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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Safest and most effective means in which to raise an E90 and work underneath.
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11-26-2013, 09:49 AM | #1 |
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Safest and most effective means in which to raise an E90 and work underneath.
What seems to be such a simple question, “How to raise a car and suspend it on jack stands?” has many different tactics.
This question is for those who feel confident in raising an E90 (325xi in my case) without damaging it, and making sure you’re safe underneath. Where is the best jacking point in the rear? Is it really safe to jack it from the rear diff? It seems like there is too much of a risk of damaging the drivetrain by putting weight on it… Are there any special jack stands that adapt to the rectangular jack points on the sides? It seems like a standard jack stand wouldn’t be able to support the weight in a stable fashion, as it would never line up with the rectangular point. Any thoughts on this? Is there anyway to modify an existing jack stand ie grind it down? Does anybody have experience with wooden blocks for the wheels? Like I said, I know this I trivial, but a standard walkthrough that is commonly agreed upon would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Gunnar |
11-26-2013, 09:57 AM | #3 |
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You really only want to jack up the car from these four points
I personally would only do either the fronts or the backs for the safety. If you need to get under, this is the best method if you cant get your hands on a lift.
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11-26-2013, 10:32 AM | #5 |
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I would hate to get crushed by a car for any reason, but for a ~$200 install I would consider it needless and can't live with myself for risking my safety and ability to be there as long as possible for my kids. I just talked myself out of the downpipe DIY on Friday for this very reason.
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11-26-2013, 10:59 AM | #6 |
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Last time I changed the oil, I used hockey pucks on the rear jack points. The front was on rhino ramps. The hockey pucks work fine. If I remember correctly there is a jack point in front or behind the differential. Having a low profile jack (I got mine at Costco) helps.
I drove the front onto the ramps, then used the low profile jack to lift the rear. Used the hockey pucks in between the car jack points and the jack stands. Last edited by mansito; 11-26-2013 at 11:27 AM.. |
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11-26-2013, 11:45 AM | #8 |
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Ramps
If I'm changing the oil, I just use my ramps. They are far more stable than any stand. Because of the low air dams, you usually have to place a 2x6 or two to extend/assist driving up on them. Make sure you're totally up on them and the tires are entirely in the cutout (usually scalloped to help prevent roll-back). Block the wheels still on the ground, use Park (or leave in gear), and use your parking brakes. Ramps tend to slip (when driving up onto them) when they're on smoothly-finished garage floors; better to use on rough-finish driveways.
If you need the entire car up, use ramps for one end and then jack up the other and place jack stands there. I always leave the floor jack under some point as a backup to the stands (as someone else said.) In addition to the jacking points (which I use for my floor jack), the bushings where the suspension attaches to the sub-frame (front or rear) are also safe IMO to put jack stands under. The top of my stands has a cradle that cups the bushing quite well and prevents any chance of slipping. Also, note that those bushings are more fore-aft than the jacking points and gives a broader fore-aft support than the jacking points. Jacking under the rear differential is IMO ok. YMMV. If I'm changing tire sets (winter to summer), I just do one corner at a time; easier and faster than jacking front or rear or side completely. Rotating tires front-to-rear, yeah, you have to do one side, but who rotates their tires? Do not use concrete blocks as a substitute for stands; they break. Blocks of wood can be used, but they should not be in several separate pieces stacked up (unless nailed so it's essentially solid.) They should be about as wide as they are tall. Serious DIY'ers have lifts in their garage. |
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11-26-2013, 12:20 PM | #9 |
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I've had to do some work on my 330xi while at college so I just bought a really good low profile jack and hit the jack points on the corners, usually works well for something at a specific wheel. For oil changes and general front end under engine work, ramps work really well, and they aren't too expensive. Be sure to block wheels that aren't off the ground, set your parking brake and I generally put my car in gear. I feel safe with this kind of a setup.
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11-26-2013, 12:27 PM | #10 |
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OP, this topic has been discussed hundreds of times on the Forum. There are numerous threads on the topic in the DIY section all the way back to 2006. BMW has a specific procedure for lifting the E90 using a floor jack (trolley jack in BMW speak). Many members have shared the BMW procedure in the DIY section. The rear diff (iron case - not the aluminum cover) is the rear center jack point. The front crossmember is the front jackpoint. Search on "Trolley" in the DIY section and you'll find the BMW procedure from the BMW TIS. It's all you need to know.
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11-26-2013, 01:02 PM | #11 |
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This car has made me want a lift more than any other...
The only safe points to lift the vehicle. Use a jack-point adapter to avoid damaging the side points. Hopefully this monster fits underneath the E92; it was a bit of a trick with my previous G8. Last edited by orneryduck; 11-26-2013 at 01:23 PM.. |
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11-26-2013, 02:11 PM | #12 |
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Do NOT preload the jack if you are using ratcheting type jack stands. It's alright to leave it extended as a backup, but don't have it supporting any of the vehicle's weight.
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11-26-2013, 02:14 PM | #13 |
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Good point, forgot to clarify that you let it down onto jack stands, then stop it. Just shy of touching the car/bearing weight.
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11-26-2013, 03:17 PM | #16 |
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Thanks for all of the great advice. The purpose of my question pertains to a differential fluid change, both front and rear (x-drive).
Where exactly should one lift at the rear differential, it states not to do so at the diff cover; what is the diff cover, and where is the proper jacking point? Thanks again! |
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11-26-2013, 05:22 PM | #17 |
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So if i want to jack up the rear, i would use a jack at the rear differential?
As for the jack stands, do they need an adapter as well? I've seen many pictures and posts of the jack pad adapter (or use of a hockey puck) but what about 'jack stand' adapters? |
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11-26-2013, 08:50 PM | #18 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
The illustration I provided shows the differential from the side. The housing is iron (painted with black enamel, ferrous) while the rear cover is aluminum (bright metal, non-ferrous). Additionally the rear cradle (sub-frame) can be used if your jack will clear the surrounding components and has enough lift. Sub-frame crossbar is circled in red: Check out this thread for more details: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=397379 |
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11-26-2013, 09:15 PM | #19 | |
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11-27-2013, 11:18 AM | #21 | |
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11-27-2013, 12:22 PM | #22 |
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