[n54dragon]

Hey all, at dealer today for warranty work and they performed a boost test, came up at 4lbs (they said stock reading should be 8). NO codes or faults came up. They did a vacuum test and all was good, no leaks. ANY THOUGHTS?

Its a 2008 335XI.

The car has a Dinan stage 2 intercooler, active BOV, dual cone intake.

The heartbreaker.... dme had to be re-flashed, car had Dinan stage 2 software that dealer refused to re-load b/c I didn't have receipt for install (I am second owner, previous guy never gave me receipt; I was too stupid to ask). Now its on factory settings... even worse with 4lbs of boost.

P.S. I am a noob to all this, sorry if I miss any obvious points. Just looking for guidance.

[zerep1]

It sounds like they didn't erase the dinan properly tell them to fix it erases the dme completely and reflash or find a dinan dealer they might be able to help you

[E90Company]

I am pretty sure the dinan goes through the VIN. Shouldn't they just be able to reflash it because it's in the computer?

[CUTigers]

Originally Posted by E90Company

I am pretty sure the dinan goes through the VIN. Shouldn't they just be able to reflash it because it's in the computer?

I think that is the case. Find a dinan dealer/shop. will cost you for a reflash though. Should just be their shop time for like 30 mins or so.

[n54dragon]

Thanks for the thoughts. Problem with reflash is that Dinan has no record of my VIN. Kinda think the Previous owner was not so detail oriented and didn't go through a Dinan authorized dealer nor did he keep receipts. Makes a big Problem for me now though. Car is sluggish as hell without software. I will start with telling the dealer to erase complete.... Then what!? Shouldn't boost be more than 4 lbs, even stock.

[idrift4wd]

Originally Posted by n54dragon

Thanks for the thoughts. Problem with reflash is that Dinan has no record of my VIN. Kinda think the Previous owner was not so detail oriented and didn't go through a Dinan authorized dealer nor did he keep receipts. Makes a big Problem for me now though. Car is sluggish as hell without software. I will start with telling the dealer to erase complete.... Then what!? Shouldn't boost be more than 4 lbs, even stock.

yea it should be 8-9psi, well they should fix your car first. i wouldnt take my car back after a reflash that made it a snail. and it really sucks you lose your dinan tune, but at least you can look into other tunes which will provide more HP/TQ. of course after your car issue is solved.

[n54dragon]

What software other than Dinan is a good one, given the mods I already have? Obviously after I get low boost issue under control.

[secretsquirrel]

If your Dinan is gone, grab a Cobb, JB4 or Procede. You'll have to do your research on which one of the products you want. You'll be gaining hp over the Dinan stage 2 and you'll have the ability to load your own maps.

[PeteW84]

Originally Posted by n54dragon

What software other than Dinan is a good one, given the mods I already have? Obviously after I get low boost issue under control.

Go with COBB. You can use Stage 1+ with your mods.

[idrift4wd]

Originally Posted by n54dragon

What software other than Dinan is a good one, given the mods I already have? Obviously after I get low boost issue under control.

Giac, renntech, cobb, procede, and BMS Juice box4.

giac and renntech are flashes like dinan. Cobb is also a flash via small controller called an accessport.

procede and JB4 are piggybacks. both are packed with features and great options also.

imo procede is the way to go if you have the money. if not then JB4 or cobb. JB4 would be the cheaper of the two. what ever you pick, itll be alot better than dinan.

[n54dragon]

Once again, being new to this, I am amazed and appreciative of the response and support... Thank you all who have made suggestions. I will definitely look into those tunes.

From the research I have done in the forum, it seems waste gate may be a place to start, as I understand this may reduce boost pressure without storing codes...? Or has to be totally computer related b/c system has been smoke tested and all leaks addressed..... Am I correct?

[georgelb]

Originally Posted by n54dragon

Once again, being new to this, I am amazed and appreciative of the response and support... Thank you all who have made suggestions. I will definitely look into those tunes.

From the research I have done in the forum, it seems waste gate may be a place to start, as I understand this may reduce boost pressure without storing codes...? Or has to be totally computer related b/c system has been smoke tested and all leaks addressed..... Am I correct?

I'd think you'd get an underboost code if hardware were causing this. Also, if you haven't already done so, call Dinan directly, yourself, and see if they have a record of it on their end. If you can get it back for the price of a re-flash it really isn't a bad tune; I ran with it for a couple of years and it is an all around great tune, just much tamer than the others that are available, which is by design.

[old account 2]

Originally Posted by n54dragon

What software other than Dinan is a good one, given the mods I already have? Obviously after I get low boost issue under control.

I think you will find that our software will most resemble the smoothness and reliability of your Dinan flash, albeit with more power. Dinan re-flashes the entire DME and we are the only company of those mentioned that also does this.

Feel free to PM me if you would like to discuss your application in more detail.

[old account 2]

Originally Posted by n54dragon

Once again, being new to this, I am amazed and appreciative of the response and support... Thank you all who have made suggestions. I will definitely look into those tunes.

From the research I have done in the forum, it seems waste gate may be a place to start, as I understand this may reduce boost pressure without storing codes...? Or has to be totally computer related b/c system has been smoke tested and all leaks addressed..... Am I correct?

A data log of your car would give you a very accurate representation of what is going on. I'm not sure where you are located, but I can see if there is a shop nearby that has a Bavarian Technic.

