Snapped off wheel lug bolt in hub

[xcusem3]

Hi guys, over the weekend I was washing my car and I noticed that I was missing a lug bolt on the front passengers side of the car! After carefully getting the car home I noticed that he bolt had snapped off inside the hub and I am nervous that additional bolts will do the same. I'm running a 12mm spacer up front but have asked the shop to remove all spacers around the car and bring it back to stock.

Anyone had this happen before? Is it possible to drill out the remaining part of the bolt inside the hub and without damaging the hub??

[deansbimmer]

No big deal. Drill and remove it. You can do it yourself in a few minutes with a tool like this, which any shop should have on hand. FYI your wheel isn't going to fall off just because one lug is missing.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01925A-...xtractor&psc=1

[xcusem3]

Originally Posted by deansbimmer

No big deal. Drill and remove it. You can do it yourself in a few minutes with a tool like this, which any shop should have on hand. FYI your wheel isn't going to fall off just because one lug is missing.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01925A-...ctor&psc=1

Thanks for the link, actually two are snapped off when I went to check the remainder of the bolts, when I put some minor pressure like 2-3lbs on the second bolt it snapped right away

[dparm]

Are you using OEM parts, or is this an aftermarket wheel/bolt setup?

[xcusem3]

Originally Posted by dparm

Are you using OEM parts, or is this an aftermarket wheel/bolt setup?

Stock zcp wheels with MS spacers and bolts, nothing fancy and out of the ordinary

[dparm]

Originally Posted by xcusem3

Stock zcp wheels with MS spacers and bolts, nothing fancy and out of the ordinary

I would talk to MS about those bolts. Might be a bad batch or something.

[msan]

Just curious about the lug bolts strength. Are they stamped 10.9 on the bold head? I always buy H$R spacers and bolts because they are 10.9 and made in Germany.

[JDM_CL9]

What torque setting are you using when tightening your wheel bolts?

[GMWNashville]

Only time ive seen them snap is due to overtorque

[xcusem3]

Originally Posted by JDM_CL9

What torque setting are you using when tightening your wheel bolts?

I torqued them down to roughly 35ftlbs so I don't think over tightening them was the issue. Shop said they can't repair the hub and have to replace it.. not good at all!

[msan]

Originally Posted by xcusem3

I torqued them down to roughly 35ftlbs so I don't think over tightening them was the issue. Shop said they can't repair the hub and have to replace it.. not good at all!

Should be 88ft lbs

[KingFishy]

They were loose. Tight bolts don't snap. Replace all bolts that were torqued to 35ft/lbs immediately.

[XKxRome0ox]

Originally Posted by xcusem3

I torqued them down to roughly 35ftlbs so I don't think over tightening them was the issue. Shop said they can't repair the hub and have to replace it.. not good at all!

i think 35 ft/lb might be when you are installing wheel STUDS to the hub

for wheel bolts (as well as wheel lugs for the studs), they should be torqued at 88 ft/lb

[tom @ eas]

Originally Posted by GMWNashville

Only time ive seen them snap is due to overtorque

Or driving on lugs that are not properly torqued/loose. Replace if unsure to be on the safe side.

[drrust]

Under torquing fasteners leads to fatigue failures.

https://www.asminternational.org/doc...mp17208p18.pdf

You likely need to replace all of your lug nuts, even the ones that did not fail (yet).

If you can post a picture of a failed surface, this mode of failure can be verified. I suspect there will be a large area that is flatter (indication of fatigue).

[xcusem3]

Hi all, I had to replace the entire hub it was unrepairable. We were unable to successfully drill out the old stud, it came downs to the studs being a few years old and they just failed. All are replaced now, spacers removed and back to stock. I mislead you on the torque I put onto the bolts, they were all at ~80ftlbs so torque was not an issue

[JDM_CL9]

Originally Posted by xcusem3

Hi all, I had to replace the entire hub it was unrepairable. We were unable to successfully drill out the old stud, it came downs to the studs being a few years old and they just failed. All are replaced now, spacers removed and back to stock. I mislead you on the torque I put onto the bolts, they were all at ~80ftlbs so torque was not an issue

I have never heard of wheel bolts or studs being "too old" and failed? If that's the case - the wheel studs on my 1981 Cadillac are just about fail and break at any moment?

Not sure where you're getting this information from.

[BayE30]

Originally Posted by JDM_CL9

I have never heard of wheel bolts or studs being "too old" and failed? If that's the case - the wheel studs on my 1981 Cadillac are just about fail and break at any moment?

Not sure where you're getting this information from.

common knowledge that wheel stud conversions are a wear item. That being said i have had my stud conversion on my e30 for about 8 years, but that car has only done 5k miles in 6 years, and is stored inside.

On a daily driver its recommended to change every 2-3 years, on a track car probably more often depending on use.

[JDM_CL9]

Originally Posted by SFCM3

common knowledge that wheel stud conversions are a wear item. That being said i have had my stud conversion on my e30 for about 8 years, but that car has only done 5k miles in 6 years, and is stored inside.

On a daily driver its recommended to change every 2-3 years, on a track car probably more often depending on use.

We're not talking about a wheel stud conversion here. OP is using wheel bolts... And if you're implying that all wheel studs and wheel bolts are indeed a wear item, I don't see this being documented as part of regular maintenance on a regular road vehicle.

If you are tracking your car then I agree you should be replacing or upgrading your wheel studs/bolts due to the extra stress.

[msan]

Originally Posted by xcusem3

Hi all, I had to replace the entire hub it was unrepairable. We were unable to successfully drill out the old stud, it came downs to the studs being a few years old and they just failed. All are replaced now, spacers removed and back to stock. I mislead you on the torque I put onto the bolts, they were all at ~80ftlbs so torque was not an issue

What is stamped on the lug bolt head? 10.9? or 10?

[dparm]

Originally Posted by xcusem3

Hi all, I had to replace the entire hub it was unrepairable. We were unable to successfully drill out the old stud, it came downs to the studs being a few years old and they just failed. All are replaced now, spacers removed and back to stock. I mislead you on the torque I put onto the bolts, they were all at ~80ftlbs so torque was not an issue

Per my earlier post, contact the manufacturer. Those bolts should not have broken like that.

I have only seen that from overtorquing, often from morons at wheel/tire shops not checking the spec on their wrench or just using an impact gun and smashing them down to 200.

[Scharbag]

Originally Posted by SFCM3

common knowledge that wheel stud conversions are a wear item. That being said i have had my stud conversion on my e30 for about 8 years, but that car has only done 5k miles in 6 years, and is stored inside.

On a daily driver its recommended to change every 2-3 years, on a track car probably more often depending on use.

I disagree that a stud conversions are a wear item. If installed properly, stud conversions are equal to factory studs. I have put 10 racing seasons on a 318is with studs and have never removed/repaired/replaced a single stud or lug.

If you have other information, please share with the community.

Cheers,