[Randomaccess335]

With so many people talking about fires possibly due to meth I thinking I should put a tank in the trunk.

I know I need a tank, tap, and more hose.
What else will I need?

Can I leave the pump under the hood?

If I take my car in for dealer visits should I remove the meth line running to the trunk?

Ty,
R

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Depending on the tank you use you will need to put the pump under the tank. You should always remove modifications for dealer visits.

[sA x sKy]

Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions

Depending on the tank you use you will need to put the pump under the tank. You should always remove modifications for dealer visits.

Terry on N54Tech said that he didn't recommend keeping the pump under the hood if going trunk mount..what are your thoughts? I think it's that much extra $$$ to move all that wiring around which is making me think twice.

[335okc]

i'm trying to understand the logic behind pump below the tank. if the tap is on the bottom of the tank and you have a check valve, why would you need the pump to be below tank?

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by sA x sKy

Terry on N54Tech said that he didn't recommend keeping the pump under the hood if going trunk mount..what are your thoughts? I think it's that much extra $$$ to move all that wiring around which is making me think twice.

Originally Posted by 335okc

i'm trying to understand the logic behind pump below the tank. if the tap is on the bottom of the tank and you have a check valve, why would you need the pump to be below tank?

I think everyone is making this a little hard then it has to be.

At the end of the day your methanol setup is the same no matter where it is.

There is a pump taking in methanol from a tank, and sending methanol to a nozzle in your charge pipe.




Note: This check valve was later removed and a solenoid was fitted in the engine bay, where it is suppose to be. (12 inches from the nozzle or less).

We've been using methanol on this platform since 2009. This is your basic coolingmist and devils own kit. This is how all the guys including Terry use to run his methanol. Although I think he used a coolingmist 1.5 gallon trunk mount tank which I didnt like because I had air problems.

All you need to do is a trunk mounted setup with pump in the trunk. Implement whatever failsafe and flow sensor you want and your are good to go.

This methodology can be transferred with any kit.

The cost to do this can be done for under $100 easily and here are the benefits:

Less risk of fire
Less risk of pump failure (heat in the engine bay does not help pump life)
Keep methanol temperature down( Methanol has a low boil temp and it will be much cooler in the trunk)

The downsides... a few extra dollars for safety and peace of mind. The possibility of spending another 30 minutes to an hour for peace of mind.

The tank is around $40 and the line.

As far as why the pump must be mounted below tank, these pumps do not have the "sucking" power to pull meth. The inlet side of the pump works at under 50 PSI, the outlet works at 150+ PSI.

If you mount your pump above the tank you will run into problems of inconsistency and air in the lines.

The only reason the WW tank setups work with the pump mounted above is because of the check valve located in the WW line that keeps the methanol above the pump theoretically.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Here are some easy options for you guys:

Coolingmist Tank

Pump mounts at the bottom of this tank. Clean install.

Devils own Tank

Pump mounts on the side and the pick up is at the bottom side of tank.
This is also baffled and sumped which means minimal chance of air.

Devils own Race tank

This 2.25 Gallon tank from DevilsOwn is the first water-methanol tank with a built in sump and fluid control baffle. This eliminates the pickup being uncovered during sprinted driving. Features a flush mount fuel cell lid. Because of the tanks quality design and it featuring a real sump in it, you can run the tank down to approximately 1 qt of fluid before uncovering the pickup. This tank is made with 1/4" thick HDPE, which is the same material and construction that is commonly used in manufacturing fuel cells.
Dimensions are 13.5" x 8" x 8.5". It's best suited for trunk placement.
This tank features a 3" opening for easy fill up. This tank can be used for any alcohol water mixtures. It's 100% methanol compatible. Tanks design also allows for proper ventilation for the pump heat. Vented cap and mounting straps are included. This tank does not come with drain fitting. We recommend our self sealing bulkhead and float switch.
Does include aluminum mounting straps and hardware for mounting tank to floor.

