Is the 135i the car for me?

[Elemento1991]

Hello everyone, I'm new here to the forums.

I'm sure this is a commonly asked question, but I've done some reading and I haven't quite found the exact answer I'm looking for.

I'm strongly looking into a 135i, the only big drawback for me is the E-LSD which could be rectified eventually. I am looking for a sports car but a subtle one. I need something with a rear seat for my toddler but I still want something fun to drive. There's a lot of things I like about the 135i. It's good looking but not ricey, the engine is easy to get nice power out of, a few bolt ons will get me where I want to be. It seems to be the only RWD car in its price range that is still small, sporty, and packs a nice punch.

So a few years back I had an STi and it was a really fun car and it felt like it was begging to be driven hard. I felt very connected to the road and it had a great seat of the pants feel. It had 343whp, along with HKS Coilovers and was fitted with 17 x 9.5" tires all the way around and it really stuck to the road. So basically what I'm asking is, is the 135i with upgraded suspension... Probably ARB's, bushings, and coilovers, capable of becoming a very nimble and agile and raw car? Most people say its some luxury some sport but I really only care about performance, and it being safe when I'm taking my son places. The rest is just nice perks.

-Also a few more, are the stock brakes comparable to the STi's brembos?
-What size wheels can you get to fit the 135i width wise?
-How much power does the stock clutch hold, axles?

Basically I don't want to end up redoing a ton of stuff on the car but I can make due with an exhaust, intake, tune and some suspension components over a year or two. I've been researching and trying to make a decision for months now, if this car can be a solid, direct handling machine with the addition of a few components, then I think I may have finally found the one.

[Dackelone]

A lot of guys here, have come from STi's and Subbies. BMW's are worlds different than Subbies - in a better way! Mosty the build quality and how much more "grown up" the BMW's "feel".

As long as you go with a mild tune... say up too 400hp.. everything will be fine. Its once you go with all the bolt ons(FBO = full bolt ons, 450 Hp or more) you then get into needing a new clutch and other parts. I would recommend a sw flash tune rather than a piggy tune. But their are pluses and minuses for both types of tunes.

The 135i's weak link is its suspension. I would first mod that than the e-diff. Put some M3 subframe bushings, maybe M3 control arms(suspension) new shocks and springs and you will be a happy camper. Also... a lot of guys ditch the RFT(run flat tires) for Michelin PSS's.

Really I think a 135i with a sorted suspension, a Performance Exhaust(PE) and maybe a mild sw tune or even BMW's own sw tune PPK(+20 Hp) would be worth while for a dailey driven car.

Dackel

[Gray_Panther]

^Appreciate this man's post.

[e36addict]

I agree with everything Dackelone said. The 1er is a great car, but suspension wise it's pretty awful stock. Once you get all the arms/bushings and some nice suspension under it, it transforms the car.

I came from the E36 world, 800/900 lb spring rates and poly everywhere, so the 1 was entirely too soft when I got it, but I wanted a nice, new car. Now that I've gotten all the suspension tidbits worked out, and (almost) the power level I want, i'm in love

[lowbudgethero]

Yep, unless you like the runflats the suspension needs sorting out. It's not too bad, but for most of us on the forums we want a bit more and the floaty feeling when the rear end hits uneven pavement sucks.

the ediff works, but not very well at low speeds and when you mod it and you're putting out 450ft/lbs of torque you really start thinking about a lsd

[MikesBMW]

I've got a 2012 135i with PS, PPK, and PE. Getting Michelin PSS tires put on soon. Should be almost perfect at that point.

Brings up a thought though, do folks here on the forums recommend doing other suspension bits even if one already has the BMW PS installed? Do I need M3 bushings and control arms? Feels pretty stiff as is.

[Elemento1991]

Originally Posted by BMW135iMike

I've got a 2012 135i with PS, PPK, and PE. Getting Michelin PSS tires put on soon. Should be almost perfect at that point.

Brings up a thought though, do folks here on the forums recommend doing other suspension bits even if one already has the BMW PS installed? Do I need M3 bushings and control arms? Feels pretty stiff as is.

