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      10-26-2016, 06:43 PM   #1
onfireX5
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RaceChip 8 months later.........

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      10-26-2016, 06:44 PM   #2
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RaceChip on the M for 8 months now.....
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      10-26-2016, 10:45 PM   #3
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Looking good still.
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      10-27-2016, 08:07 AM   #4
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A 1.4 second drop from 0 - 100mph is very noticeable. Feels like you're walking with the bypass plug in. Doesn't seem to hurt the fuel mileage when you can keep your foot off the floor (hard to do ) On a 6 hour 75mph cruise last week it got 21.2mpg.
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      10-27-2016, 09:00 AM   #5
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Greetings-
Are you running on the "D" setting, 93 octane, and close to sea level without any CEL? I've been happily running on "C" for 3,000 miles with no issues.
Thanks!
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      10-27-2016, 09:27 AM   #6
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I'm on D, 93 , 0 to 3000ft , 7000 miles.
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      10-27-2016, 12:31 PM   #7
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Good to hear. Did you do anymore logging to see how the ECU is liking the RC setting?

Typically with the colder weather you should be running less boost to hit its load target so if the car likes the RC in hot 90+ summer weather it should be fine in the winter.

Alan
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      10-27-2016, 03:53 PM   #8
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All of the hot weather logs look good. I am very satisfied.
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      10-31-2016, 02:29 PM   #9
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Thanks! Time to notch it up a bit
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      11-04-2016, 10:15 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onfireX5 View Post
All of the hot weather logs look good. I am very satisfied.
I can't wait to review my RC experience...

Do you think there is a possibility to go a notch more than D? or not recommended?
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      11-04-2016, 12:03 PM   #11
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I can't wait to review my RC experience...

Do you think there is a possibility to go a notch more than D? or not recommended?
At my elevation, ambient temp, octane, etc. the logs look great on D. The power increase met my goals so I stopped. I'm sure you could go higher but the tradeoff in the margin of safety "for me" did not justify it.
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      11-05-2016, 06:03 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onfireX5 View Post
At my elevation, ambient temp, octane, etc. the logs look great on D. The power increase met my goals so I stopped. I'm sure you could go higher but the tradeoff in the margin of safety "for me" did not justify it.
What i understood that if there is anything that will go wrong the car will prevent any damage from happening and you can revert to stock using the bypass piece then any CEL will go off. Then you can go back to D setting. (Correct me if i am wrong) and what do you think could happen in your opinion and experience based on your current car and previous cars?
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      11-05-2016, 06:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LBBX5M View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by onfireX5 View Post
At my elevation, ambient temp, octane, etc. the logs look great on D. The power increase met my goals so I stopped. I'm sure you could go higher but the tradeoff in the margin of safety "for me" did not justify it.
What i understood that if there is anything that will go wrong the car will prevent any damage from happening and you can revert to stock using the bypass piece then any CEL will go off. Then you can go back to D setting. (Correct me if i am wrong) and what do you think could happen in your opinion and experience based on your current car and previous cars?
You are correct on it.
That's why the piggyback system has been popular, since in overall, you are still relying on the stock ECU safety parameters.
Most likely nothing can go wrong other than the car going to switch into a limp mode.
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      11-07-2016, 08:02 PM   #14
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Newbie here. I have 2016 MW X6M. I'm thinking of getting the RC from RG Sports, but I'm not confident that I can install it myself. Does anyone know a reputable installer in NJ? Thanks in advance!!
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      11-09-2016, 07:11 AM   #15
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Highly recommend JB4 with BCM, cost $1100, but well worth it, Map1 20lbs, Map2 23lbs, and race gas MAP7 is 27lbs, most of the aftermarkets only allow for 3lbs boost increase over stock, JB4 you can change your map on the fly with their JB4 app. Not too difficult to install and the most power you can make without having your DME flashed. Its a beast just on MAP 1, easily get it sideways on dry pavement, plus you can data log with it.
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      11-19-2016, 02:13 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by BMWadrenaline View Post
Highly recommend JB4 with BCM, cost $1100, but well worth it, Map1 20lbs, Map2 23lbs, and race gas MAP7 is 27lbs, most of the aftermarkets only allow for 3lbs boost increase over stock, JB4 you can change your map on the fly with their JB4 app. Not too difficult to install and the most power you can make without having your DME flashed. Its a beast just on MAP 1, easily get it sideways on dry pavement, plus you can data log with it.
I am happy to hear I would just want someone who actually tried RC on D setup and compare it with the JB4 since they all claim to get around the same HP. Any ideas?
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      11-19-2016, 02:35 PM   #17
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Only way is same track , same day. In theory, Base jb on stage 1 at 20psi is going to be very close to RC on D at 20psi. Add BCM to jb and it will have the advantage since it will hold peak boost through the shift and not drop 2psi at the shift for component protection. Beyond 20psi with RC or jb you are looking at octane boosters through additives, fuel or Meth. Beyond 20 jb plus BCM will kill RC due to the boost extension. RC will go higher than 20 (with octane boosters) but will still be a boost arc and drop 2 psi near the shift. RC dropped my 0-100mph from 10.1 to 8.7 seconds on D at 20peak. Some room is left, but diffs and trans will moan at some point.
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