Hitch question

[Alos]

I have read through most of the prior forums and wanted to inquire what are people's thoughts about U-Hauls hitches ? I have m sport 2017. I read about invisihitch even spoke to them but reviews are mixed. I heard U-Haul are more stable thought they have to slightly trim bumper, oem is not worth it. What do you all think and what is more stable to get ? Not planning on returning my vehicle so don't mind minor cut. Thank you in advance for your responses!

[jch1511]

Draw Tite hitch is a straight bolt on install for regular or m sport line, no trimming required. Also, it allows you to keep the existing metal bumper re enforce bar. Curt hitch does not allow that. To me, that's a biggie.

[Alos]

Originally Posted by jch1511

Draw Tite hitch is a straight bolt on install for regular or m sport line, no trimming required. Also, it allows you to keep the existing metal bumper re enforce bar. Curt hitch does not allow that. To me, that's a biggie.

Thank you I will look into it. I agree with you on that point as well

[artem123]

Reese Towpower 44590 is a bolt-on install. You keep original re-enforcement bar, and no bumper trimming. I am happy.

[Maverik259]

Originally Posted by Alos

Thank you I will look into it. I agree with you on that point as well

You don't need the little "support" bar when you have the tow bar. It does that job and then some. It's much more stout.

[jch1511]

Originally Posted by artem123

Reese Towpower 44590 is a bolt-on install. You keep original re-enforcement bar, and no bumper trimming. I am happy.

+1, same hitch as draw tite, different name.

[artem123]

Originally Posted by jch1511

+1, same hitch as draw tite, different name.

It is virtually the same))

[Alos]

Originally Posted by artem123

Reese Towpower 44590 is a bolt-on install. You keep original re-enforcement bar, and no bumper trimming. I am happy.

I googled it. For some reason saying not compatible with my car. Hmm

[X Mon™]

The info is in this thread https://f15.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...1508166&page=2

I have the Curt, WGXDZ has the Reese on his MSport

[HydroStream6]

I have a 2014 F15 M-Sport. I'll probably go with the Draw-Tite as it looks decent and doesn't require cutting of the bumper. My question is on the wiring. What all do I need? I know my vehicle has the "tow preparation" option, which I believe just makes the wiring a little simpler. But what harness/modules do I need? Thanks!

[Mdlooker]

I have to get a hitch as well. I have a 2018 X6; thought I'd head up to BMW to ask a few warranty questions since the truck is under a year old. Apparently BMW won't install outside parts (knew that already), and of anything goes quirky with the lights or anything electrical from the install of the commercial wiring harness, the warranty stands risk of being voided because it was modified from an outside source. So a towing hitch/wiring harness package that was for $262 has risen to over 1K

[Alos]

Originally Posted by Mdlooker

I have to get a hitch as well. I have a 2018 X6; thought I'd head up to BMW to ask a few warranty questions since the truck is under a year old. Apparently BMW won't install outside parts (knew that already), and of anything goes quirky with the lights or anything electrical from the install of the commercial wiring harness, the warranty stands risk of being voided because it was modified from an outside source. So a towing hitch/wiring harness package that was for $262 has risen to over 1K

Uhaul was telling me they use quick connect. No cutting of wires etc. and it won't void bmw warranty. Makes it more interesting.

[X Mon™]

Originally Posted by HydroStream6

I have a 2014 F15 M-Sport. I'll probably go with the Draw-Tite as it looks decent and doesn't require cutting of the bumper. My question is on the wiring. What all do I need? I know my vehicle has the "tow preparation" option, which I believe just makes the wiring a little simpler. But what harness/modules do I need? Thanks!

From the linked thread:
Hitch of your choosing
1x 82 71 2 349 500 - Electronics Installation Kit, Towing
1x 71 60 6 884 357 - Control Unit
8x 07 11 9 906 050 - Hex Nut
8x 07 14 7 293 278 - Rivet, Black or 07 14 7 391 324 - Rivet, White

And then some programming work. I prefer to add 3AC to Options List and then switch the power folding options back to fixed. Other folks code K235 as an HO-Wort

[ferrarif1]

Originally Posted by X Mon™

From the linked thread:
Hitch of your choosing
1x 82 71 2 349 500 - Electronics Installation Kit, Towing
1x 71 60 6 884 357 - Control Unit
8x 07 11 9 906 050 - Hex Nut
8x 07 14 7 293 278 - Rivet, Black or 07 14 7 391 324 - Rivet, White

And then some programming work. I prefer to add 3AC to Options List and then switch the power folding options back to fixed. Other folks code K235 as an HO-Wort

Why do you prefer the 3AC method?

