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      10-30-2014, 04:12 PM   #1
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BMW PS + Dinan + M3 Bits Review

So I just got around to finishing up the install. My Suspension is a hybrid of sorts but still sticks to OEM/Dinan components:
  • BMW Performance Suspension retrofit kit (shocks, front sway, bushings, etc.)
  • Dinan springs
  • Dinan camber plates
  • M3 control arms
  • E93 M3 front sway bar
  • 1M front strut bar

Before I continue further, let’s keep this thread on topic, not why Dinan is better/worse than X brand or Dinan vs. X brand thread. I have AST 4100’s + Vorshlag camber plates + H&R sways on my Z4 track car and the car handles like a dream. But I wanted something more “civilized” for my daily driver.

Why did I go with Dinan spring and PS combo?
  1. Dinan springs were marketed as same drop as PS but 1/3rd less in cost
  2. I didn’t need adjustability that comes with Koni’s so why pay for it?
  3. In addition to shocks & front sway, PS is an entire kit which includes new dust boots, spring pads, bump stops, etc. This felt like better value.
  4. I already had the M3 front sway bar so I was able to sell the PS bar to lower my overall cost


PS Kit Contents Sans Yellow Springs



Dinan (left) vs M-sport (right) Rear Springs




Initial impressions - The Good

Back in my VW days, I did a lot of combinations of aftermarket springs, stock / aftermarket shocks. The best result was H&R OE (not to be confused with Sport or Super Sport) mated with Koni dampers. Billsteins were too rough for my liking and Eibachs were too low. But even then the car felt too stiff, dash squeaks began to develop after a month? I’m sure early 2000 VW build quality had something to do with it but nonetheless the car was not comfortable. The BMW Performance Suspension (PS) / Dinan system for the 135i is nothing like this.

As others have pointed out, the best way to describe the BMW PS is that it adds a new level confidence to your driving experience. Yes, you feel more of the crash and bumps BUT the shocks handle the road imperfections with better composure. What would unsettle the car very noticeably is now less dramatic as the bumps are better absorbed. Now when I hit a rough patch, it feels like a series of tiny bumps as opposed to something more jarring. OEM ride quality is maintained.


No Bads but things you should know…

Lowering the car adds camber, duh. However I now have too much camber for a daily car. Prior to the drop, I was at -2.0* front and -1.7* rear with m3 control arms & Dinan plates. With the springs installed, I’m now at -2.7* front and -2.0* rear. The issue is that I have the 1M strut bar which really limits front adjustability despite the pins being taken out. So I’m pretty much locked with that front camber setting. Rears have adjustability but I figured if I’m stuck at -2.7 what’s the point of trying to go conservative in the rear? These alignment settings would be awesome for an auto-x or road course but for daily, it’s a bit much. I don’t expect my tires to last very long. So for anyone else who wants the PS with a practical alignment setting that’s still performance oriented, I wouldn’t bother with fixed camber plates nor the 1M bar. The drop from springs + M3 control arms + strut pin removal would get you to above -1.0 but below -2.0.

Aesthetics

Because I have the Dinan camber plates, the fronts are lowered only ¼” instead of the ½” while rears do drop the full ½”. I actually don’t mind it as it gives the car an even stance instead of something more raked. Not to mention, I don’t worry about ground clearance which was why I went with the PS to begin with. It was never about slamming the car. One thing to note is I also am running upsized Michelin PSS (225/40 and 255/35-18).

