[cas]

i stopped by my local pepboys and found a jack that had a removable plate. Wondering if this jack will work with me using the plate or removing it.

jack




jack adapter w adapter



jack without its adapter



jack without its adapter and car adapter

[David 12]

I think it would work best without its adaptor (the third picture from the top) - With both it will never fit under your car.

I place a 5/8" or so socket inside the plastic surrounding the jacking points with a jack similar to yours and the jack fits directly underneath.

[cas]

Originally Posted by David 12

I think it would work best without its adaptor (the third picture from the top) - With both it will never fit under your car.

I place a 5/8" or so socket inside the plastic surrounding the jacking points with a jack similar to yours and the jack fits directly underneath.

it could work that way. talking with TORIN the jack maker they say the last picture will work.

[cas]

just want to run this by the day crowd

[gloster]

My jack looks similar to your first picture but the plate is not removable. No big deal; I cut a piece of wood to fit in the jack point on my car. Works fine.

[cas]

Originally Posted by gloster

My jack looks similar to your first picture but the plate is not removable. No big deal; I cut a piece of wood to fit in the jack point on my car. Works fine.

I purchased Josh's jack adapter. Used to use one with an audi I owned and liked that it didnt damage the jack point. I would like to use Josh's adapter shown in the 2nd and last pic

[DrGP]

Originally Posted by gloster

My jack looks similar to your first picture but the plate is not removable. No big deal; I cut a piece of wood to fit in the jack point on my car. Works fine.

That's what I do as well . But I did have a problem getting the jack to fit underneath the front rocker panel. Even in the fully lowerd position, My inexpensive Chinese made jack would not clear the panel. I had to put the front tires on a small step to gain clearance.

[Josh49]

Whatever setup you are interested in, I personally would do a drop of machining.

In the first setup I would put a pocket in the bottom of the adapter block so that the adapter block sits on top still, but now you have the diameter of the pocket close to the OD of that cup acting as a lateral constraint. I have done that a few times now for members here, that comes out real well IMO, every one so far has fit like a glove..

Second setup I would want something to provide lateral constraints from that bottom piece to the adapter. You don't want the adapter block slipping off the top of that flat rectangular piece. Different ways to accomplish this. Machine away the bottom ~0.250" leaving a circular extrusion on the bottom of the adapter block that fits into the hole, put some hardened steel pins sticking out on the bottom of the block and touching that hole diameter diameter so that it can't move, etc..

Personally, I like to see some lateral constraints.

Glad you got the part..
Josh

[cas]

Josh,

Thanks for your advise. Instead of sending your adapter back I think Im going to get the aluminum jack that everyone has. though this got me thinking of just putting down some rubber where I pulled the jack pad off the jack.

Originally Posted by Josh49

Whatever setup you are interested in, I personally would do a drop of machining.

In the first setup I would put a pocket in the bottom of the adapter block so that the adapter block sits on top still, but now you have the diameter of the pocket close to the OD of that cup acting as a lateral constraint. I have done that a few times now for members here, that comes out real well IMO, every one so far has fit like a glove..

Second setup I would want something to provide lateral constraints from that bottom piece to the adapter. You don't want the adapter block slipping off the top of that flat rectangular piece. Different ways to accomplish this. Machine away the bottom ~0.250" leaving a circular extrusion on the bottom of the adapter block that fits into the hole, put some hardened steel pins sticking out on the bottom of the block and touching that hole diameter diameter so that it can't move, etc..

Personally, I like to see some lateral constraints.

Glad you got the part..
Josh

[gloster]

Josh -- you sell a jack adapter? I'll search the forum

[HyperM3]

When I jack up my car, I slide Josh's adapter into the plastic piece under the car, then slide the jack under that. This way I know its centered on the jackpad.

[Josh49]

Originally Posted by cas

Josh,

Thanks for your advise. Instead of sending your adapter back I think Im going to get the aluminum jack that everyone has. though this got me thinking of just putting down some rubber where I pulled the jack pad off the jack.

No problem..