[Shredder66]

Originally Posted by Alos

I have read through most of the prior forums and wanted to inquire what are people's thoughts about U-Hauls hitches ? I have m sport 2017. I read about invisihitch even spoke to them but reviews are mixed. I heard U-Haul are more stable thought they have to slightly trim bumper, oem is not worth it. What do you all think and what is more stable to get ? Not planning on returning my vehicle so don't mind minor cut. Thank you in advance for your responses!

I have a 2016 X5M and just had the Uhaul hitched installed. Hitch with install was just under $500. They did not need to cut my bumper at all. Originally, they thought they might need to a little. Looks amazing. Looks like it came from factory. Wiring about $200.

[Alos]

Originally Posted by Shredder66

I have a 2016 X5M and just had the Uhaul hitched installed. Hitch with install was just under $500. They did not need to cut my bumper at all. Originally, they thought they might need to a little. Looks amazing. Looks like it came from factory. Wiring about $200.

Thank you. What did you do wiring wise ? Since their tow package includes wiring etc and it's like 50 bucks ? Looks great. Which one did they put on for you?

[TOPEC]

Originally Posted by jch1511

Draw Tite hitch is a straight bolt on install for regular or m sport line, no trimming required. Also, it allows you to keep the existing metal bumper re enforce bar. Curt hitch does not allow that. To me, that's a biggie.

Just a FYI, i have the UHAUL/CURT hitch installed by myself. A few misconceptions floating around regarding the curt hitch.

1: no bumper trimming is required, MAYBE the 2014MY only, i believe 2015MY+ already has the bumper cut out, my bumper (2016MY) already has an oval shape cut out to clear any hitch. look at the following pic for reference from google

2: anyone who does the hitch install themselves will realize how much MORE beefier a hitch is when comparing to the oem bumper beam/re-enforcement bar, which is stamped thin steel and bent with me pushing down on it.

TLR, the oem bumper beam is thin and light, dont bother looking for hitches that specifically keeps the bumper beam in place. i will gladly replace it with any aftermarket hitches, WAY more sturdy.

[Shredder66]

Originally Posted by Alos

Thank you. What did you do wiring wise ? Since their tow package includes wiring etc and it's like 50 bucks ? Looks great. Which one did they put on for you?

When I did the hitch they didn't have the wiring so I have to go back to have that done.

[X Mon™]

Originally Posted by ferrarif1

Why do you prefer the 3AC method?

Because I was able to use the NCD/CAFD compare tool to look at all the changes it propagated, where I can't do that with changing the HO-Wort.

I would still be willing to try the comparo between the 3AC and the HO-Wort methods if someone wants to send over their CAFD files from an HO-Wort coded car.

[Alos]

Originally Posted by Shredder66

When I did the hitch they didn't have the wiring so I have to go back to have that done.

Did you use their wiring or special king? Their kit seems stable, also ?200. They quoted me like 5 and change (see pic) install with everything. Am I missing something[IMG][/IMG]

[ferrarif1]

Originally Posted by X Mon™

Because I was able to use the NCD/CAFD compare tool to look at all the changes it propagated, where I can't do that with changing the HO-Wort.

I would still be willing to try the comparo between the 3AC and the HO-Wort methods if someone wants to send over their CAFD files from an HO-Wort coded car.

Both methods should work but ISTA takes the HO-WORT strategy and since we have no folding hitch (3AC) in the US, it seems like the right thing to do if you have the choice.

I will caution that ISTA codes a lot more than just AAG and PDC that is documented in the linked thread. In particular, the ISTA/K235 method communicates with the transmission when there is a trailer attached to modify shift points. With the 3AC method, I would VO code the entire car to make sure everything is in sync and you will likely end up with the same outcome as ISTA/K235 but will of course have to code out the folding options for the hitch.

[Mdlooker]

Originally Posted by Alos

Uhaul was telling me they use quick connect. No cutting of wires etc. and it won't void bmw warranty. Makes it more interesting.

Can't, service made it clear they won't service my vehicle in the future under warranty for any electrical issues should they arise. I definitely don't want to play around with that.