Side profile

Before


After


Front Fender

Before


After


Rear Fender

Before


After


Not sure if springs really do "settle" after a few days but I'll post more pictures later this weekend.
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Last edited by 3002 tii; 11-01-2014 at 11:10 PM..
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      10-30-2014, 05:08 PM   #2
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Yeah, they'll settle a little. When I did my swift/billie install I noticed the front settled more than the rear which I thought was interesting. Different parts I know, but nonetheless. What bushings did it come with?
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      10-30-2014, 05:17 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by ShocknAwe View Post
Yeah, they'll settle a little. When I did my swift/billie install I noticed the front settled more than the rear which I thought was interesting. Different parts I know, but nonetheless. What bushings did it come with?
All the stuff pictured here, but things that were important to me were bump stops / protection tubes, dust boots, and shock mount. Here's a complete list of parts in the kit:

http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/33...ined_undefined
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      10-30-2014, 11:29 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3002 tii View Post
So I just got around to finishing up the install. My Suspension is a hybrid of sorts but still sticks to OEM/Dinan components:
  • BMW Performance Suspension retrofit kit (shocks, front sway, bushings, etc.)
  • Dinan springs
  • Dinan camber plates
  • M3 control arms
  • E93 M3 front sway bar
  • 1M front strut bar

Before I continue further, let’s keep this thread on topic, not why Dinan is better/worse than X brand or Dinan vs. X brand thread. I have AST 4100’s + Vorshlag camber plates + H&R sways on my Z4 track car and the car handles like a dream. But I wanted something more “civilized” for my daily driver.

Why did I go with Dinan spring and PS combo?
  1. Dinan springs were marketed as same drop as PS but 1/3rd less in cost with current promotions
  2. I didn’t need adjustability that comes with Koni’s so why pay for it?
  3. In addition to shocks & front sway, PS is an entire kit which includes new dust boots, spring pads, bump stops, etc. This felt like better value
  4. The PS included a front sway which I didn’t need since I already had the M3 bar so I was able to sell the PS bar to lower my overall cost


PS Kit Contents Sans Yellow Springs



Dinan (left) vs M-sport (right) Rear Springs




Initial impressions - The Good

Back in my VW days, I did a lot of combinations of aftermarket springs, stock / aftermarket shocks. The best result was H&R OE (not to be confused with Sport or Super Sport) mated with Koni dampers. Billsteins were too rough for my liking and Eibachs were too low. But even then the car felt too stiff, dash squeaks began to develop after a month? I’m sure early 2000 VW build quality had something to do with it but nonetheless the car was not comfortable. The PS / Dinan system for the 135i is nothing like this.

As others have pointed out, the best way to describe the Performance Suspension (PS) is that it adds confidence to your driving experience. Yes, you feel more of the crash and bumps BUT the shocks handle the road imperfections with better composure. What would unsettle the car very noticeably is now less dramatic as the bumps are better absorbed. Now when I hit a rough patch, it feels like a series of tiny bumps as opposed to something more jarring.


No Bads but things you should know…

Lowering the car adds camber, duh. However I now have too much camber for a daily car. Prior to the drop, I was at -2.0* front and -1.7* rear with m3 control arms & Dinan plates. With the springs installed, I’m now at -2.7* front and -2.0* rear. The issue is that I have the 1M strut bar which really limits front adjustability despite the pins being taken out. So I’m pretty much locked with that front camber setting. Rears have adjustability but I figured if I’m stuck at -2.7 what’s the point of trying to go conservative in the rear? These alignment settings would be awesome for an auto-x or road course but for daily, it’s a bit much. I don’t expect my tires to last very long. So for anyone else who wants the PS with a practical alignment setting that’s still performance oriented, I wouldn’t bother with fixed camber plates nor the 1M bar. The drop from springs + M3 control arms + strut pin removal would get you to above -1.0 but below -2.0.

Aesthetics

Because I have the Dinan camber plates, the fronts are lowered only ¼” instead of the ½” while rears do drop the full ½”. I actually don’t mind it as it gives the car an even stance instead of something more raked. Not to mention, I don’t worry about ground clearance which was why I went with the PS to begin with. It was never about slamming the car. One thing to note is I also am running upsized Michelin PSS (225/40 and 255/35-18).

Side profile

Before


After


Front Fender

Before


After


Rear Fender

Before


After


Not sure if springs really do "settle" after a few days but I'll post more pictures later this weekend.

