[meeeeks]

Just had my car in for the pre purchase inspection and here are the results...

1) battery needs to be replaced - $495
2) front and rear rotors rusted pretty bad/possibly warped? - $1200
3) left front brake air duct cracked - $130
4) engine trim panel missing - $200
5) tires need to be replaced - $1400

$3475

i've heard 1 and 2 aren't covered aren't warranty, but depending on the dealership i might be able to get it taken care of...? for those that got it fixed/replaced free of charge, how'd you do it?

[junniior95]

Originally Posted by meeeeks

Just had my car in for the pre purchase inspection and here are the results...

1) battery needs to be replaced - $495
2) front and rear rotors rusted pretty bad/possibly warped? - $1200
3) left front brake air duct cracked - $130
4) engine trim panel missing - $200
5) tires need to be replaced - $1400

$3475

i've heard 1 and 2 aren't covered aren't warranty, but depending on the dealership i might be able to get it taken care of...? for those that got it fixed/replaced free of charge, how'd you do it?

And this is why the dealership is called stealership, go to an indy, get genuine bmw rotors or textar rotors & genuine pads shouldnt be over 800-900..MAX 1000..check to see any other noticeable damage because my first instinct is to think its been in a minor / major accident if the air duct is broken and the engine cover is missing

[Dafttt]

Your dealership is an asshole, are you over 50k?

[meeeeks]

Originally Posted by junniior95

And this is why the dealership is called stealership, go to an indy, get genuine bmw rotors or textar rotors & genuine pads shouldnt be over 800-900..MAX 1000..check to see any other noticeable damage because my first instinct is to think its been in a minor / major accident if the air duct is broken and the engine cover is missing

yeah, i had the PPI done at a BMW dealership. seemed like he did a pretty thorough job when i spoke to him, but i'll def ask. the thing is, i'm buying the car from an independent dealership located near chicago and.....i live in jersey so won't be able to check anything out in person =T

Originally Posted by Daft Auto

Your dealership is an asshole, are you over 50k?

technically not "my" dealership, just the closest BMW dealer from the indy dealership.
and the car is only at 19k, with factory warranty until 1/1/15 so yeah...

[OmidHariri]

Lol 500 dollar battery. Who ever told you it would cost that much can kill themselves. Get a Bosch one from auto zone and your set with a warrant.

[OmidHariri]

And you can find rotors for much less, I've bought a pair of textar rotors for like 130 for a pair on my 330. Same quality as oe. Z coated too.

[NGEE]

Originally Posted by meeeeks

Just had my car in for the pre purchase inspection and here are the results...

$3475

BMW dealerships. I remember the days well. Now I make the time for DIY.

But OP, did the dealership provide the service/maintenance history? Did they mention if any codes came up?

What are they asking for this car? For a 2011, there's enough here to cause concern over maintenance. I wouldn't be looking to buy a poorly maintained BMW. How does a $200 engine trim piece come up missing on a car still under warranty? How are rotors rusted and warped with only 19k miles? Have you run a carfax? How many owners? etc.

Anyway, if you decide to go forward, I'd use this report to negotiate with the dealer. Do you DIY at all? These are all pretty easy DIYs, which cuts your repair bill at least in half. Except the tires, which, unless you're getting them gold-studded, shouldn't be $1400.

[SanquintinB]

An '11 with 19k having that many issues already... I say run, FAST. A poorly maintained BMW will make you cry

[Wycy]

Almost sounds like some kind if weird salvage car with those issues.

[mjleamy]

I wouldn't necessarily run from the car. At 19k, there really isn't much maintenance to neglect. The dealer would have alerted you if important maintenance issues hadn't been addressed. Worn and/or warped brakes this early sounds like someone (like my wife) who accelerates up to every light and then brakes hard. Cars for sale at used lots go through several hands and frequently someone takes this or that off of them, usually to make a buck reselling them. This is probably what happened to the engine cover. If you do go the route of buying the battery at AutoZone, make sure you at least have the dealer or indy register it. This is critically important. See many threads on the topic. Good luck with your purchase!

