ER charge pipe install issues - Help

[Threeflyer]

Anyone in the Houston (or anywhere that can help) area with Evolution Racewerks charge pipes installed? I'm trying to install mine and I'm having a hell of a time getting access to the front charge pipe torx 10 bolt to secure the pipe to the turbo charger. I've tried every tool I can think of and I can't get the charge to seat all the way due to the diameter of the pipe. It won't allow the torx 10 socket to fit over the bolt head.

I followed the install directions to the "T". I hand tightened the bolt and then used an open face universal hex socket wrench to tighten more, but the there still seems to be a lot of play at the connection. And there is not a tight metal to metal seal. This can't be right, but I can't get the bolt to tighten anymore.

I've called and emailed ER but, no one ever responds to my inquiry.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

[austexbmw]

I installed a set of the ER charge pipes this weekend and had the same issue with the pipes getting in the way of tightening the bolts on the turbos. Ultimately, I used a small washer on both bolts to remove the extra play and ended up using an open 3/8 wrench to tightened down the bolts. Did you happen to remember to install the 2 rubber O-rings into the ER charge pipes? I forgot the first time around and had to pull them out and put them back on a second time. I think that I can do this job in about 20 minutes now

[Threeflyer]

I did remember to reuse the stock rubber seal O-rings. I didn't think of using a washer to take out the play. That might be my answer! Do you remember the size (thickness) of the washer you used? Also once you had it seated was there any play or movement at the flange connection?

[Pennzoil]

Originally Posted by Threeflyer

Anyone in the Houston (or anywhere that can help) area with Evolution Racewerks charge pipes installed? I'm trying to install mine and I'm having a hell of a time getting access to the front charge pipe torx 10 bolt to secure the pipe to the turbo charger. I've tried every tool I can think of and I can't get the charge to seat all the way due to the diameter of the pipe. It won't allow the torx 10 socket to fit over the bolt head.

I followed the install directions to the "T". I hand tightened the bolt and then used an open face universal hex socket wrench to tighten more, but the there still seems to be a lot of play at the connection. And there is not a tight metal to metal seal. This can't be right, but I can't get the bolt to tighten anymore.

I've called and emailed ER but, no one ever responds to my inquiry.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Do you meant you can't make the CP tight on a turbo ? It's normal , same design as oem , it can be move while tightened

[Threeflyer]

Yes exactly I can't get the charge pipe tight on the connection to the turbo. I understand a little movement, but there is so much I can literally move it enough to create a gap at the flange connection. That can't be right, can it?

[Pennzoil]

Originally Posted by Threeflyer

Yes exactly I can't get the charge pipe tight on the connection to the turbo. I understand a little movement, but there is so much I can literally move it enough to create a gap at the flange connection. That can't be right, can it?

Before I also have your query , then I put the oem bolt back to the plastic cp , the gap that the oem bolt make is the same as ER cp ...

And there have a thread also talking about ER cp , then have a ER guy replied that they are high recommend using back oem bolt , don't try to use own method to make it tight

[austexbmw]

Originally Posted by Threeflyer

I did remember to reuse the stock rubber seal O-rings. I didn't think of using a washer to take out the play. That might be my answer! Do you remember the size (thickness) of the washer you used? Also once you had it seated was there any play or movement at the flange connection?

I used a 1/16" washer to remove the slack. I did use the stock bolt and with the washer in place the pipe was solid without any play. I understand that the pipes are meant to float a bit, but given the higher boost that I am running I feel better having them more tightly secured.

[Pennzoil]

Originally Posted by austexbmw

I used a 1/16" washer to remove the slack. I did use the stock bolt and with the washer in place the pipe was solid without any play. I understand that the pipes are meant to float a bit, but given the higher boost that I am running I feel better having them more tightly secured.

I also feel that if tighten them, there have more boost , coz I used BMS CP before , their design is using their bolt and make it tight , but I consider is there will come other issues after tighten to the turbo

[Threeflyer]

Thanks guys for your replies. I just want to ensure there is a proper seal. I don't want to get everything installed and then realize there's an issue. I will try using washer.

I just don't understand why ER made the diameter of the pipe so large you can't properly access the bolt to tighten it. The OEM CP has a little curved recess in the CP so you can access the top of the bolt. Wish ER had done the same.

[mcvaughan]

I installed BMS CPs, but there was a little play at first. We kept at it and was able to get them to seat properly. Not sure how different ER pipes are though.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Do you have any pictures that you can post?

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by mcvaughan

I installed BMS CPs, but there was a little play at first. We kept at it and was able to get them to seat properly. Not sure how different ER pipes are though.

ER installs a little differently..

Mike

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by Threeflyer

Thanks guys for your replies. I just want to ensure there is a proper seal. I don't want to get everything installed and then realize there's an issue. I will try using washer.

I just don't understand why ER made the diameter of the pipe so large you can't properly access the bolt to tighten it. The OEM CP has a little curved recess in the CP so you can access the top of the bolt. Wish ER had done the same.

You shouldn't have a problem screwing it down as there should be room but I will pass this onto ER for you..

Mike

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Was this ever resolved?

[Threeflyer]

I'm going to get the washer today and try that. I did hear back from ER and Fred said there was supposed to be some play at the flange/turbo connection as the seal is made with the rubber o-ring and not the the metal flange. My concern is that there is a lot of play. I can move the CP such that I can create a sizable gap at the connection. But ER says that's fine. The bolt is down as far as it will go, but it just doesn't feel right.

I don't have pics now but I suppose if I can get the right angle down in the engine bay I could take some.