Obviously I'm not the one who can give you the for sure answer, but to add some input to the bushings side. Stiffer bushings (not sure what's available on the 135 platform) such as polyurethane bushings will eliminate a small amount of time for the car to set. From a performance standpoint it's all about getting the car to respond to your inputs with as little movement as possible made by the chassis until that turn you initiated begins. Anything that happens between your input and the cars actual turn in is lost kinetic energy.

Clearly there are limits to this as bumps and uneven roadway upset the cars "set" so suspension travel is required but that's the concept.

[Elemento1991]

Thanks for all the input guys. I think I'm going to start looking. I have seriously been going through every car, and it's difficult from an enthusiast stand point because I have to look not only at the car itself, but also at its buildability. The 135 seems like a great choice, adding the big three seems to unlock 80hp or so. Add some suspension mods after that and I think I'll be a happy camper.

I may track this car a few times, how is the brake fade? My wrx had horrific fade, but stepping up to the STi's Brembo's I felt like I couldn't get them to fade if I tried.

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by BMW135iMike

I've got a 2012 135i with PS, PPK, and PE. Getting Michelin PSS tires put on soon. Should be almost perfect at that point.

Brings up a thought though, do folks here on the forums recommend doing other suspension bits even if one already has the BMW PS installed? Do I need M3 bushings and control arms? Feels pretty stiff as is.

I would highly recommend the rear subframe bushings from the 1M/M3 cars. It really doesn't increase the harshness that much. I'd say its +5% stiffer. But it totally gets rid of the rear axle feeling like its held in place by rubber bands. Its so worth the hassle of the install.

Dackel's replacement of rear suspension OE bushings with M3 ones…
http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=638163

As for the rest of the 1M/M3 allot control arm bits... IF you wan the best handing 1er... I would also do them. But IF you do the rear control arms... you will need new rear shocks, bc they mount differently on the 1M.

Dackel

[drewster99]

I think the 135i is the best overall package out there for the price. It's pretty quick and handles pretty well stock, and it's so easy to make a real monster out of it. I looked for the perfect car for close to a year and in the few weeks I've had it, I really don't have any complaints. The only thing I don't like is the wiggle in the rear end when my foot is on the floor the road is uneven (I kind of feel like I'm driving a fish). But, like the others have said, that's an easy fix with suspension and bushings.

[PA135i]

My rear shocks finally went. I dont want to spend the money now on a complete suspension upgrade. But, I will replace the rear shocks with Bilstein HD's. I am sure that will make an improvement. When I get them installed I'll report on how they feel with the stock springs.

I do have the PPK1 software and the car is quick enough for me. So much fun. I put on Bridgestone S04's and like the grip and more comfortable ride. The run flats are more tighter to react to your inputs tho.

The car is addictive even with it's maintenance issues. enjoy

[135TX]

Originally Posted by Elemento1991

Thanks for all the input guys. I think I'm going to start looking. I have seriously been going through every car, and it's difficult from an enthusiast stand point because I have to look not only at the car itself, but also at its buildability. The 135 seems like a great choice, adding the big three seems to unlock 80hp or so. Add some suspension mods after that and I think I'll be a happy camper.

I may track this car a few times, how is the brake fade? My wrx had horrific fade, but stepping up to the STi's Brembo's I felt like I couldn't get them to fade if I tried.

The brakes will fade on the track in stock form. No doubt about it you'll smoke the pads and boil the fluid. But there are a few ways to mitigate it, track pads, good fluid, better airflow. The 135i has 6 piston front calipers by Brembo but needs a little help for real track use.

[Elemento1991]

Originally Posted by PA135i

The car is addictive even with it's maintenance issues. enjoy

One of the questions I forgot to ask. What are some issues, unforeseen costs I should be aware of? Anything in particular I should look for/check when checking out a used 135?

[Dackelone]

Originally Posted by Elemento1991

One of the questions I forgot to ask. What are some issues, unforeseen costs I should be aware of? Anything in particular I should look for/check when checking out a used 135?

