[AN03REW]

Hi, I haven't been on the forum in ages.

I have just replaced my 19 inch back tyres 255/35/19 Bridgestone run flats.

I put on good year eagle f1 none run flats because of good online reviews and price.

After 300 miles and trying then on the bends. Not crazy. My stability control light is flashing very easy. Even if I don't have the throttle pressed and the car is nice and balanced going around a corner it will start to flash.

Do use think it's tyre related or possible electrical problem?

Any know problems like this with f30?

I took alloys off the check hubs and bolts every thing seemed good.

[335dJa]

The traction control compares speeds of all wheels to each other at a set ratio for the standard tyre setup. If you have changed only two tyres to a different type, I would bet it's is what's causing the issue.

[AN03REW]

Originally Posted by 335dJa

The traction control compares speeds of all wheels to each other at a set ratio for the standard tyre setup. If you have changed only two tyres to a different type, I would bet it's is what's causing the issue.

Hey thank you. I never even thought of that! I've heard of 4wd having to change all 4 tyres at the same time but never thought it would make any difference to rwd.

I have the same good years ordered for the front to change as well. But was thinking of canceling them if this was a tyre issue.

So you think get the fronts changed and should be happy family's again?

[teaston]

Originally Posted by 335dJa

The traction control compares speeds of all wheels to each other at a set ratio for the standard tyre setup. If you have changed only two tyres to a different type, I would bet it's is what's causing the issue.

I find this very unlikely tbh! As long as tyres on the same axle are the same then there should be no problems!

[moonshine]

I guess it could be the slippy tyre mould releasant still on the tyres?
I put a set of new tyres on my last car and the TC was forever triggering, even in 6 the gear on a straight Mway in the dry for >the first 400 or so miles till it wore off

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by teaston

I find this very unlikely tbh! As long as tyres on the same axle are the same then there should be no problems!

Not so, if you have experience with earlier BMW models.

Even mixing tyre types (all non run-flats) front to rear has given this issue over the years. E46 330ci was very sensitive to tyre matching. Even users mixing Michelin PS1 and PS2 could have issues. I remember one case where both BMW and Michelin got involved as new tyres messed the TC.

With over 300 miles on the new tyres they should be well scrubbed, other than pressure being totally wrong, I do suspect the mixing of RFTs with the softer F1 non run-flat. Could be completely different with say a Pirelli, but even so, it is not recommended to mix RFTs with non run-flats. What is experienced is one of the very reason mixing of tyres is not recommended.

HighlandPete

[....,,,,..,,..]

Obviously technology has changed but a mate with a cavalier 4x4 had weird fault, car would jerk during driving.

This was finally out down to brand new on front and half used on rear, sufficient difference to trigger a fault.

He had to fit new on rear.

[pferdestarke]

I am having some GY Eagle F1 Asymmetric runflats fitted to the rear this morning.

I've read on a forum that they are very slippery for the first 500 or so miles until the residues wear off.

Give them time to settle and you should be okay.

[teaston]

Originally Posted by Brigand

Obviously technology has changed but a mate with a cavalier 4x4 had weird fault, car would jerk during driving.

This was finally out down to brand new on front and half used on rear, sufficient difference to trigger a fault.

He had to fit new on rear.

Yes this was a problem with the cav/calibra 4x4 transfer box, was the main reason i had fwd calibras! Tyres each side had to have exactly the same tread or the box would blow up, and it was about £2k for a new one! It is very old obsolete technology now.

Anyway we're talking about a rwd car so i don't see how tyres on the undriven wheels can affect the traction on the driven wheels! Lateral grip and/or oversteer/understeer bias maybe, but traction no.

I would think they are just less grippy tyres in certain condition/temperatures.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by teaston

Anyway we're talking about a rwd car so i don't see how tyres on the undriven wheels can affect the traction on the driven wheels! Lateral grip and/or oversteer/understeer bias maybe, but traction no.

I would think they are just less grippy tyres in certain condition/temperatures.

If it isn't the tyre grip levels, a few more miles will define that, then we are into a tolerance stack issue, setting off the system. It may not be simply the new tyre's RC, there are other factors which are in the mix. Could be a combination of the front tyre wear level, along with different lateral stiffness of the rear tyres just nudging the DSC/TC parameters outside safe limits.

As I say, this type of issue is well documented for BMW models, so no surprises if it is the tyre mix issue.

HighlandPete

[Ads4]

I don't understand why you would have TC related to the undriven wheels at the front when there is no power to cut? Stability/break control yes but no traction. I love the Goodyear Eagle F1 (GSd3 and asymmetric) and have always fitted them to my cars however there was an issue once with the GSD3s and a poor quality rubber batch from Asia, tyre dealers changed them FOC to the German stamped rubbers.

[....,,,,..,,..]

Originally Posted by teaston

Yes this was a problem with the cav/calibra 4x4 transfer box, was the main reason i had fwd calibras! Tyres each side had to have exactly the same tread or the box would blow up, and it was about £2k for a new one! It is very old obsolete technology now.

Anyway we're talking about a rwd car so i don't see how tyres on the undriven wheels can affect the traction on the driven wheels! Lateral grip and/or oversteer/understeer bias maybe, but traction no.

I would think they are just less grippy tyres in certain condition/temperatures.

True and same reason I avoided them.

As Pete said it may be tyres, they do take a hundred or so to bed in.

However, being a E91 driver (until 10 June) I am soo used to flashing lights lol.

[rich100]

My cars an x drive so when it comes time to change the rears will I also need to change the fronts even though they will likely still have decent tread left?

[JD6]

Originally Posted by rich100

My cars an x drive so when it comes time to change the rears will I also need to change the fronts even though they will likely still have decent tread left?