[SilverJester]

Hrm, I would ask the dealer to replace the battery and maybe the engine cover (if it really bothers you). The battery shouldn't cost anywhere near $500 to replace though.

Does the car vibrate when braking? Because that's what warped rotors do. If the BMW dealer told they were rusty it seems fishy to me. Rotors can rist if the car sits over night in the rain (even just one night). The act of applying brakes when driving scrubs the rust off, so that is really a non issue.

If it was a good price I would go for it, and personally (if its a good deal) I wouldn't worry about the trim piece or brake ducting.

[330iE90spt]

Originally Posted by NGEE

BMW dealerships. I remember the days well. Now I make the time for DIY.

But OP, did the dealership provide the service/maintenance history? Did they mention if any codes came up?

What are they asking for this car? For a 2011, there's enough here to cause concern over maintenance. I wouldn't be looking to buy a poorly maintained BMW. How does a $200 engine trim piece come up missing on a car still under warranty? How are rotors rusted and warped with only 19k miles? Have you run a carfax? How many owners? etc.

Anyway, if you decide to go forward, I'd use this report to negotiate with the dealer. Do you DIY at all? These are all pretty easy DIYs, which cuts your repair bill at least in half. Except the tires, which, unless you're getting them gold-studded, shouldn't be $1400.

+1 !!!

[Efthreeoh]

Okay, so I read all 5 of your posts to understand what you are talking about. From your other thread it looks like you found a Blue 2011 E90 328xi w/ 19K on the clock from a BMW dealership in Chicago. So what I don't understand is did you buy the car already for $28K and then did a PPI and found out it needs $3,400 in extra work? Or did you just have the PPI done and crying about the stuff the car needs is an extra $3,400 and you haven't already bought the vehicle?

Regardless, my thoughts are there is something very wrong with this car:

- Why is a 19,000 mile car NOT a CPO and being sold at a dealership?

- Why does it need tires already at 19,000 miles? And get tires from a tire shop not the dealer and save $700.

- I'll assume the $200 "engine trim panel" is the engine belly pan. If it is, it is way less than $200. It takes a Tech 2 minutes to install it. And why is it missing in the first place? It's bolted to the chassis with 16 screws; it's not like it just falls off the car and goes missing.

- Why does the car have a "cracked brake air duct"? How does that get cracked when it is buried in the frontend plastic-work between the bumper and fenderwell liner? Something damaged it. Something tells me with the brake duct being cracked and the belly pan missing, this car took a hit from underneath in the front. It could have frame and/or suspension damage.

- Brake rotors rust, which is no big deal and will clean up as soon as you drive it. If the rotors are warped at 19,000 miles, then I'd suggest the car was driven way too hard.

- If the battery needs to be replaced at 3 years and 19,000 miles then the car must have sat for a very long time, which means it's been passed over by many people before you.

Get the dealer to fix all that stuff for free for the kind of price they are asking. But if it were me buying sight unseen, no way I'd buy it.

And lastly, you really can't find an almost similar car on the East coast?

[shazzy04]

Originally Posted by SanquintinB

An '11 with 19k having that many issues already... I say run, FAST. A poorly maintained BMW will make you cry

He speaks truth.

[330iE90spt]

OP, I did the same thing when I bought my e90. I bought out of state at a Toyota dealership and had BMW that was close by do a PPI. I'm in NY and the car was in SC.

Have BMW email you the PPI so you have it in writing. Use that to negotiate price. Just make sure you cover all your bases... do your due diligence. Like others have said... carfax, ask questions until there are no more questions to ask.

As for the repairs... figure that stuff out after (if you purchase)... what needs to be done and what can wait. Don't understand why an '11 needs a new battery!? I'd assume the car has the original RF tires. If in fact they're shot, I'd suggest you go the Non RF route. You can find deals for 7-8 hundred bucks for good tires. Good Luck!