Now to me, that is the perfect amount of drop, just enought to close the fender well gap. I'm not really into the slammed look, or feel for that matter. I like your approach to the suspension since the car still has to perform daily driving duties. Very well done sir!
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      10-31-2014, 07:41 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3002 tii View Post
As others have pointed out, the best way to describe the Performance Suspension (PS) is that it adds confidence to your driving experience. Yes, you feel more of the crash and bumps BUT the shocks handle the road imperfections with better composure. What would unsettle the car very noticeably is now less dramatic as the bumps are better absorbed. Now when I hit a rough patch, it feels like a series of tiny bumps as opposed to something more jarring.
Very nice description. I completely agree with your comments. Car is more settled, yet I feel more of the road through the suspension. I'm running MPSSs on my 313s right now, but not looking forward to installing my runflat winter tires on 17" wheels in a couple of weeks. Hopefully I won't end up with a ride that is too harsh.
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      10-31-2014, 07:47 AM   #6
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What was the total cost? I am still a way out from doing suspension (definitely after winter) but I don't want to slam the car, so I really don't need coilovers. I also don't track the car.

I want improved handling but part of me thinks spending my handling budget on a LSD will be the bigger payoff on my personal car.
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      10-31-2014, 09:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkrom View Post
What was the total cost? I am still a way out from doing suspension (definitely after winter) but I don't want to slam the car, so I really don't need coilovers. I also don't track the car.

I want improved handling but part of me thinks spending my handling budget on a LSD will be the bigger payoff on my personal car.
Dinan springs were $250 shipped with the current promo. Best deal I could find on the retrofit PS kit was $900 shipped from Tischer after using their $25 off coupon. Others may sell for cheaper but charge outrageous shipping fees.

If you like the ride height where it's at now, you can always get just the standard Koni yellow's for about $650 and put the rest towards a LSD.
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      10-31-2014, 11:25 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3002 tii View Post
Dinan springs were $250 shipped with the current promo. Best deal I could find on the retrofit PS kit was $900 shipped from Tischer after using their $25 off coupon. Others may sell for cheaper but charge outrageous shipping fees.

If you like the ride height where it's at now, you can always get just the standard Koni yellow's for about $650 and put the rest towards a LSD.
How do the springs do on stock shocks? I'd like a little drop after the winter, but it'd have to be static and something I can still enjoy as a daily driver.

The PS suspension looks awesome and like the perfect match for me really, but I don't want to spend close to a grand :/ at that point I'd save up for coils lol.

Can you see why I never mess with suspension parts? I want practicality and performance. Almost impossible to meet both without spending as much as a set of coils.
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      10-31-2014, 11:39 AM   #9
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Even though you're at uneven amounts of drop with front/rear you're still at some positive rake so not all is bad with this combination, like you said.

After looking at your car, mine just looks stupid lowered on OE tires

Anyways, you're tires will be fine up front if you're running close to 0 toe. I haven't seen much wear from my camber settings and I'm actually quite surprised by it.

Anyways, good decisions. I should have started out this post by saying "You should of went with AST 5100s "
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      10-31-2014, 11:42 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Kgolf31 View Post
Even though you're at uneven amounts of drop with front/rear you're still at some positive rake so not all is bad with this combination, like you said.

After looking at your car, mine just looks stupid lowered on OE tires

Anyways, you're tires will be fine up front if you're running close to 0 toe. I haven't seen much wear from my camber settings and I'm actually quite surprised by it.

Anyways, good decisions. I should have started out this post by saying "You should of went with AST 5100s "
The 41's on the z were during their inventory runout so not only were all the kinks worked out hit it received upgraded 5100 components

I really like the PS / Dinan combo. I jokingly said to my wife if I wreck the Z I'll put in TCK DA's with 245 square into the 1 and make that the new track car. Basically my way of saying for a competitive track car you did it right.
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      10-31-2014, 11:45 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkrom View Post
How do the springs do on stock shocks? I'd like a little drop after the winter, but it'd have to be static and something I can still enjoy as a daily driver.

The PS suspension looks awesome and like the perfect match for me really, but I don't want to spend close to a grand :/ at that point I'd save up for coils lol.