Devils own/CM Basic 4 Quart Tank


All you need to do is mount the pump below the tank. Call it a day.

These options will work with anyone with the BMS WW kit.

All you need to do is move your pump, add the tank, add the lines.
For tapping the tank you can use something as simple as 1/4 Barbed fitting from home depot.



or



I had great success with the basic brass fitting.

You need about 15 feet at a minimum for tubing.

All of this stuff is avail on my site.

[F80M]

Op, I'm going to jack your thread right now...

For pump locations: inside engine bay vs trunk...

Does the pump generate the same flow pressure measuring from the tip of nozzle?
Is there a delay time fully meth flow response different between the two pump locations?

From what I think...the methanol flow pressure of the pump coming from the trunk should be weaker than the pump locates inside the engine bay and closes to the nozzle...

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by 91Octane

Op, I'm going to jack your thread right now...

For pump locations: inside engine bay vs trunk...

Does the pump generate the same flow pressure measuring from the tip of nozzle?
Is there a delay time fully meth flow response different between the two pump locations?

From what I think...the methanol flow pressure of the pump coming from the trunk should be weaker than the pump locates inside the engine bay and closes to the nozzle...

With a solenoid it is a moot difference. The solenoid allows methanol to fill the line to that point. So whichever setup you have you are within inches of reaching the nozzles as your solenoid should be mounted a few inches from your nozzles.

With an empty line it will naturally take longer to fill 15 feet of line then say 6 feet of line but at the end of the day we all have solenoids inches from the nozzles so they both will have the same theoretical delay, inches.

A check valve works in the same way but it requires about 20 PSI to crack open which is why solenoids are better. Pressure should be constant relatively speaking.

[F80M]

Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions

With a solenoid it is a moot difference. The solenoid allows methanol to fill the line to that point. So whichever setup you have you are within inches of reaching the nozzles as your solenoid should be mounted a few inches from your nozzles.

With an empty line it will naturally take longer to fill 15 feet of line then say 6 feet of line but at the end of the day we all have solenoids inches from the nozzles so they both will have the same theoretical delay, inches.

A check valve works in the same way but it requires about 20 PSI to crack open which is why solenoids are better. Pressure should be constant relatively speaking.

Awesome response!

Thanks for clearing me up.

[scottp999]

Jeff,

Assuming people are using plastic tubing and the basic push in plastic connectors, do you have the time to do some pictures of what it takes to convert to better fittings and metal line, and then link to the supplies at your site? I have the desire to upgrade fittings and the fuel line, but I don't know what to buy to make it a simple conversion. I'm sure other people are in the same boat.

For example, I have the original vishnu pps system which came with labonte basic fittings, connectors, and fuel line.

Thanks,
Scott

[jpsimon]

and for us with the newest version of the PWM kit, which has compression fittings. I'd like to convert to full braided lines to/from pump just to be super safe

Originally Posted by scottp999

Jeff,

Assuming people are using plastic tubing and the basic push in plastic connectors, do you have the time to do some pictures of what it takes to convert to better fittings and metal line, and then link to the supplies at your site? I have the desire to upgrade fittings and the fuel line, but I don't know what to buy to make it a simple conversion. I'm sure other people are in the same boat.

For example, I have the original vishnu pps system which came with labonte basic fittings, connectors, and fuel line.

Thanks,
Scott

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by scottp999

Jeff,

Assuming people are using plastic tubing and the basic push in plastic connectors, do you have the time to do some pictures of what it takes to convert to better fittings and metal line, and then link to the supplies at your site? I have the desire to upgrade fittings and the fuel line, but I don't know what to buy to make it a simple conversion. I'm sure other people are in the same boat.

For example, I have the original vishnu pps system which came with labonte basic fittings, connectors, and fuel line.

Thanks,
Scott

The original vishnu PPS is just like the basic coolingmist and devils own kits (more or less).