[mike-y]

did you inspect these issues yourself yet?

I'd like to see how much rust is on the rotors. most of the time, that stuff is from sitting in a lot for a while, and comes off after driving a few miles. same with the battery - if the car hasn't been driven, it can cause the battery to go flat.

how much tread is on the tires? are they really worn out after 19k miles? what kind of tires are they?

the other two things sound easily fixable, though what are they saying is a cracked "air duct". is it one of the little plastic grills in the front bumper, or the actual part behind the bumper that runs to the fender well?

[meeeeks]

Originally Posted by OmidHariri

Lol 500 dollar battery. Who ever told you it would cost that much can kill themselves...

hahaha, them stealerships...gotta love em... -_-

Originally Posted by NGEE

BMW dealerships. I remember the days well. Now I make the time for DIY.

But OP, did the dealership provide the service/maintenance history? Did they mention if any codes came up?

What are they asking for this car? For a 2011, there's enough here to cause concern over maintenance. I wouldn't be looking to buy a poorly maintained BMW. How does a $200 engine trim piece come up missing on a car still under warranty? How are rotors rusted and warped with only 19k miles? Have you run a carfax? How many owners? etc.

Anyway, if you decide to go forward, I'd use this report to negotiate with the dealer. Do you DIY at all? These are all pretty easy DIYs, which cuts your repair bill at least in half. Except the tires, which, unless you're getting them gold-studded, shouldn't be $1400.

The car was actually originally purchased from a dealership in NJ relatively close to me so i'm going to see if they can provide me with the service/maintenance records. The guy that did the PPI said no codes came up so that's some good news. Ran a carfax and it was clean except for 1 minor fender bender i believe (rear bumper was replaced). Only 1 owner, I would be the second.

Unfortunately the dealership i'm buying from (independent dealership) won't (says he "can't" - which i think is BS...but yeah) budge on the price even after i mentioned all the issues.
I don't DIY much, i've done some DIY's with my friend on his audi a4, but thats about it. Definitely going to try and start DIYing though.

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

Okay, so I read all 5 of your posts to understand what you are talking about. From your other thread it looks like you found a Blue 2011 E90 328xi w/ 19K on the clock from a BMW dealership in Chicago. So what I don't understand is did you buy the car already for $28K and then did a PPI and found out it needs $3,400 in extra work? Or did you just have the PPI done and crying about the stuff the car needs is an extra $3,400 and you haven't already bought the vehicle?

Regardless, my thoughts are there is something very wrong with this car:

- Why is a 19,000 mile car NOT a CPO and being sold at a dealership?

- Why does it need tires already at 19,000 miles? And get tires from a tire shop not the dealer and save $700.

- I'll assume the $200 "engine trim panel" is the engine belly pan. If it is, it is way less than $200. It takes a Tech 2 minutes to install it. And why is it missing in the first place? It's bolted to the chassis with 16 screws; it's not like it just falls off the car and goes missing.

- Why does the car have a "cracked brake air duct"? How does that get cracked when it is buried in the frontend plastic-work between the bumper and fenderwell liner? Something damaged it. Something tells me with the brake duct being cracked and the belly pan missing, this car took a hit from underneath in the front. It could have frame and/or suspension damage.

- Brake rotors rust, which is no big deal and will clean up as soon as you drive it. If the rotors are warped at 19,000 miles, then I'd suggest the car was driven way too hard.

- If the battery needs to be replaced at 3 years and 19,000 miles then the car must have sat for a very long time, which means it's been passed over by many people before you.

Get the dealer to fix all that stuff for free for the kind of price they are asking. But if it were me buying sight unseen, no way I'd buy it.

And lastly, you really can't find an almost similar car on the East coast?

