[Curt]

I just recently got back from an emissions test, CA SMOG, and received a high reading on HC (PPM): hydrocarbon ppm. The results are as follows:


I have a n54 2007 BMW 335i with JB+ installed when the first test was taken.

Test 04/09/2014 FAIL
• 15MPH: 96 PPM (MAX Allowed: 52)
• 25MPH: 28 PPM (MAX Allowed: 36)


Test 04/10/2014 FAIL
• 15MPH: 58 [-38] PPM (MAX Allowed: 52)
• 25MPH: 36 [+8] PPM (MAX Allowed: 36)
Changes: Warmed up cats for 30 minutes, almost passed 15mph measurement which failed; almost failed 25mph measurement this time though.


Test 04/12/2014 PASS
• IDLE @ 732 RPM: 92 (Max: 100)
• Neutral @ 2500 RPM: 68 (Max: 130)

Changes: Added the CRC Guaranteed to Pass Fuel Formula; Plugged in vacuum connector that was previously removed for exhaust sound mod; Drove car for longer distance, kept car running @ smog shop. Smog shop also performed an idle emission test compared to dyno.



Conclusion: I've just barely passed, it could be anything. Not sure if the fuel additives helped, I haven't run through the whole tank before retaking test. The test I've taken this time was also an emissions test from idle, as compared to the dyno/speed tests, not sure if that was the case. Just glad to have passed, not looking forward to 2 years later though.

Work Log (prior to test):
I didn't warm up the engine other than driving 2 miles to a shop before taking the test.
Switched back downpipes to OEM stock from AR Catless 2 weeks before test.
I've just (1 hr before test) put in the stock intake from AFE.
4/10/2014: Removed JB+ Chip, warmed up cats for 30 min; results still fail but 15mph test closer and 25mph test worsened.

View post on imgur.com

4/12/2014: Added 'CRC Guaranteed to Pass fuel additive formula'; Plugged in vacuum actuator connector from sound mod; Drove longer distance to warm cats; Passed on idle based emissions test compared to dyno.

My question to you is: What do you think is causing the high HC PPM? Would having JB+ plugged in make a significant difference in hydrocarbon compared to a stock install? I forgot to unplug the chip before taking it in, I wonder if it'd make a difference if I remove the HB+ chip.

[mike-y]

you probably didn't get the cats hot enough to work properly.

Does the JB4 have a bypass setting? that should be fine for testing. Also, when you change engine mods, it can take a couple hundred miles for things to adapt, so maybe the car didn't have enough time to adapt back to the stock airbox.

keep driving your car with the stock stuff for a few days, and when you are ready to re-test, drive the car around for 30 minutes before pulling into the smog shop.

[ctuna]

Cabon Build up in on Intake Valves?
Just speculation but maybe its time to have it Walnut Blasted.

[kunal_d]

Get the car to full operating temp and re-test.

[techwhiz]

I don't think carbon buildup. My car needed head work and still passed.
If the cats are not warm, forget it.
2 miles of driving before a smog test? Are you kidding????
2 miles, the car has not reached operating temp. You still might be running rich from starting after two miles.

The smog station should have sent you on your way and not even done the test!

The cats need to be properly heated.
The car needs to be at operating temperature.
Drive for 30 minutes before testing.

If the cats are hot and all emissions stuff is intact and the car is at operating temp, failing is not likely.

[tc535i]

Yup, failure at low means the car wasn't hot, at higher speed it was fine. You need to give it some good heavy load runs to get the cats hot and slap it right on the rollers.

[Bartman619]

Flog the car on the Freeway for about 30 miles..then take it back for a retest.

[Curt]

Originally Posted by mike-y

you probably didn't get the cats hot enough to work properly.

Does the JB4 have a bypass setting? that should be fine for testing. Also, when you change engine mods, it can take a couple hundred miles for things to adapt, so maybe the car didn't have enough time to adapt back to the stock airbox.

keep driving your car with the stock stuff for a few days, and when you are ready to re-test, drive the car around for 30 minutes before pulling into the smog shop.

It's JB+ so no bypass setting, but I guess I'll take it out just in case and put her in the highway. Thanks

Originally Posted by ctuna

Cabon Build up in on Intake Valves?
Just speculation but maybe its time to have it Walnut Blasted.

Naa, I've had valve cleaning a few hundred miles ago.

[Curt]

4/10/2014:
Removed JB+ today and warmed up cats/car for 35 min, 4-5th gear 80 mph runs.
Results still fail but HC @ 15mph better, 25mph worsened.

new results(hot engine w/o chip) compared to new results(hot engine w/o chip) compared to View post on imgur.com

Next up: Going to reset battery since I pulled chip, put in some emissions test formula/fuel system cleaner (

pic1 pic1 View post on imgur.com

) and run the tank through before going to next smog, will post results.. Any more suggestions?

