[Dark_Knight_335]

I want to try to start changing my wheels myself after this last ordeal, but just wondering what you guys with coupes and convertibles with m-sport are using so I don't damage anything in the process -soup to nuts- thank you!

[fravel]

I have a lowered E90. I took some 2x10's, cut them up to about 1.5' long and then stacked them 3x high so I'd have "blocks" to set my front wheels on. I use a low profile jack (I think the one I have goes down to 2 3/8", got it at harbor freight) under the jack points on the side of the car to get it up off the ground and slide the 2x10 blocks in place. This gives me a bit of space to get the jack under the car then jack the car up using the front center jack point so that I can place jack stands under the jacking points on the side of the car. Once the front end is in the air I place the jack under the rear subframe and jack up the rear, then place jack stands under the rear jacking points.

[Dark_Knight_335]

Thanks for sharing your setup! I'm hoping I can just get away with a decent lug wrench, jack pads, and jack.

[Bobble]

I do something similar to above but use a set of rhino ramps. I drive up until I have the clearance needed to jack at the front center point, jack up and put on stands, then do the rears. Used the same method on my slammed E46. I have a low profile HF jack and aluminum stands. The ramps I boght at PepBoys when they were on sale.

[jessandjamie]

I applaud you for pursuing this. Look into a torque wrench. That way you don't risk warping rotors.

[s!ke]

How are the HF jacks holding up? I know HF sells cheap stuff and would be weary of anything that could potentially hold your life in it's hands.

Imagine being under the car and the HF jack or stands failing?

[ken1137]

BTW...rotors dont warp unless you are the HULK.

Dont forget your breaker-bar. Impact wrench is nice to use after the breaker bar. Just zip the lug bolts or lug-nuts off.

[Dark_Knight_335]

Originally Posted by jessandjamie

I applaud you for pursuing this. Look into a torque wrench. That way you don't risk warping rotors.

Thanks man! Way back in the day when I was younger my pops showed me how to change a tire.

I've gotten lazy over the years, and perhaps now it's time to put that valuable skill back into action.

[Taran.J]

Ain't no better feeling that jacking up your car and cleaning them barrels every two weeks.

I just do each corner so no need to deal with 2x4's and such being low

[CaptChaos]

• low profile jack
• breaker bar - I think mine is 24"-30" long, with 1/2" drive
• 17mm socket + extension, with 1/2" drive, need enough length to provide fender clearance
• BMW jack pad so your jack doesn't tear up the jack points
• torque wrench that goes to at least 100 ft-lbs with 1/2" drive (88 required on 3 series)
• optional - scrap piece of 2x4 to chock the opposite corner while jacking
• optional - wheel hanger guide so its easier to line up and hold the wheel on the hub
• optional - wire brush and some anti-seize compound to clean hubs and keep things from rusting together
• optional - electric/cordless drill or impact driver with 1/2" drive to speed things up

[Dark_Knight_335]

Originally Posted by CaptChaos

• low profile jack
• breaker bar - I think mine is 24"-30" long, with 1/2" drive
• 17mm socket + extension, with 1/2" drive, need enough length to provide fender clearance
• BMW jack pad so your jack doesn't tear up the jack points
• torque wrench that goes to at least 100 ft-lbs with 1/2" drive (88 required on 3 series)
• optional - scrap piece of 2x4 to chock the opposite corner while jacking
• optional - wheel hanger guide so its easier to line up and hold the wheel on the hub
• optional - wire brush and some anti-seize compound to clean hubs and keep things from rusting together
• optional - electric/cordless drill or impact driver with 1/2" drive to speed things up

Wow that is an incredible list... thank you captain!!

[2010MSPORT335i]

Low Pro Jack
Torque Wrench with 17mm and Extension
2 Jack Stands
Some wood to drive up on.

I usually jack the front of my car up via the central point.

[Miller335]

I use a low pro jack on one of the side jacking points to get the car up enough to get a regular jack on the front center jack point.

[atinybug]

I bought some ramps a while ago, and I can no longer just drive my car up them anymore without scraping my bumper. So what I do now is stick a couple 2x4s in front of my tires, drive on top of them, then lift the car with a jack, then if needed I'll manually put the ramps under my front tires.

