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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > NA Engine (non-turbo) / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > Recently got a 325i... This tranny is confusing me...



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      11-16-2005, 09:06 PM   #1
850CSi
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Recently got a 325i... This tranny is confusing me...

Okay, I got a 325i a couple weeks back. It's got around 800 miles on it now, but I'm still having a tough time getting used to the transmission. (I really love the car, BTW)

I mean, right when I first drove it, I appreciate the way the shifter and clutch operated, but I'm still learning...


That's mainly because my first car that I drove for a year and became perfect on was an A4 quattro 5MT, and, as many of you would probably know, AWD cars require a slightly different launching and 1-2 shifting process. The Audi also had 90K miles and was a 1.8 Turbo. I don't like to brag, but I mastered that car to the point where people who were with me for the first time would never even think that the car wasn't an automatic. I could shift clutch-less without anyone but me sensing it.

So I knew all along that driving a brand-new RWD NA Inline-6 was going to be different. Especially on a car that wasn't broken-in.



So...

1) The Bimmer idles a good 300 RPM lower than the A4 did. The clutch's friction point is also a lot higher up. I've noticed that the first inch or so of [gas] pedal travel really doesn't do much for you. This combo makes launching the car a little difficult at first.
What's the best method to launch this thing?
How high should I let my RPM get before releasing my clutch completely in order to make a smooth launch but avoid any damage (I really want this clutch to LAST)?
Any other tips?


2) The 1-2 shift is something I'm having a hard time mastering, again in part because of the clutch's friction point (and the fact that dress shoes are a B**** to drive with). I typically used to redline the Audi, or shift around 3500-4000 RPM in normal driving. No matter how hard I try, a shift at those levels is resulting in a bit of shaking in the Bimmer. Am I used to shifting that high because of the Audi's turbo lag? Maybe around 2500 RPM in the Bimmer to eliminate that problem?


3) I've heard that releasing the clutch too fast after a shift (especially a 1-2) without at least slowing for the friction point first is really hard on the clutch plate. Is that true? What's the best way to make quick shifts?


4) Is some of this happening because the car is still at 800 miles and not completely broken in?


Any help would be REALLY appreciated, because I want to be able to make fast, smooth shifts to prolong my clutch's life and make driving stick second-nature like it used to be for me.

I've tried searching around (in forums and on google) but I'm not finding a lot...

Thanks
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      11-17-2005, 12:21 AM   #2
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Ok let me tell u first that i am no expert when it comes to driving a clutch, especially since when i got this car it was the first time i had driven a clutch in two years. When i first got the car though it didnt take long at all to get adjusted to the shifting and the amt. of pressure needed on the clutch. When shifting from first to second i let it get to about 3500rpm. 2 to 3 around 3000rpm. Now from 3rd to fourth i give it some extra gas sometimes especially if im about to get on the beltway. I do this simply bc of the lack of power in fifth and especially in 6th(overdrive). Since u just got ur car i wouldnt allow the revolutions to exceed 4000 simply bc the parts are new and u dont wanna risk anything. Now to answer u on the releasing of the clutch when in reverse to first u wanna be careful not to let go too quick, otherwise the car will jerk some. I always but now unconsiously while releasing press the clutch back in some just to make sure that the engine is recieving enough power. The same goes along with going into second but not as much slight pressing back down on the clutch. From third gear on, u should be fine. Trust me from what i have heard this clutch is suppose to be very driver friendly as well as durable, so if u mess up dont trip. Oh i also hear that second gear has the most torque. Hope this helps.
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      11-17-2005, 12:24 AM   #3
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oh yeah when im tryin to make quick shifts i step on the clutch alittle b4 i take my foot off the gas then after changing gears when i am putting my foot back on the gas i hit it right as im taking my fot off the clutch, but ur timing must be ok bc otherwise u will just rev the engine if ur foot is still on the clutch.
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      11-17-2005, 01:20 AM   #4
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maybe try getting a cdv, clutch stop and a short shifter.......
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      11-17-2005, 01:25 AM   #5
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Yeah, I read up on the topic (finally found some stuff after a long search)

I'm seriously thinking now about swapping the CDV.