Yeah I sent you a link a while ago for a harbor freight jack that a lot of people are using/are happy with.. Looks like the similar craftsman jack (which I have) is no longer on the sears website..

[cas]

Originally Posted by Josh49

No problem..

Yeah I sent you a link a while ago for a harbor freight jack that a lot of people are using/are happy with.. Looks like the similar craftsman jack (which I have) is no longer on the sears website..

actually PEPBOYS here in jersey had the same aluminum jacks like everyone shows from sears or that blue michelin jack. the aluminum jacks only have a 1.5 ton rating while this one had a 2.5 ton. I dont know really how to size jacks. Im really only lifting a 1/4 of the car I assume.

[Josh49]

Originally Posted by cas

actually PEPBOYS here in jersey had the same aluminum jacks like everyone shows from sears or that blue michelin jack. the aluminum jacks only have a 1.5 ton rating while this one had a 2.5 ton. I dont know really how to size jacks. Im really only lifting a 1/4 of the car I assume.

yeah, 1.5 ton is fine for what you're doing..

I haven't said this before in this thread, so I'll say it as a general statement to everyone, always make sure to put a jack stand, cribbing, etc under the frame as a failsafe while your car is lifted/you're doing work on it..

[lauer87]

I used a wood block on top of my floor jack for awhile, but one day it cracked, the car didnt fall off the jack or anything. I went out and got a 1/4" steel plate because i know that wont crack or slip.

[Tag]

First off if your jack is too tall return it and get this. It's even on sale!

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...jack+craftsman

Next go to any sports store and buy a hockey puck. It cost $1 and works like a charm. This is the jack I have and I've used it with the hockey puck without any issues and it doesn't leave a scratch.

[cas]

Originally Posted by tag824

First off if your jack is too tall return it and get this. It's even on sale!

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...jack+craftsman

Next go to any sports store and buy a hockey puck. It cost $1 and works like a charm. This is the jack I have and I've used it with the hockey puck without any issues and it doesn't leave a scratch.

hate to tell you this but my jack and the one your showin are the same. both made by torin.

[Tag]

Originally Posted by cas

hate to tell you this but my jack and the one your showin are the same. both made by torin.

What model do you have? I looked on Torin's site and didn't see any floor jacks that were rated 2.5 Tons or looked like mine.

[gloster]

Originally Posted by tag824

Next go to any sports store and buy a hockey puck. It cost $1 and works like a charm. This is the jack I have and I've used it with the hockey puck without any issues and it doesn't leave a scratch.

Hockey pucks are vulcanized rubber, yes? (I don't play hockey). They don't get crushed under that weight? This is safe?

[Tag]

Originally Posted by gloster

Hockey pucks are vulcanized rubber, yes? (I don't play hockey). They don't get crushed under that weight? This is safe?

Nope, they won't get crushed and it barley makes an impression on them. You would be surprised how strong a puck is. It's safe as long as you center the puck which is common sense and won't slip because it's rubber. I learned this trick from a tire shop that works on a lot of BMW's. I saw them using the hockey pucks and talked to some of the shop guys who showed me a stack of pucks they use on Bimmer's.

[gloster]

Originally Posted by tag824

Nope, they won't get crushed and it barley makes an impression on them. You would be surprised how strong a puck is. It's safe as long as you center the puck which is common sense and won't slip because it's rubber. I learned this trick from a tire shop that works on a lot of BMW's. I saw them using the hockey pucks and talked to some of the shop guys who showed me a stack of pucks they use on Bimmer's.

Cool. Maybe I'll give it a try when I switch back to my summer wheels.

I guess I knew hockey pucks were somewhat strong given what I've seen of hockey players' faces.

[Josh49]

The hockey puck idea could work, although I would think you would still want to cut it to fit within the jack block. Then you are lifting through a solid medium from jack to frame, and not lifting through a flimsy shell walled piece of plastic. Next time you're under your car feel the walls of the jack block, and move it around. Then feel inside of the jack block. It should become apparent what you want to be lifting through. Just my 2 cents.