am not including the obvious loose intake piping as a cause I am assuming you already ruled that out):

Worn Wastegates
Cracked CCV tubes
busted Vacuum lines
Worn out Vacuum pump
faulty pressure converters
leaky diverter valves

You are in the right track and I would start off by replacing all the vacuum lines because its pretty easy and eliminate that variable. Next I would check your wastegates, if they are pretty loose then you can adjust them somewhat before you have to have them rebuilt. After that if you still have the errors check out your CCV tubes.

The M has them running all over the place and the lower CCV tubes that run to the lower intakes are SO MUCH FUN to replace. Make sure not to have any young kids around if you replace them or the profanity they hear from you will warp their fragile minds...

After that comes replacing the pressure converters and then the Diverter Valves