Some of the maintenance issues are:

*brake rotors and pads aren't cheap. ~$520 for the fronts.
*rear tires seem to last everyone ~12 to 18K miles. fronts twice that.
*carbon build up on the intake valves every 50K miles or less.
*HPFP(high pressure fuel pump) covered under BMW"s extended warranty 10 years/120K but only up to 2010 models.
*electric water pumps failing at low miles('08 & '09's ~50K miles) later model years seem to go ~80K) still its $500 in parts.
*turbochargers leaking oil or wastegate rattling. also covered under a extended warranty.

Don't be put off by these items, bc every car has its "known" problems.

[MightyMouseTech]

I highly recommend replacing the RSFB's with the M3 units, and the front control arms with the M3 units. Almost no difference in harshness/ride, but light years better handling wise. It really is how the car should have come from the factory.

Then it is just a decision how far down the M3 suspension arm rabbit hole do you want to go.

Luckily, both changes are well documented here and are very reasonable price wise, as long as you can do the RSFBs yourself, or find an independent who has access to the press and will do it for a good price.

[mr.fabulous]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

I highly recommend replacing the RSFB's with the M3 units

I plan on doing just inserts, my car is just a DD and honestly I bet I barely notice this (if at all). I have the parts and tools, just waiting for the time.

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=875885

[iconone]

Good info here. I'm also in the market for a 1.

[02rsxpilot]

1er's brakes are excellent. I have to respectfully disagree with anyone saying you will no doubt smoke your pads and boil your fluid on track. Maybe if the track you are on is super brake intensive and/or you are a mediocre driver that overuses them (brakes slow you down, after all, which is the opposite of what you want on track). I drove my 135i bone stock at two different tracks and never had any issues with the brakes. I use upgraded pads simply because I wanted better brake modulation and feel than the OEMs offer.

As for the rest of it, personally I love the look of the car and it seems to grow on people. I think it may be a very desirable car in the future if the engines prove durable.

That being said, the thing is a good 200 lbs too heavy for its size and the suspension is compromised to accommodate RFTs and people who don't even use all the performance their Prius offers. To me, as a pure driver's car, this is where it has been a let down. The result is what others have mentioned--to give you what you are used to with a WRX, you are going to want a few grand to put proper 1M/M3 bits into the car so it handles as good as it looks. Power would be WAY down on my list of mods.

The best advice I can give is what I wished I had done in some way, which is to drive one for more than 10 minutes before you buy one. Find a dealer that will let you go out and just drive it unmolested for an hour or so, or someone here on the forums that'll let you have a go in theirs. You just can't even begin to get a feel for a car with a salesman sitting next to you telling you to get on the freeway and then turn around and talking your ear off the whole time.

[Solo_M_Tech]

Buy it. M3 bushings, suspension, and good summer tires should be at the top of your priority list.

[mr.fabulous]

I decided to buy mine before I even drove one. This is the only option Bee Em Double-Ewe has left that's even remotely targeted where the brand was 30 years ago. It's this or I get out of cars altogether and buy a beach beater (which, honestly, is all I really need anyway).

And I absolutely love the thing, it's still growing on me. The only mod so far is a clutch stop . Oh, and PQ brakes too. I'll do RSFB inserts one of these days... if for no other reason than to keep the factory bushes from tearing out. Sometimes I miss the somewhat jarring ride of my departed E36... but I'm determined to leave this one alone (I'm getting to old for this shit anyway).

BUY THE CAR

[Elemento1991]

Originally Posted by Dackelone

Some of the maintenance issues are:

*brake rotors and pads aren't cheap. ~$520 for the fronts.
*rear tires seem to last everyone ~12 to 18K miles. fronts twice that.
*carbon build up on the intake valves every 50K miles or less.
*HPFP(high pressure fuel pump) covered under BMW"s extended warranty 10 years/120K but only up to 2010 models.
*electric water pumps failing at low miles('08 & '09's ~50K miles) later model years seem to go ~80K) still its $500 in parts.
*turbochargers leaking oil or wastegate rattling. also covered under a extended warranty.

Don't be put off by these items, bc every car has its "known" problems.

Thanks for the great info Dackel, you must be well valued around these forums.

[PA135i]

To add to Dackel's list, my car needed a starter at 80K.