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      03-29-2018, 04:48 AM   #1
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So I'm fairly knowledgeable on engine tuning and performance, but fairly ignorant about suspension and suspension tuning.
I had my 2012 135 in for service recently and mentioned a cyclical shimmy I've been experiencing lately with my winter tires.

End result is they said my tires were unevenly worn (scalloped). My research says worn shocks and struts are a common cause.

Also my research is indicating the shimmy might be related to my front control arms and/or bearings?

My car is a daily driver, never tracked, but we do have some rough roads up here in New England. Is it likely that my stock (other than white line inserts) suspension is wearing out by 80k Miles?
What's likely to need replacing/refreshing around this time?
I mean I know shocks need to be replaced periodically, but what beyond that? Bearings, bushings, control arms...?


Thanks in advance.
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      03-29-2018, 06:10 AM   #2
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I had the same issue on a ford focus I had in college. I replaced the rear struts and it solved the problem. But just to be sure I would go have an alignment done too.
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      03-29-2018, 07:23 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtjosh View Post
I had the same issue on a ford focus I had in college. I replaced the rear struts and it solved the problem. But just to be sure I would go have an alignment done too.
Yeah, I actually get an alignment twice a year - every time I switch from summer wheel/tires to winter wheel/tires.
I'm switching back to summers next week.
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      03-29-2018, 08:09 AM   #4
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Scalloping tires is caused by alignment. Also, many tires scallop no matter what the alignment is. There are many tires, like the Pirrelli Scorpion etc, that I have ever seen worn evenly.

What kind of tire are you using?
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      03-29-2018, 08:47 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Scalloping tires is caused by alignment. Also, many tires scallop no matter what the alignment is. There are many tires, like the Pirrelli Scorpion etc, that I have ever seen worn evenly.

What kind of tire are you using?
Blizzak LM-25 (runflats) I like runflats for winter - there's nothing worse than being on the side of the road trying to change a tire in a snow storm. It sucks and is wickedly dangerous.
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      03-29-2018, 01:01 PM   #6
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At 80k I am sure your suspension is tired. Refresh with new shocks atleast
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      03-29-2018, 01:44 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech View Post
Scalloping tires is caused by alignment. Also, many tires scallop no matter what the alignment is. There are many tires, like the Pirrelli Scorpion etc, that I have ever seen worn evenly.

What kind of tire are you using?
Blizzak LM-25 (runflats) I like runflats for winter - there's nothing worse than being on the side of the road trying to change a tire in a snow storm. It sucks and is wickedly dangerous.
No experience with that exact tire, but I see many scalloped Blizzaks, especially if they don't have the multi cell compound.
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      03-30-2018, 12:03 PM   #8
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I doubt your socks are totally shot at only 80k. Mine finally blew at 160k but were fine before that. I'd first point you towards the front control arms. I had a shimmy going on, even with brand new tires, and my dad said that those were the root of all the shimmies in his former E39, which has a very similar suspension setup to the 1'er. So, we upgraded to M units and all was fixed. The M arms may also fix uneven front tire wear because the bushings deflect much less under loads and they add a hair of negative camber (fixes outside edge wear on the tires). A very worthwhile upgrade, IMHO. Good luck!
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      03-30-2018, 12:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
I doubt your socks are totally shot at only 80k. Mine finally blew at 160k but were fine before that. I'd first point you towards the front control arms. I had a shimmy going on, even with brand new tires, and my dad said that those were the root of all the shimmies in his former E39, which has a very similar suspension setup to the 1'er. So, we upgraded to M units and all was fixed. The M arms may also fix uneven front tire wear because the bushings deflect much less under loads and they add a hair of negative camber (fixes outside edge wear on the tires). A very worthwhile upgrade, IMHO. Good luck!
Yes, my research has led me to the same place for the shimmy, and M3 arms are at or near the top of the list. I don't feel like my shocks are shot, but that they may be "tired" as one other poster suggested, and I've always thought about a suspension upgrade anyway.