This would allow you to read your boost requests and actual, as well as your wastegate duty cycle. Then we could see if it is something related to a leak, or if it is actually electronics related.

[E3r2E9r]

I would first get your car back to full operating power.
Then I would look into a new tune. Flash tunes are fine but I would get a handheld one like Cobb so your are not inconvenienced in the future.

Otherwise Vishnu Procede or Burger Tuning Jb4 are popular choices.
They all make similar power too, so its really a matter of preference.

Talk to Jeff@topgearsolutions he is a vendor on here and has all the popular tunes at great prices.

[woot335woot]

It looks like the dealer didn't do a boost leak test. Vacuum and boost leaks are different. If you have loose fitting IC piping, you are most likely leaking boost pressure when the pipes become pressurized with the forced air. A vacuum leak test wouldn't catch this.

There are numerous DIY boost leak tests out there. I'd say start there before blaming the electronics.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by E3r2E9r

I would first get your car back to full operating power.
Then I would look into a new tune. Flash tunes are fine but I would get a handheld one like Cobb so your are not inconvenienced in the future.

Otherwise Vishnu Procede or Burger Tuning Jb4 are popular choices.
They all make similar power too, so its really a matter of preference.

Talk to Jeff@topgearsolutions he is a vendor on here and has all the popular tunes at great prices.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by woot335woot

It looks like the dealer didn't do a boost leak test. Vacuum and boost leaks are different. If you have loose fitting IC piping, you are most likely leaking boost pressure when the pipes become pressurized with the forced air. A vacuum leak test wouldn't catch this.

There are numerous DIY boost leak tests out there. I'd say start there before blaming the electronics.

I agree.

A true boost leak test pressurizes the system to atleast 15-20 PSI. A smoke test or vaccum test doesn't do anything on a boosted platform unless its pressurized.

I would look at connections the front mount intercooler, charge pipe, throttle body, and any vacuum lines associated, first.

But, if the car is not throwing codes I would imagine it is not getting a good reading at the TMAP, so I would look into cleaning that before I do anything.

If you go WOT and underboost for 3-4 seconds you should throw a code.

If the car is under warranty I would just go back to the dealer and say something aint right.

[n54dragon]

Thanks for the suggestions. I will definitely look into the boost test; but what is a smoke test? Is it a vacuum related test? Because they said they did a smoke test, I am just unfamiliar with what they are testing with a smoke test.

@Thomas -- I am located in the Westchester county, new york / fairfield county, connecticut region. There is a popular shop around here called Auto Technic in New MIlford, CT.... any chance they would have the equipment you speak of to diagnose this?

What website would have the tunes for reasonable prices? ...just in case I strike out with Dinan.

[n54dragon]

@Jeff -- Thanks for the input. It does have warranty left, and I am currently scheduling an appt with the dealer insisting that "something aint right"! I am hoping they are not going to play the game with me that it has a BOV and dual cone intake... that is not a BMW approved product, therefore I am S.O.L.! When I get home I will attempt WOT for as long as I can to try and force a code... hopefully giving the dealer something to chew on.

How do I clean a TMAP? (sorry.... noob!)

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by n54dragon

@Jeff -- Thanks for the input. It does have warranty left, and I am currently scheduling an appt with the dealer insisting that "something aint right"! I am hoping they are not going to play the game with me that it has a BOV and dual cone intake... that is not a BMW approved product, therefore I am S.O.L.! When I get home I will attempt WOT for as long as I can to try and force a code... hopefully giving the dealer something to chew on.

How do I clean a TMAP? (sorry.... noob!)

You would need to remove the pipe that connects to the throttle body. You would need to purchase a cleaner at a local auto parts store. Honestly, if your not sure I wouldnt touch anything and just bring it back to dealer.

If you need a stock intake and stock charge pipe with stock diverter valves I have brand new ones I can sell you. Shoot me an email if your interested Sales@topgearsolutions.com

You can also visit my site for all other products if any interest you including tunes.

[old account 2]

Originally Posted by n54dragon

Thanks for the suggestions. I will definitely look into the boost test; but what is a smoke test? Is it a vacuum related test? Because they said they did a smoke test, I am just unfamiliar with what they are testing with a smoke test.

@Thomas -- I am located in the Westchester county, new york / fairfield county, connecticut region. There is a popular shop around here called Auto Technic in New MIlford, CT.... any chance they would have the equipment you speak of to diagnose this?

What website would have the tunes for reasonable prices? ...just in case I strike out with Dinan.

I haven't worked with Auto Technic, so I'm honestly not too familiar with them. It sounds like you might be near CIM Motorsports in Central Valley though, so I can call over there and see if they have the BT if you'd like.

[n54dragon]

All, thanks much for the worthwhile input. The plan is just this... Have an appt at dealer next week for warranty work. Low boost is the priority to fix. Seems like I am outta luck on a tune so will be looking into 1 after my appt. Goal is to get this thing running at the factory 8-9psi of boost, then start from square 1 with a tune.

Given that I am broke, the JB system looks most economical. Is there a huge performance diff between the JB+ stage 2 and JB4 stage 3? Can I run a JB4 stage 3 without an exhaust mod? Kinda liking the $ of a JB+ stage 2, but not sure if I will regret not spending the extra 200 clams.