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11-28-2016, 10:20 AM | #1 |
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First time serious detail, need a process check
For Black Friday I snagged a deal on a Torq X random orbital and some Chemical Guys goodies:
V Line Polish and Compound sample kit: V32 Extreme Cutting Compound V34 Hybrid Compound V36 Cutting Polish V38 Final Polish Hex Logic Pads: Orange Medium-Heavy Cutting Pad White Light-Medium Polishing Pad Black Finishing Pad I also picked up a CQuartz UK kit from Detailed Image that I intend to use after the polishing. So here is my proposed process: • Full wash using foam gun, high pressure washer, and two-bucket method. • Clay bar treatment on all painted surfaces. • V36 on an Orange Hex-Logic Cutting Pad with the Torq X. Wiping each panel with Isopropyl Alcohol after finishing each part. • Wash pad with spray of ONR detailer and plastic brush after each panel is completed. Replace pad when gunked. • If V36 removes the swirls and scratches, continue with a second pass over the vehicle with V38 and a White Polishing Pad. • If V36 did not remove the scratches and swirls, try using V34 on the same Orange Hex-Logic Cutting Pad. • If V34 with Orange Cutting Pad did not work, try switching to a Black Optics Microfiber Cutting Pad and V36 Cutting Polish. • Final pass with v38 and Black Optics Finishing Pad. • Final wipe of whole car with Isopropyl Alcohol • Apply CQuarts UK with Suede Microfiber Cloths around the sponge. • Spread the coating in criss-cross or circular motions nonstop, panel by panel, until surface feels dry. • Buff it off with Suede MF towels . • Use the Reload after letting sit several hours to prevent water spotting during the drying period • Let dry 24hrs. Any and all advice appreciated here! Some info from the Chemical Guys about the pads and which compounds to use with them: Yellow Pad - Heavy Cutting - V32, V34 Orange Pad - Medium/Heavy Cutting - V32, V34, V36 Green Pad - Heavy Polishing - V36 White Pad - Light/Medium Polishing - V36 Blue Pad - Light Polishing/Finishing - V38, Waxes, Sealants, Glazes Black Pad - Finishing - V38, Waxes, Sealants, Glazes Red Pad - Ultra Light Finishing - V38, Waxes, Sealants, Glazes
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"Tobias" 2013 135i ///M-Sport 6MT • Pure Stage 1 • XDI 35 HPFP • 404whp/440wtq Last edited by Matticus91; 11-29-2016 at 02:56 PM.. |
11-28-2016, 11:22 AM | #2 |
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Your general approach is pretty spot on... to simplify it: clean, decontaminate, correct, protect. You hit all of those targets.
For your correction process, you have the right idea by starting with the medium polish and a medium pad to help get an idea if you found the sweet spot or if you need to be more or less aggressive to obtain the results you are after. I discuss this in my article Analyzing Your Test Spot. Keep in mind that if you can remove the defects without marring the finish, there is no real need to follow up with a fine polish.. we call this a one-step paint correction. If there is micro-marring present after you have removed the defects, then you will need to follow up with a medium or fine polish to restore clarity to the finish. With CQuartz UK, I highly recommend you apply the product to a small area first (I usually start on the trunk lid) so that you can get a feel for the proper timing between start of application and start of removal. Use a stop watch! In my experiences, CQuartz UK is usually ready for removal by the time you are finished spreading it onto one smaller panel, or part of a larger panel. Don't get yourself stuck in a situation where you have coating drying on the panel and you cannot remove it quick enough. Work slow, take your time, and do it right! Also, if you can leave the car in the garage, I like to let the coating cure overnight before wiping it with Reload. As far as cleaning you pads, you may be confused between "cleaning on the fly" and then a thorough cleaning when you are finished. Your pad will accumulate polish and paint residue after every section you polish, so it is important to regularly clean the face of the pad with a brush, towel, or compressed air to try to keep the pad as clean as possible while you are using it. Once the pad becomes too gunked up, it will not perform as expected (not as much cut, or a poor finish). This means you need to remove the pad, and begin using a new pad. When you are finished with the job, the pads should be thoroughly cleaned with pad cleaners or all-purpose cleaners, thoroughly rinsed, and allowed to dry completely. Check out this article for more info: Pad Cleaning During and After Polishing by Ivan Rajic Let me know if you have any other questions! -Zach |
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11-28-2016, 11:41 AM | #3 | |
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If I clean the pad(s) throughout the polishing process, do you think one of each is enough to finish a single car? Or should I be getting additional pads to swap out during the process.
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11-28-2016, 11:46 AM | #4 | |
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On a small car like yours, we would still probably use 3-4 pads for each part of the correction process (ie 3 cutting pads and 3 polishing pads)... at a bare minimum I would recommend having 2. You might find these articles useful if you haven't read them already... Polishing Pads: How Many Do I Need? by Zach McGovern Paint Correction: Pairing Products and Pads by Zach McGovern -Zach |
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11-28-2016, 12:04 PM | #5 | |
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11-29-2016, 10:29 AM | #6 |
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The paint was pretty hard for my DA, and I went through quite a lot of hex pads, but since it was my first time I suspect my pad cleaning technique was not correct. I've used orange and white, black didn't do it for me in conjuction with the compound and polish used.
You should get rid of any remaining polish before applying any sort of protection because sometimes the oils and stuff can hide imperfections, too. Isopropyl or something like carpro eraser.
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11-29-2016, 10:55 AM | #7 | |
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Also a good call on the polish cleaning, I'll definitely go over the car with some cleaner before I put the CQuartz on. My extra pads and stuff won't be here in time for tomorrow but should be here Thursday so I'll probably tackle this while "working from home" on Friday lol. Pretty excited to see how everything comes out. My prior feel had been "it's a daily so it won't be perfect", since my car came to me with swirls and damage from shipping overseas, but now that I have my hands on this kit I think that will change.
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11-29-2016, 12:47 PM | #8 |
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Please note that it is absolutely mandatory to thoroughly clean the surface with a solvent (usually alcohol based) to remove all oils prior to applying a nano coating unless you are using a special primer polish like CarPro Essence.
The coating will bond best to a completely bare surface, and residual oils will can interfere with the coating during application. I find it to be easiest to wipe each panel with diluted IPA after each step. For example... once you finish compounding a door, wipe it with IPA, then proceed to the next panel. Compound the next panel, and then wipe with IPA before moving on to the next panel. Once the entire car is compounded, begin polishing. Polish a panel, then wipe with IPA and move on to the next panel. Repeat until the entire car is polished. Then we do one more IPA wipe down just to be safe before coating. -Zach |
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11-29-2016, 02:51 PM | #9 | |
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11-30-2016, 07:38 AM | #10 | |
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"Before you begin installing the coating, it is important that you have followed the appropriate steps to clean and prep the surface. The paint should be thoroughly washed, decontaminated, and it is a great idea to perform any necessary paint correction or polishing steps. Once this is completed, the surface should be wiped down with CarPro Eraser to eliminate any residual polishing oils or residue." ... CarPro Cquartz UK Edition: Application Process by Zach McGovern |
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