[Threeflyer]

If I could meet someone in Houston who has ER CPs or a professional installer look it I would feel more comfortable. I don't want to get everything back in, have there be a problem and have to rip everything back out!!

[Evolution Racewerks]

The Torx bolt is there to hold the charge pipe from popping off. The actual seal is the o-ring inside. It is designed to swivel in place which it needs to do. That is why there is only 1 screw there on one side only. The factory Torx bolt has a built in spacer in it so that it stops at the appropriate height. As long as the Torx screw is tightened all the way down (where the spacer stops), it will be secure. You do not need to use a spacer, just the factory Torx screw.

We made the diameter of the charge pipe slightly larger than stock for performance reasons. If you look at the factory pipe, it narrows right on the inlet to accommodate the screw. This would cause a lot of turbulence. Having air turbulence right at the turbocharger outlet/charge pipe inlet is pretty much the worst place to have it as far as flow goes. Thus, we try to minimize turbulence at this joint as much as possible. If you compare your new charge pipe against the old charge pipe, you can easily see the difference. This does make installation trickier compared to the factory unit. Our motto is "Performance, no compromise" and we follow this with our designs. You probably only need to install this pipe once. However, you get the enjoy the performance aspect of it daily. We felt this was worth it. We could have made the charge pipe just like stock. But wouldn't that defeat the purpose of buying an upgrade?

As for tightening the Torx screw. Once you know what you need to do, it really isn't much different than stock as it takes us the same amount of time to swap between stock and ours. I would recommend an E10 Torx socket with a 1/4" racket from Snap On Tools. This is the socket we use here and it reaches the Torx screw without issue.

I believe you had e-mailed and called us yesterday. I tried calling you a few times and left a voicemail. I also replied back to your e-mail as well. Please contact us again if you have not resolved your issue.

Fred

Originally Posted by Threeflyer

Thanks guys for your replies. I just want to ensure there is a proper seal. I don't want to get everything installed and then realize there's an issue. I will try using washer.

I just don't understand why ER made the diameter of the pipe so large you can't properly access the bolt to tighten it. The OEM CP has a little curved recess in the CP so you can access the top of the bolt. Wish ER had done the same.

[Evolution Racewerks]

If you have Facetime, I could Facetime you to see if the installation is done correctly.

Fred

Originally Posted by Threeflyer

If I could meet someone in Houston who has ER CPs or a professional installer look it I would feel more comfortable. I don't want to get everything back in, have there be a problem and have to rip everything back out!!

[Threeflyer]

Fred, that would be great. I'll PM to discuss a time to schedule the FaceTime call!

[austexbmw]

Originally Posted by Evolution Racewerks

The Torx bolt is there to hold the charge pipe from popping off. The actual seal is the o-ring inside. It is designed to swivel in place which it needs to do. That is why there is only 1 screw there on one side only. The factory Torx bolt has a built in spacer in it so that it stops at the appropriate height. As long as the Torx screw is tightened all the way down (where the spacer stops), it will be secure. You do not need to use a spacer, just the factory Torx screw.

We made the diameter of the charge pipe slightly larger than stock for performance reasons. If you look at the factory pipe, it narrows right on the inlet to accommodate the screw. This would cause a lot of turbulence. Having air turbulence right at the turbocharger outlet/charge pipe inlet is pretty much the worst place to have it as far as flow goes. Thus, we try to minimize turbulence at this joint as much as possible. If you compare your new charge pipe against the old charge pipe, you can easily see the difference. This does make installation trickier compared to the factory unit. Our motto is "Performance, no compromise" and we follow this with our designs. You probably only need to install this pipe once. However, you get the enjoy the performance aspect of it daily. We felt this was worth it. We could have made the charge pipe just like stock. But wouldn't that defeat the purpose of buying an upgrade?

As for tightening the Torx screw. Once you know what you need to do, it really isn't much different than stock as it takes us the same amount of time to swap between stock and ours. I would recommend an E10 Torx socket with a 1/4" racket from Snap On Tools. This is the socket we use here and it reaches the Torx screw without issue.

I believe you had e-mailed and called us yesterday. I tried calling you a few times and left a voicemail. I also replied back to your e-mail as well. Please contact us again if you have not resolved your issue.

Fred

What do you mean that the charge pipe is made to swivel in place? Once it is attached to the intercooler with the silicon couplers, how can it swivel?

[Evolution Racewerks]

If you inspect the factory Torx screw, you will notice that it has a spacer built into it. If you put the spacer into the factory charge pipe, you will see that the spacer in the Torx screw is thicker than the flange on the factory charge pipe. What this does is allow the screw to tighten onto the turbocharger outlet flange but does not pinch or wedge the charge pipe onto the turbocharger flange. Also add in that there is only 1 screw holding the flange and you will see the purpose is to allow the charge pipe free movement to swivel in place. If BMW intended the charge pipe not to move, it would require at least 2 screws. It would also not have a spacer built into the screw thicker than the charge pipe flange.

Once it is attached to the intercooler, it can still swivel. The couplers connecting the charge pipe to the intercooler assembly is silicone which allows movement. Also the intercooler itself sits on rubber grommets which allow movement as well. They do move as I have seen it move during dyno runs.

Fred

Originally Posted by austexbmw

What do you mean that the charge pipe is made to swivel in place? Once it is attached to the intercooler with the silicon couplers, how can it swivel?

[Evolution Racewerks]

Feel free to e-mail me directly at fredsu@evolutionracewerks.com as you will get a faster response. I don't check the forum PM regularly.

Fred

Originally Posted by Threeflyer

Fred, that would be great. I'll PM to discuss a time to schedule the FaceTime call!