[Spectre]

Originally Posted by Curt

4/10/2014:

Next up: Going to reset battery since I pulled chip, put in some emissions test formula/fuel system cleaner (

pic1 pic1 View post on imgur.com

) and run the tank through before going to next smog, will post results.. Any more suggestions?

I just got my 335i smogged and heres my advice. First off, convert vehicle back to full stock. disable any software or pull JB+. Reseting the battery isn't a bad idea but when you do this and immediately go to smog check, you will most likely fail functional test because systems will not be "ready" (aka Readiness Test). In order to pass functional, you need to drive your car for a while. 100 miles of normal driving should be enough.

In my case, my first attempt at smog check I left in my BMS DCI and just disabled my JB4 (left installed) immediatly before I went on the rollers. I passed emissions, but failed readiness test because my car needed to drive around on stock configuration for a while. The technician was nice enough to pass my DCI even though he wasn't supposed to because they aren't CARB certified. I came back a week later driving on Map0 (JB4 disabled) and stock intake for about a week and passed every test with flying colors.

Good luck!

[Curt]

Originally Posted by EJB1990

I just got my 335i smogged and heres my advice. First off, convert vehicle back to full stock. disable any software or pull JB+. Reseting the battery isn't a bad idea but when you do this and immediately go to smog check, you will most likely fail functional test because systems will not be "ready" (aka Readiness Test). In order to pass functional, you need to drive your car for a while. 100 miles of normal driving should be enough.

In my case, my first attempt at smog check I left in my BMS DCI and just disabled my JB4 (left installed) immediatly before I went on the rollers. I passed emissions, but failed readiness test because my car needed to drive around on stock configuration for a while. The technician was nice enough to pass my DCI even though he wasn't supposed to because they aren't CARB certified. I came back a week later driving on Map0 (JB4 disabled) and stock intake for about a week and passed every test with flying colors.

Good luck!

Thanks for the tip, I def plan to drive it for 50+ miles after resetting ECU to get it electronics stable. I put stock cats and intake back in and still failed. However, I think I found another possibility:

I just realized that when I replaced my tail lights in the past, I realized a cable was disconnected from previous owner. I realized this is the exhaust sound mod, alternative of golf tee mod.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80661

Could having that cable disconnected be the root cause? I'm pretty sure it is now so I'll reconnect it tomorrow and drive up to SJ for maybe another test. I already put the emissions formula fuel additive in the car.

[Spectre]

You're welcome.

The exhaust flap mod or whatever the kids are calling it nowadays probably doesn't have anything to do with pass/failing. BUT I did connect mine before my test just to make sure. Go ahead and plug it in. Couldn't hurt anything.

[Dark_Knight_335]

Downpipes too?

[Curt]

Originally Posted by Dark_Knight_335

Downpipes too?

I had AR catless dps but I put the stock back in a month ago for smog..

[AXS-7]

Smog techs are not created equal. Perhaps you might wanna take it to a reputable smog shop. All Smogs in Dublin is excellent. My mechanic recommended them to me a while back. Brad is very knowledgeable when it comes to emission testing. You can ask him to run pre-test to determine wheter or not you'll pass prior to performing an actual test. I'm not at all affiliated, just a very satisfied customer.

[Curt]

Originally Posted by AXS-7

Smog techs are not created equal. Perhaps you might wanna take it to a reputable smog shop. All Smogs in Dublin is excellent. My mechanic recommended them to me a while back. Brad is very knowledgeable when it comes to emission testing. You can ask him to run pre-test to determine wheter or not you'll pass prior to performing an actual test. I'm not at all affiliated, just a very satisfied customer.

Yeah the last shop I failed at said to bring it in for pre test next time, he stalled the 15mph test for me 3 times to warm the cats more. How much do people usually charge for a pre test?

[AXS-7]

Originally Posted by Curt

Yeah the last shop I failed at said to bring it in for pre test next time, he stalled the 15mph test for me 3 times to warm the cats more. How much do people usually charge for a pre test?

All Smogs never charged me for the pre-test

[ken1137]

Frickin CA. GL OP!

[Curt]

Test 04/12/2014 PASS

• IDLE @ 732 RPM: 92 (Max: 100)
• Neutral @ 2500 RPM: 68 (Max: 130)

Changes: Added the CRC Guaranteed to Pass Fuel Formula; Plugged in vacuum connector that was previously removed for exhaust sound mod; Drove car for longer distance, kept car running @ smog shop. Smog shop also performed an idle emission test compared to dyno.

Conclusion: I've just barely passed, it could be anything. Not sure if the fuel additives helped, I haven't run through the whole tank before retaking test. The test I've taken this time was also an emissions test from idle, as compared to the dyno/speed tests, not sure if that was the case. Just glad to have passed, not looking forward to 2 years later though.

[tomchang75]

Hi fellow Beemers

Has anyone done golf tee mod either old method or unplug the wire in the trunk and went for california emission test? Did the test pass or fail? advise please.