Can you see why I never mess with suspension parts? I want practicality and performance. Almost impossible to meet both without spending as much as a set of coils.
I find factory springs to be too stiff for the stock shocks so it'd only be much worse for PS or Dinan springs. And fyi I think factory spring rates are actually pretty good for everyday; the shocks are that weak.

If you can live with a slightly lower ride height than what I have now I'd look at Bilstein B12's and add fixed camber plates so it sits 1/4" higher than otherwise.
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      10-31-2014, 01:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3002 tii View Post
The 41's on the z were during their inventory runout so not only were all the kinks worked out hit it received upgraded 5100 components

I really like the PS / Dinan combo. I jokingly said to my wife if I wreck the Z I'll put in TCK DA's with 245 square into the 1 and make that the new track car. Basically my way of saying for a competitive track car you did it right.
Well done on the 41 grab.

Thanks too btw. PITA to get the car to comply with how I wanted it to, but pretty sure I'm 90% there.

Now I wish my wallet would agree to your statement that I did it right
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      10-31-2014, 07:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3002 tii View Post
...The issue is that I have the 1M strut bar which really limits front adjustability despite the pins being taken out.
First thanks for posting all the details. With the exception of the springs, your path is the exact one I'm heading down (I ordered my PS kit including the yellow springs just a few days ago...).

Of course there's always a question

Can you explain in a bit more detail why the strut bar limits adjustability?

Thanks.

Karl.
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      10-31-2014, 10:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjk_glynn View Post
First thanks for posting all the details. With the exception of the springs, your path is the exact one I'm heading down (I ordered my PS kit including the yellow springs just a few days ago...).

Of course there's always a question

Can you explain in a bit more detail why the strut bar limits adjustability?

Thanks.

Karl.
Because the circular piece that sits over the strut tower, once tightened, limits the movement of the strut pins.
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      11-03-2014, 08:03 AM   #15
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Weekend update

Not sure if springs settled any more but here's a new shot with 12mm spacers up front. I installed 10s on rear but that caused mild rubbing so took those off. Don't really want to deal with fender rolling so maybe I'll throw on the pair of 5's I've got sitting around.



I think the drop is perfect for daily driving. I honestly can't imagine going lower w/o having to worry about always bottoming out.
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      11-03-2014, 08:54 AM   #16
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I'm not sure I understand the alure of the Dinan plates. Why not just get something from GC or Vorschlag so you can adjust them?
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      11-03-2014, 09:07 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisar82 View Post
I'm not sure I understand the alure of the Dinan plates. Why not just get something from GC or Vorschlag so you can adjust them?
GC/Vorshlag/TCKline you introduce a higher stack height (which on non-coilover applications) can increase ride height.

As well, just another source of noise.
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      11-03-2014, 09:12 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Chrisar82 View Post
I'm not sure I understand the alure of the Dinan plates. Why not just get something from GC or Vorschlag so you can adjust them?
Initially I justified Dinan because it was 1/3rd the cost ($130 vs $400). Not to mention I don't even adjust camber on my track car so if I don't need excessive amounts, a fixed plate would be just fine. Thirdly I don't want any NVH or the need to maintain the plates.

Had I not gone with any suspenson, the Dinan plates would've been just fine. I was at -2.0* and that was perfect. It's the fact I lowered the car (and I'm running the 1m bar) that I'm encountering this issue. The Dinan plate is not the issue.

Either way with 0 toe I'm hopeful that tire wear won't be too bad. We'll see...
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      11-03-2014, 12:39 PM   #19
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Nice setup!

I'm thinking about this low cost suspension upgrade on my lightly modded 2011 135i. Im hoping to eliminate/reduce car sway/lean in curves, reduce understeering especially at low speeds, and make the car more flat at high speed turns and quick transitions. I use the car mainly for lapping events, and some street use. Dealing with pretty bad streets at times (bumps and potholes). Would like to keep my fat tires and wheels up front (18x8.5 ET52, 10 mm spacer, -3.0* camber).

