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      11-21-2015, 10:40 AM   #1
W12x
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Is recoding required when change the battery?

Got the DBC/ABS/Chassis control/start off assist malfunction the first time last time. It just came on while I'm driving and went a few after I restarted the car later.

Most common cause that I read is issue with the battery. The car did not drive any differently while having these lights on. The car is a April 2011 production and was in Texas the whole time.

Thinking about getting a new battery but wondering if recoding is required, some says it is and some others say it's only needed to get the most of our your new battery (I will only be keeping the car for a year at most)
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      11-21-2015, 11:26 AM   #2
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coding is always required after changing the battery, but you you may wanna get your codes read before doing so.

Last edited by tony093; 11-21-2015 at 05:14 PM..
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      11-21-2015, 11:34 AM   #3
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Just spend the $100 for programming or whatever it costs and do it right....
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      11-21-2015, 11:51 AM   #4
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Coding is NOT required. Registering is.
There are a couple of ways to do it yourself with extremely minimal cost.
The Carly app is one. You just need to invest in the BT dongle adapter
You can also see if a coder can do it who is close by.
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      11-21-2015, 02:38 PM   #5
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I did mine with the Carly app and a Bluetooth adapter no issues.
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      11-21-2015, 02:51 PM   #6
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I was just gonna ask this question. My battery is almost due for replacement and the dealer quoted me $460+ for a new battery, coding, and registering. This is a lot higher than I had imagined. Is this about the average price for getting just the battery replaced?
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      11-21-2015, 03:02 PM   #7
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Dang, that is pricey! You can do it yourself for so much less. I think I paid around $200 for everything.
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      11-21-2015, 05:18 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bavarian Beast
Dang, that is pricey! You can do it yourself for so much less. I think I paid around $200 for everything.
That's what I'm saying! I knew they were overpricing it.

Any threads or help on how to register/code a new battery? Replacing the battery shouldn't be too difficult.
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      11-21-2015, 06:57 PM   #9
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There's a ton of threads
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      11-21-2015, 08:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yongj View Post
That's what I'm saying! I knew they were overpricing it.

Any threads or help on how to register/code a new battery? Replacing the battery shouldn't be too difficult.
I used this DIY recently: www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233195

I also used H8-AGM battery from Auto Zone and the Carly app + dongle.
Battery: $218 after tax (I can get $18 back after I drop off my old battery as a core)
Carly app: $45 for the pro app, $10 for the ability to do battery registration
Carly Bluetooth Dongle for iPhone: $75 (I read on other forums that people were able to just get a $20 one on Amazon and it worked fine. I chose the one they recommend to avoid any possible error since I was on a time crunch).

Total: $350 - $18 and I can do other coding stuff if I want to in the future.
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      11-21-2015, 09:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atruelunatic View Post
I used this DIY recently: www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233195

I also used H8-AGM battery from Auto Zone and the Carly app + dongle.
Battery: $218 after tax (I can get $18 back after I drop off my old battery as a core)
Carly app: $45 for the pro app, $10 for the ability to do battery registration
Carly Bluetooth Dongle for iPhone: $75 (I read on other forums that people were able to just get a $20 one on Amazon and it worked fine. I chose the one they recommend to avoid any possible error since I was on a time crunch).

Total: $350 - $18 and I can do other coding stuff if I want to in the future.
Thinking of using the same battery. I'm getting the 'lift' symbol on startup and the battery symbol if I sit in the car with the radio on for a minute or so more often than I'd care for...
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      11-22-2015, 12:43 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atruelunatic
Quote:
Originally Posted by yongj View Post
That's what I'm saying! I knew they were overpricing it.

Any threads or help on how to register/code a new battery? Replacing the battery shouldn't be too difficult.
I used this DIY recently: www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233195

I also used H8-AGM battery from Auto Zone and the Carly app + dongle.
Battery: $218 after tax (I can get $18 back after I drop off my old battery as a core)
Carly app: $45 for the pro app, $10 for the ability to do battery registration
Carly Bluetooth Dongle for iPhone: $75 (I read on other forums that people were able to just get a $20 one on Amazon and it worked fine. I chose the one they recommend to avoid any possible error since I was on a time crunch).

Total: $350 - $18 and I can do other coding stuff if I want to in the future.
Was that the price of the battery AT the dealer? My local dealer quoted me $286ish for the OEM battery for my e92.......

Edit: nvm I'm dumb and can't read. Forget what I just said.
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      11-22-2015, 10:11 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yongj View Post
Was that the price of the battery AT the dealer? My local dealer quoted me $286ish for the OEM battery for my e92.......

Edit: nvm I'm dumb and can't read. Forget what I just said.
yongj, if you're in the Seattle area, hit me up. I'm happy to help register your battery for you.
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      11-22-2015, 11:19 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony093 View Post
coding is always required after changing the battery, but you you may wanna get your codes read before doing so.
It's not called coding, it's called registering.
Many of us use the OBD2 dongle from carly( former BMWhat )and do that over our smartphone.
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      11-22-2015, 01:04 PM   #15
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Registration is ALWAYS required when replacing a battery. Coding is ALSO required ONLY if the new battery uses a different chemistry (AGM vs non-AGM) and/or has a very different amp-hour rating.
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      11-22-2015, 01:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jphughan View Post
Registration is ALWAYS required when replacing a battery. Coding is ALSO required ONLY if the new battery uses a different chemistry (AGM vs non-AGM) and/or has a very different amp-hour rating.
Couldn't put it in better word's! Thank you.
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      11-22-2015, 02:32 PM   #17
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If you have to get a battery anyway might as well save yourself 15-20 pounds and get a Z4M battery. It can be coded just like a stock M3 battery.
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      11-23-2015, 01:49 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrMTB
Quote:
Originally Posted by yongj View Post
Was that the price of the battery AT the dealer? My local dealer quoted me $286ish for the OEM battery for my e92.......

Edit: nvm I'm dumb and can't read. Forget what I just said.
yongj, if you're in the Seattle area, hit me up. I'm happy to help register your battery for you.
Thanks for the offer! I work in Seattle but will be transitioning to a new job over in Kirkland soon. I'll hit you up if I do need to take you up on that offer (I might give it a spin myself for learning purposes ).
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      11-23-2015, 01:50 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboarder
If you have to get a battery anyway might as well save yourself 15-20 pounds and get a Z4M battery. It can be coded just like a stock M3 battery.
Do you know where I can grab one?

While we're on the topic of batteries, where/what do you guys recommend/use for your own e92? And where can I buy them? I hate to sound cheap but I'm not paying ~$500 for just the battery/registration.
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      11-23-2015, 01:26 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yongj View Post
Do you know where I can grab one?

While we're on the topic of batteries, where/what do you guys recommend/use for your own e92? And where can I buy them? I hate to sound cheap but I'm not paying ~$500 for just the battery/registration.
I did a little digging and think a Z4M battery is H6-AGM (group 48):
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ry/319460_0_0/

M3s are H8-AGM (group 49):
http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...ry/319459_0_0/

Looks like the lighter battery is 70 amps so not sure how this'll be on our starter. But if others say it works, then up to you if you wanna go that route to save ~10 lbs.
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      11-23-2015, 03:21 PM   #21
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A lot of people use the Mini Cooper battery (aka CSL battery) that's about 15 lbs lighter. Probably fine for warmer climates, but for a cold climate I'd want the biggest one I could get.
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      11-23-2015, 04:13 PM   #22
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Yeah considering that I live in WA I'll probably go for the bigger battery just to be safe.
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