Thing is, would I be able to swap the factory one back in if the car needed tranny work?

Today I actually had to floor it out of the toll booth (was nearly at rest) and I did a near-redline shift really fast from 1-2 and let off the clutch really fast (btw, my tires chirped... I get the feeling this thing can hit 60 in the mid-6s easy if not faster), something that would cause a lot of other cars to sustain clutch damage and rock. But the shift actually turned out very smooth...

It seems like BMW wants you to shift that way and has embedded a mechanism to make sure that that kind of driving doesn't damage the tranny.
However, it sounds too good to be true.

See, the problem is, I don't want to be concentrating on smooth shifts. It HAS to become second nature like it was before or I won't even think twice about throwing that piece of junk CDV out of my car.
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      08-10-2006, 12:23 AM   #6
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i need to research a "CDV"
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      08-10-2006, 03:54 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 850CSi
Yeah, I read up on the topic (finally found some stuff after a long search)

I'm seriously thinking now about swapping the CDV.

Thing is, would I be able to swap the factory one back in if the car needed tranny work?

Today I actually had to floor it out of the toll booth (was nearly at rest) and I did a near-redline shift really fast from 1-2 and let off the clutch really fast (btw, my tires chirped... I get the feeling this thing can hit 60 in the mid-6s easy if not faster), something that would cause a lot of other cars to sustain clutch damage and rock. But the shift actually turned out very smooth...

It seems like BMW wants you to shift that way and has embedded a mechanism to make sure that that kind of driving doesn't damage the tranny.
However, it sounds too good to be true.

See, the problem is, I don't want to be concentrating on smooth shifts. It HAS to become second nature like it was before or I won't even think twice about throwing that piece of junk CDV out of my car.
I have driven manuals for about 17 years ... BMW manuals for the last 8 of those.

The clutches and gearboxes in BMWs tend to be quite tight and heavy, especially when new. They respond well to competant but aggressive driving and tend to loosen up a bit over the first 20,000 miles or so. The gear selector though will also feel very direct, tight and precise compared to other cars - which is great if you want to really drive the car.

Getting a smooth shift - especially on an upshift is all about the way in which you release the clutch. My guess would be that because the clutch is heavy, you may be releasing it with a little bit of a 'jerk' around the bite point.

Relax - you aren't going to damage the clutch in normal use - just play around until you really 'feel' the point at which the clutch engages and the point at which the accelerator input starts to pick up.

Then practice balancing the pedal action around these points - so as you come of the gas, start dropping the clutch so that by the time you hit the bite, you are all the way of the gas and not 'free reving'.

You should be able to change smoothly in this way, but I think your objective - to change gear like an auto - is the wrong one. The auto in my 530d is so smooth you can hardly tell when it changes gear ... there isn't any real advantage to this and (IMO).

As to launching - the theory would be to rev to the point at which your car delivers maximum torque then pop the clutch (drop it quickly to the bite, then control the final release to avoid it jerking). If the car wheelspins excessively then it will help to ease off slightly on the throttle (for a split second) until traction picks up then get back onto full throttle immediately.

If you can't control the wheelspin, then reduce the initial revs until you can

A lot of track cars won't even let you pull away below about 4000rpm - they'll just stall. Reving a car hard and controlling it's speed with the clutch (when pulling away in 1st) will not damage the clutch components.

The one thing that will damage the clutch is resting your foot on it whilst cruising.
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      08-11-2006, 02:51 PM   #8
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Not sure about the E90, but my E46 is geared where you don't even have to give any throttle when shifting into first. 1-2 "lazy" shift can be done with no jerking @2-2.5k rpms.

1-2 shift is much easier when not doing jackrabbit starts.
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      08-14-2006, 11:44 AM   #9
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Let it break in. The trans loosens up quite a bit after 2000 miles or so. Keep in mind your max redline before 1200 mile should only be 4500 RPM. I launch my car at about 1200 RPM bringing up the revs while letting the clutch out.

I've driven an Audi '03 R4 turbo. It had a weird gearbox and clutch. Give the 325i some time. You'll get used to it. The 325i shifts as good as any BMW I've had before.
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