While I would love to get a TC Kline or Ohlin coilover setup, the pricing is kiling me, especially with shipping and fees to Canada.

Options Im considering are:
#1 - BMW Performance Suspension Retrofit Kit (under $1000CAD shipped) paired with my current GC camber plates.

#2 - Bilstein HD or other dampers or Koni Sports paired with my GC plates and stock 2011 linear springs, and E93/M3 Front Sway bar.

Details of current setup are in my signature ...
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      11-03-2014, 12:52 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Nice setup!

I'm thinking about this low cost suspension upgrade on my lightly modded 2011 135i. Im hoping to eliminate/reduce car sway/lean in curves, reduce understeering especially at low speeds, and make the car more flat at high speed turns and quick transitions. I use the car mainly for lapping events, and some street use. Dealing with pretty bad streets at times (bumps and potholes). Would like to keep my fat tires and wheels up front (18x8.5 ET52, 10 mm spacer, -3.0* camber).

While I would love to get a TC Kline or Ohlin coilover setup, the pricing is kiling me, especially with shipping and fees to Canada.

Options Im considering are:
#1 - BMW Performance Suspension Retrofit Kit (under $1000CAD shipped) with my current GC camber plates.

#2 - Bilstein HD or other dampers or Koni Sports with my stock 2011 linear springs, and perhaps an E92 or E93/M3 Front Sway bar.

Details of current setup are in my signature ...
Thanks bud! One thing I’ve learned about this hobby is if you’re going to make the plunge do it once and do it right. I don’t mind the PS/Dinan setup because the car will see 1-2 max events per year when the other car is out of commission. But for you, despite being a daily I would go for something more sport oriented. Inevitably you’re going to reach a point where you want stiffer springs (when you’re ready to run R-comps). The cost of 2 installs & alignments alone is equal to the difference between TCK and PS so if I were you, I’d keep holding out till you have enough saved up.

The best sporty dual setup I could think of is Koni Yellows + Swift Springs + M3 front sway + adjustable camber plates. You’d “feel” that setup for daily driving but it’d be a huge improvement over stock on track.
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      11-03-2014, 01:24 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcaron9999 View Post
Nice setup!

I'm thinking about this low cost suspension upgrade on my lightly modded 2011 135i. Im hoping to eliminate/reduce car sway/lean in curves, reduce understeering especially at low speeds, and make the car more flat at high speed turns and quick transitions. I use the car mainly for lapping events, and some street use. Dealing with pretty bad streets at times (bumps and potholes). Would like to keep my fat tires and wheels up front (18x8.5 ET52, 10 mm spacer, -3.0* camber).

While I would love to get a TC Kline or Ohlin coilover setup, the pricing is kiling me, especially with shipping and fees to Canada.

Options Im considering are:
#1 - BMW Performance Suspension Retrofit Kit (under $1000CAD shipped) with my current GC camber plates.

#2 - Bilstein HD or other dampers or Koni Sports with my stock 2011 linear springs, and perhaps an E92 or E93/M3 Front Sway bar.

Details of current setup are in my signature ...
With a true coilover you're going to have to run around ET38-35 to make the fronts fit.
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      11-03-2014, 05:56 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kgolf31 View Post
GC/Vorshlag/TCKline you introduce a higher stack height (which on non-coilover applications) can increase ride height.

As well, just another source of noise.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 3002 tii View Post
Initially I justified Dinan because it was 1/3rd the cost ($130 vs $400). Not to mention I don't even adjust camber on my track car so if I don't need excessive amounts, a fixed plate would be just fine. Thirdly I don't want any NVH or the need to maintain the plates.

Had I not gone with any suspenson, the Dinan plates would've been just fine. I was at -2.0* and that was perfect. It's the fact I lowered the car (and I'm running the 1m bar) that I'm encountering this issue. The Dinan plate is not the issue.

Either way with 0 toe I'm hopeful that tire wear won't be too bad. We'll see...
I see, I see. Is it because the 1M bar is pulling together your front struts that increases the camber?
Appreciate 0
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