While I have my suspension apart, my understanding is that's the best time to do the RSFBs.
I already have Whiteline inserts (and I LOVE what they brought to the car), but they're nearly 50k miles old.
Does anyone think it worthwhile to replace them with actual new bushings?
Do the inserts wear over time?
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      03-30-2018, 12:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris_flies View Post
I doubt your socks are totally shot at only 80k. Mine finally blew at 160k but were fine before that. I'd first point you towards the front control arms. I had a shimmy going on, even with brand new tires, and my dad said that those were the root of all the shimmies in his former E39, which has a very similar suspension setup to the 1'er. So, we upgraded to M units and all was fixed. The M arms may also fix uneven front tire wear because the bushings deflect much less under loads and they add a hair of negative camber (fixes outside edge wear on the tires). A very worthwhile upgrade, IMHO. Good luck!
Yes, my research has led me to the same place for the shimmy, and M3 arms are at or near the top of the list. I don't feel like my shocks are shot, but that they may be "tired" as one other poster suggested, and I've always thought about a suspension upgrade anyway.

While I have my suspension apart, my understanding is that's the best time to do the RSFBs.
I already have Whiteline inserts (and I LOVE what they brought to the car), but they're nearly 50k miles old.
Does anyone think it worthwhile to replace them with actual new bushings?
Do the inserts wear over time?
I have the inserts on the car right now and love them, they're only 8k-ish old, so no long-term info. I also have the proper M bushings to install later once my driving catches back up to my car, since those are another step stiffer.
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      03-30-2018, 06:28 PM   #11
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Dollars for doughnuts the control arms are worn b/c the shocks are tired. Replace shocks + M3 arms + RSFB + Rear Diff Lockdown Bracket = the way it should be.
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      03-30-2018, 09:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Dollars for doughnuts the control arms are worn b/c the shocks are tired. Replace shocks + M3 arms + RSFB + Rear Diff Lockdown Bracket = the way it should be.
That's pretty much my plan.
Looking at BMW PS (springs, shocks, anti-roll bars), M3 front control arms and RSFBs. I figure better to do all the suspension work i want at once while it's all apart.
I'm not really familiar with the diff lockdown. I've heard of it, but can you either e'splain it or provide a link?
Recommend one?
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      03-30-2018, 11:54 PM   #13
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Here's a link to the member I got mine from. Really locks down the rear end a bit more.

DIFF lock down bracket, no more wheel hop https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1171425


I looked at the BMWPS. In the end decided that for a few bucks more I could get Ohlins or TCK Single Adjustable. All are a good upgrade.
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      03-31-2018, 07:39 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Here's a link to the member I got mine from. Really locks down the rear end a bit more.

DIFF lock down bracket, no more wheel hop https://www.1addicts.com/forums/show....php?t=1171425


I looked at the BMWPS. In the end decided that for a few bucks more I could get Ohlins or TCK Single Adjustable. All are a good upgrade.
This car is my DD, so I want an upgrade on my springs and shocks, but nothing too aggressive.
Also I don't track it, so I'm not interested in adjustable coil overs.
I want a set-it-and-forget-it solution for daily street driving on crappy New England roads.
Hence I think PS might be the ticket.
I can get a pretty good deal on it.
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      03-31-2018, 11:25 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavpilot2k View Post
Yeah, I actually get an alignment twice a year - every time I switch from summer wheel/tires to winter wheel/tires.
I'm switching back to summers next week.
I think an alignment twice a year is waaay too much. I use a simple tread depth gauge. If wear is uneven, only then do I get an alignment. The tread depth gauge tells you if there is an alignment problem long before you notice it visually and before there is any real adverse wear.
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      05-25-2018, 08:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthernDancer View Post
I think an alignment twice a year is waaay too much. I use a simple tread depth gauge. If wear is uneven, only then do I get an alignment. The tread depth gauge tells you if there is an alignment problem long before you notice it visually and before there is any real adverse wear.
I paid for a lifetime alignment on my car at my tire shop. It cost me around $400 IIRC, but now I get two alignments a year because why not, they're free now.
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      05-25-2018, 08:25 AM   #17
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Thread Update:

My front struts are totally shot. Gotta replace ASAP.
Gonna do control arms too while I'm at it.
And springs.
And bushings.
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