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Rear Turbo intake question Need HELP!!
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05-26-2012, 08:26 AM | #1 |
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Rear Turbo intake question Need HELP!!
So I am in the process of doing some much needed maintenance/upgrades. And one of the things on my list is changing the clutch/flywheel. Yesterday I got the trans off and clutch changed but I noticed that the rear turbo intake piping was not seated on the turbo very well and has a little bit of oil around it. I am not sure if it is supposed to look like this but it sure as hell does not look right. I checked on real OEM and it doesn't show a clamp or anything so I am hoping that some of you guys may be able to shed some light on this for me. I have a best picture I could get attached, it's a very tight space. I am going to start putting my shocks on before I mount the trans back, so hopefully one of you guys can tell me something because I really don't want to put the car back together and just ignore this. Thanks!
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05-26-2012, 08:49 AM | #2 |
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There is a rubber seal that goes on under it.
i ordered it and replaced it, and the pipe slid off after a while. It's a pain to work with and I gave up on it after getting it somewhat close bending the support bar thats behind it to get it closer. If I had more time with it I would have just put a silicone coupler there. #10 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...r+turbo+intake Last edited by Rotorocious; 05-26-2012 at 08:58 AM.. |
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05-26-2012, 09:19 AM | #3 |
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The rubber seal has lots of tall "ribs" or flaps that seal the plastic pipe to the inlet of the turbo. It is simply a push-on friction fit, nothing special. That portion of the intake is only under vacuum/suction, so there is no worry about the pipe blowing off.
That oil is coming from the main valve cover PCV vent. There is a heating element and I believe possibly a vacuum limiter in the small 1" pipe that connects the turbo inlet pipe to the VC. Try replacing that 1" pipe (about $40 IIRC), easy job from the top of the engine once the cowl is off. Clean off the turbo inlet with some brake cleaner and monitor. All I did was switch oil to Motul. The BMW oil is OK, but these higher oil pan temps cause cheaper oils and incorrect oil formulations (should be using ACEA A3 spec, not ACEA A1/A5 commonly used in domestic and Japanese economy cars) to vaporize badly. I've only added 1/2 liter in more than 10k miles.
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05-26-2012, 10:10 PM | #4 |
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Thanks for the help guys, since I need the car by the week I had to put it back together. I will have to dedicate another weekend changing those.
On the up side, the car has a new clutch and shocks and seems to be running just fine.
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