[mlifxs]

Okay, so I've removed the OEM guide rod on my car, trying to put the M3 (TRW) part on. Having problems attaching on the hub end. I'm a noob so there is nothing I'm not capable of screwing up

Did any of you find this to be even a little bit tricky? I cannot get the bolt far enough through to attach the fastener on the other end. Tried plenty of anti-seize on the bolt and lifting the hub in different positions only to fall short. Bolt peeks through but not far enough to get the fastener on.

Without the guide rod, the bolt will thread through the carrier, so no damage to the female threads on the hub end.

Any trick to supporting the hub / suspension to get things aligned properly? Is there any trick to the triangular bracket at the head of the bolt? Any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance!

[Casca]

Do you mean you can't get the bolt started on the thread or are you actually saying you can't push the bolt through the guide rod far enough?

I am going to assume you just mean you can't get the thread started.

First make sure you are putting the arm in correctly. I think the arch for the guide rod is down, but one way to be sure is the end that goes on the subframe should be flat on both side of the bushing. On the end that mounts to the wheel carrier, there should be a flat side and a convex side. The convex side should of course face the concaved mounting of the wheel carrier.

Other than that, it's just angles. You'll need to line it up perfectly to get the thread started. Keep playing with positioning and even twisting how ever you see fit to get the arm to seat perfectly. Jack up the carrier from different areas to try to twist it just right so the convex side seats exactly with the concaved side. I think I had one arm where I had a lot of trouble and it was the last arm I had to get on. I ended up taking unbolting the other arms (except the lower camber/strut mount) and attaching the problem arm o first and then the rest of the arms after that with no problems.

Also, I wouldn't put anti-seize on fasteners for suspension work. I'd use medium strength thread-lock.

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by Casca

Do you mean you can't get the bolt started on the thread or are you actually saying you can't push the bolt through the guide rod far enough?

I am going to assume you just mean you can't get the thread started.

First make sure you are putting the arm in correctly. I think the arch for the guide rod is down, but one way to be sure is the end that goes on the subframe should be flat on both side of the bushing. On the end that mounts to the wheel carrier, there should be a flat side and a convex side. The convex side should of course face the concaved mounting of the wheel carrier.

Other than that, it's just angles. You'll need to line it up perfectly to get the thread started. Keep playing with positioning and even twisting how ever you see fit to get the arm to seat perfectly. Jack up the carrier from different areas to try to twist it just right so the convex side seats exactly with the concaved side. I think I had one arm where I had a lot of trouble and it was the last arm I had to get on. I ended up taking unbolting the other arms (except the lower camber/strut mount) and attaching the problem arm o first and then the rest of the arms after that with no problems.

Also, I wouldn't put anti-seize on fasteners for suspension work. I'd use medium strength thread-lock.

First, thanks for responding. I've been looking a little closer, there is no such fastener on the other side, got confused on some of the parts I removed along with my replacement parts. I am able to thread through and see a small part of the bolt peek through (maybe a thread or two at most). Bottom line, took a look at the other side, realized my screw-up.

I did have the part positioned right, it's just a really tight fit that needs to be worked with. It's the only arm I'm changing so there's not much tolerance to work with.

Thanks for the thread lock tip.

Soooo...I'm a noob and a bit of a dumbass once I start to work up a sweat. Hopefully it goes better from here.

[mlifxs]

Originally Posted by Casca

Do you mean you can't get the bolt started on the thread or are you actually saying you can't push the bolt through the guide rod far enough?

I am going to assume you just mean you can't get the thread started.

First make sure you are putting the arm in correctly. I think the arch for the guide rod is down, but one way to be sure is the end that goes on the subframe should be flat on both side of the bushing. On the end that mounts to the wheel carrier, there should be a flat side and a convex side. The convex side should of course face the concaved mounting of the wheel carrier.

Other than that, it's just angles. You'll need to line it up perfectly to get the thread started. Keep playing with positioning and even twisting how ever you see fit to get the arm to seat perfectly. Jack up the carrier from different areas to try to twist it just right so the convex side seats exactly with the concaved side. I think I had one arm where I had a lot of trouble and it was the last arm I had to get on. I ended up taking unbolting the other arms (except the lower camber/strut mount) and attaching the problem arm o first and then the rest of the arms after that with no problems.

Also, I wouldn't put anti-seize on fasteners for suspension work. I'd use medium strength thread-lock.

Got it done, just got back from a test drive, happy with the results.

Thanks again.