[notnow]

To change my wheels I just use a breaker bar to loosen all nuts on one side, then only use a low profile hydraulic jack on the side rear jack point to lift the entire side up. Take off wheel and torque down with torque wrench.

I don't use my jack stands unless I'm planning on working on the car for over 10mins. By the time I put my jack stands under the car the wheels would have been swapped already.

I can no longer use the front side jack point because the car is too low :S

[roadkillrob]

Originally Posted by CaptChaos

• low profile jack
• breaker bar - I think mine is 24"-30" long, with 1/2" drive
• 17mm socket + extension, with 1/2" drive, need enough length to provide fender clearance
• BMW jack pad so your jack doesn't tear up the jack points
• torque wrench that goes to at least 100 ft-lbs with 1/2" drive (88 required on 3 series)
• optional - scrap piece of 2x4 to chock the opposite corner while jacking
• optional - wheel hanger guide so its easier to line up and hold the wheel on the hub
• optional - wire brush and some anti-seize compound to clean hubs and keep things from rusting together
• optional - electric/cordless drill or impact driver with 1/2" drive to speed things up

This is a great list, here is what I would add

Some toren jack stands http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251454414043?lpid=82
adapters for jack stands to fit bmw jack blocks http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jack-Stand-b...p2054897.l5658

I always wrap the socket with tape (usually cloth tape or electrical tape) to stop it chipping or scratching the wheel when putting it on and off the lugs.

Also - when you put it back together, just clean the lugs (wire brush works good) do not put any anti-seize on the lugs themselves as it will mess up the torque settings and can cause over torquing of the lugs - they should just be dry and clean or a little light oil at the most. The anti-seize should only be applied to the hub face and hug ring to prevent the wheel from seizing to the hub.

Also - a note that a lot of people don't know. There is a jack point in the center of the car front and back, one under the engine cradle (there is a hole in the undertray and a plastic block to jack on and also near the rear end there is another jack point. With a good low profile jack you can get to those 2 jack points and then just jack there and put the jackstands under the jack points near each wheel. If I am just changing one wheel, I will sometimes use the jack point near the wheel but then you can't use a jackstand, so I will just put a wood block under the jack and let it down a little to jam the block in the jack so it can fall while I change the wheel.

These are not bad for the money - aluminum low profile floor jack http://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-...ump-68054.html

[Efthreeoh]

Here's my tool list to change wheels :

- 17MM Craftsman deep-well impact socket w/ 3" impact extension bar
- 1/2-drive Craftsman torque wrench
- Wheel Stud bar from my old E30's tool kit (essential for lining up bolt holes on front hubs)
- Ingersoll Rand Model 2131 1/2-drive air impact wrench w/ 1000 ft/lb reverse torque
- Ingersoll Rand SL-55 Air Compressor
- 25' 1/2 Goodyear air hose
- Rotary SPO-A10 automotive lift
- 24 x 30 Pole Barn w/ 9" concrete floor

Sorry just braggin'

[Dark_Knight_335]

Wow....all great posts! You guys are making it tough for me

[sandjam]

Originally Posted by Dark_Knight_335

Wow....all great posts! You guys are making it tough for me

That sounds like overkill just to swap summer and winters. I bought a craftsman low profile jack for 58.00 at sears. Slides right under front and rear sides no problem.
I don't use a jack pad, a lot don't fit into the smaller cradles of the low profile jacks depending on model. The jack points are fine if you put them in the cradle of the jack.

Craftsman Breaker bar & 17MM deep impact socket to loosen bolts. Torgue wrench to tighten bolts. If you use a deep socket it gives enough clearance by the fenders.

You should never use an extension on a torque wrench. Your torque reading will be wrong.

You do not need an impact wrench to remove bolts torqued to 88 ft lbs. With a breaker bar they come off very easy.

Small tube of anti seize for around hub. You need very little.

I can swap all 4 in 20 minutes. I just did it last weekend.

I did spend 120.00 for a wall rack for the tires from tire rack. Keeps them up and out of the way.

[gtaccord]

Extensions do not effect torque readings on a torque wrench. That is an urban legend.