The latter; haven't officially purchased yet. Was waiting for the PPI. But was planning on having the check mailed out sometime next week. (financing through my bank)

- The reason it isn't CPO is because I'm buying from an Indy dealer who bought the car from an auction.
- Yeah, my thoughts exactly on the tires...such low miles and already worn out...?? $1400 was the quote for a set of RF's...but yeah, I think i wanna go with non-RF's and save the money
- can't explain the belly pan either...hah, i'll ask the service rep when i talk to him later today
- the service rep didn't mention any frame/suspension damage so I'm hoping we're good there.
- i was thinking this as well: car must've been driven really hard. on that note... if the rotors are in fact warped...would i somehow be able to get that replaced under the warranty??
- i think the dealership acquired the car only a couple months back (January i think?) so...i guess it's been a while...sorta?
- the bmw service rep said the car was in very good condition other than those things. but yes, i'm still a bit worried...but still leaning towards going ahead with the purchase
- i did my search nationwide and only found 2 other similar cars. one was from an actual BMW dealership but the day i called asking about it the sales rep said it had sold just the day before
as for the other one, it's not listed anymore

Originally Posted by 330iE90spt

OP, I did the same thing when I bought my e90. I bought out of state at a Toyota dealership and had BMW that was close by do a PPI. I'm in NY and the car was in SC.

Have BMW email you the PPI so you have it in writing. Use that to negotiate price. Just make sure you cover all your bases... do your due diligence. Like others have said... carfax, ask questions until there are no more questions to ask.

As for the repairs... figure that stuff out after (if you purchase)... what needs to be done and what can wait. Don't understand why an '11 needs a new battery!? I'd assume the car has the original RF tires. If in fact they're shot, I'd suggest you go the Non RF route. You can find deals for 7-8 hundred bucks for good tires. Good Luck!

I'm going to give it another try to see what we can do about the price and yes, I'm with ya on the non-RFs

Thanks everyone for all your input! You've all been a great help. I'll keep you guys updated!

[hockeyplayer]

"Unfortunately the dealership i'm buying from (independent dealership) won't (says he "can't" - which i think is BS...but yeah) budge on the price even after i mentioned all the issues."

Don't buy it.

[Wycy]

How hard have you pressed the dealer to reduce price? He might just be stonewalling now that he's feeling 99% sure you're still pretty much sold, particularly now that you have sunk costs in the car (the PPI). If you start talking about backing out of the sale, he may change his tune, because he has sunk costs (time/effort) in you.

[meeeeks]

Originally Posted by mike-y

did you inspect these issues yourself yet?

I'd like to see how much rust is on the rotors. most of the time, that stuff is from sitting in a lot for a while, and comes off after driving a few miles. same with the battery - if the car hasn't been driven, it can cause the battery to go flat.

how much tread is on the tires? are they really worn out after 19k miles? what kind of tires are they?

the other two things sound easily fixable, though what are they saying is a cracked "air duct". is it one of the little plastic grills in the front bumper, or the actual part behind the bumper that runs to the fender well?

- Nah, the car is in Illinois so I can't inspect it in person. Relying on the BMW service rep pretty much (who seems very nice/genuine from our conversation from yesterday).
- As for the rust, that's what i'm hoping for...just drive it off heh.
- The dealer's site says 60% tread left. When I mentioned that to the BMW service rep, he kinda laughed and said "yeah...you're definitely going to have to replace the tires very very soon" -_- I believe they are the stock RFs
- i believe its the part behind the bumper that runs to the fender well, but I'll confirm with the rep

[330iE90spt]

From a quick search on cars.com, I found your car. I see the accident that was reported on 4/1/13... definitely call Prestige BMW and ask them about the accident, repairs, condition of the car when they serviced it, etc...

Also, the INDY dealership purchased car at auction... you know they're going to make a pretty penny from this sale.

Accident on carfax, 3.5k worth of work according to BMW... negotiate!!

[meeeeks]

here's a link to the car

http://www.diamondmotorworks.com/det...-11637524.html