No need to change all 4 together. If that was the case, given the different wear rates between front and rear, you would need a full new set every three or four thousand miles to keep them all at the same tread depth.

On a previous xdrive (X5) I always changed fronts or rears together over many years of ownership, and that worked fine.

[rich100]

Great that's a relief, thanks for the response.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Ads4

I don't understand why you would have TC related to the undriven wheels at the front when there is no power to cut? Stability/break control yes but no traction. I love the Goodyear Eagle F1 (GSd3 and asymmetric) and have always fitted them to my cars however there was an issue once with the GSD3s and a poor quality rubber batch from Asia, tyre dealers changed them FOC to the German stamped rubbers.

The OP is saying "stability control" not "traction control". I see the DSC as having issues, whether it is grip (tyres not yet scrubbed in enough) or tyre incompatibility due to mixing with RFTs.

BTW, I loved the Eagle F1 GS-D3, tried them on my E91, suited my driving conditions, particularly as they were excellent in the wet. They didn't get the name "The Wet Meister" for nothing.

It was a shame some unapproved Asian tyres (different compounds) got to the UK, to a degree, tarnished the GS-D3's reputation.

HighlandPete

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by rich100

Great that's a relief, thanks for the response.

I'd still be cautious of what tyres you fit, if not using the same brand and specification as on the car. We are still on a learning curve for the xDrive in the cars. X3 users (and tyre shops) have learned hard lessons in the X3 changing to other tyre options, particularly with staggered setups.

There is obviously more experience with xDrive in other markets for saloons and tourings. Tyre sizes are more the norm, (X3 was a bit different) so hopefully we won't be reading of issues.

HighlandPete

[JD6]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

I'd still be cautious of what tyres you fit, if not using the same brand and specification as on the car. We are still on a learning curve for the xDrive in the cars. X3 users (and tyre shops) have learned hard lessons in the X3 changing to other tyre options, particularly with staggered setups.

There is obviously more experience with xDrive in other markets for saloons and tourings. Tyre sizes are more the norm, (X3 was a bit different) so hopefully we won't be reading of issues.

HighlandPete

Pete

Did the X3 issue arise when using different tyre types on the front and rear?

Even though I changed them in pairs, on my X5 I always had a full set of the same tyres on both my summer (OEM staggered 20" Michelin) and winter (non-staggered 17" Conti) sets.

JD6

[rich100]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

I'd still be cautious of what tyres you fit, if not using the same brand and specification as on the car. We are still on a learning curve for the xDrive in the cars. X3 users (and tyre shops) have learned hard lessons in the X3 changing to other tyre options, particularly with staggered setups.

There is obviously more experience with xDrive in other markets for saloons and tourings. Tyre sizes are more the norm, (X3 was a bit different) so hopefully we won't be reading of issues.

HighlandPete

Thanks Pete

Tyres still have decent wear as my mileage is fairly low so it's not likely to be an issue for s while.

I did notice that the car has different tyres on the front than on the rear which I'd not really seen before but think this is the staggered set up that I have seen many people referring to.

Not entirely sure of what the benefits or reasons for this are (I'm no engineer unfortunately ) but I did plan to buy identical tyres to what the car came with when it comes time to replace whereas in the past I have to say I've mixed and matched.

Thanks for your continued useful advice.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by JD6

Pete

Did the X3 issue arise when using different tyre types on the front and rear?

Even though I changed them in pairs, on my X5 I always had a full set of the same tyres on both my summer (OEM staggered 20" Michelin) and winter (non-staggered 17" Conti) sets.

JD6

The issues normally come from mixing pairs. Been known on examples with a square setup (all four wheels the same) on the X3.

The biggest issue appears to be with the M-sport staggered setups, where if you deviate from running all four tyres as 'star' marked approved tyres you can expect drivetrain issues.

My son runs an E83 X3 and he had trouble sourcing a couple of rear tyres. Our local National tyre shop couldn't get any as they were on back order, had an optional pair (in the correct size) on the shelf, but the guy would not fit them on an X3, even if my son had wanted them, too many issues from his own experience. My son sourced the OEM Pirelli P-Zero from BMW Direct, the only supply at the time in the whole country, National fitted them for him.

HighlandPete

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by rich100

I did notice that the car has different tyres on the front than on the rear which I'd not really seen before but think this is the staggered set up that I have seen many people referring to.

Not entirely sure of what the benefits or reasons for this are (I'm no engineer unfortunately ) but I did plan to buy identical tyres to what the car came with when it comes time to replace whereas in the past I have to say I've mixed and matched.

Thanks for your continued useful advice.

By different I assume you mean in sizing, not different brands. Sizes will be different and therefore correct for a staggered setup.

Benefits are debateable, wider rears do help make the car safer on the limits, as the car will tend to understeer. I had a square and staggered set for my E91, personally preferred the square setup, handling was more neutral, gave a finer balance to the chassis.

Wider tyres can give more grip, in some conditions, but in the wet can be a worse combination than a square setup.

Opinion will vary, but wide rears can be an overkill for normal driving. Sporty looks often win out, even if it doesn't always mean better performance in all key areas.

HighlandPete

[335dJa]

Originally Posted by Ads4

I don't understand why you would have TC related to the undriven wheels at the front when there is no power to cut? Stability/break control yes but no traction. I love the Goodyear Eagle F1 (GSd3 and asymmetric) and have always fitted them to my cars however there was an issue once with the GSD3s and a poor quality rubber batch from Asia, tyre dealers changed them FOC to the German stamped rubbers.

As per my original reply, the ecu compares all wheel speed to sense loss of grip. Front wheels doing 3mph, rear doing 7mph means loss of traction. There is a certain amount of margin to allow for tyre wear but the different tyres could easily go beyond the allowed margin as they could react very differently under load.