This is all you should need:



This comes with everything needed to install stainless steel lines and AN fittings to your methanol injection system. Comes with bulkhead fitting for the tank 2 3/8Npt to -4 an fittings for the pump -4 check vavle and -4 nozzle holder. Comes with 3 Stainless steel lines 15' 3' and 8" piece are the default lengths. This is for a complete set, not just the outlet side of the pump.

The line sizes can be adjusted if you so inclined.

It would be best to verify that your pump fittings, nozzles, solenoids, and check valves are using the same threads for this kit.

With so many different setups its impossible to make one set. Some people mix and match hardware or add on things. Others have failsafes and flow sensors. You name it. Unfortunately, without having your car first hand I can't comment what will actually work for your setup.

If you do know what you need I can have devils own create a setup.

Just remember all you want to do is get from the Tank> to the Pump> then from the Pump Outlet to your >Failsafe Flow sensor and Solenoid/checkvalve> then to your nozzles.

With conversions I can't help, these easy my knowledge is with a brand new kit as I can offer a price break and I know it works with the kit. For anyone else they really need to understand their components and decide what they need.

We are not supposed to post actual links to our site here (from what I understand) unless its a for sale thread.

Just click BMW>E90>Methanol Injection on my site. I can also offer anything from coolingmist and devils own as an authorized dealer.

Originally Posted by jpsimon

and for us with the newest version of the PWM kit, which has compression fittings. I'd like to convert to full braided lines to/from pump just to be super safe

I've looked into the PWM kit stuff but from my understanding those pumps use their own unique fittings on the pump and the pump doesnt have any threads, is that correct?

[Joshboody]

Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions

With a solenoid it is a moot difference. The solenoid allows methanol to fill the line to that point. So whichever setup you have you are within inches of reaching the nozzles as your solenoid should be mounted a few inches from your nozzles.

With an empty line it will naturally take longer to fill 15 feet of line then say 6 feet of line but at the end of the day we all have solenoids inches from the nozzles so they both will have the same theoretical delay, inches.

A check valve works in the same way but it requires about 20 PSI to crack open which is why solenoids are better. Pressure should be constant relatively speaking.

If pump and solenoid are activated simultaneously then the solenoid is more for stopping flow then building pressure. But it shouldn't really matter with traditional flow sensor... with JB fsb, not so sure... pump distance could matter in switching maps.

On nozzle pressure this would decrease with increased distance from pump.... but with my flow readings trunk versus under hood it was negligible. Of course some of this had to do with rubber versus nylon hose routing.

[Joshboody]

I think the main issue with AN fittings is the pump head... looks like it's one piece and you can't change just the fittings.

[Randomaccess335]

Where is a good place to run the hose and wiring?

[Former_Boosted_IS]

Originally Posted by Joshboody

I think the main issue with AN fittings is the pump head... looks like it's one piece and you can't change just the fittings.

Surely there has to be a compression to AN connector. That would still eliminate a ton of the potential headaches in the engine bay where the heat is much higher. That is where I would be most concerned.

[BOosted335i]

Originally Posted by sA x sKy

Terry on N54Tech said that he didn't recommend keeping the pump under the hood if going trunk mount..what are your thoughts? I think it's that much extra $$$ to move all that wiring around which is making me think twice.

There is only the Meth line & red power to run from trunk to engine bay.then extend the black ground to - battery.that's it.I did mine last week.converted ww kit to trunk mount. I also mounted my tank same as Jeff@topgearsolutions.filling up no issues.I just lean seat forward enough where it doesn't fall.then use a funnel.done.

[BOosted335i]

Forgot to mention pump is there in trunk to.

[jpsimon]

The newest vishnu pump has these compression fittings. Can't they just be unscrewed and fitted with ones that braided lines could hook up to? Right? or is that easier than it really is? if it is that easy, does anyone happen to know the thread size?

[Joshboody]

Originally Posted by Former_Boosted_IS

Surely there has to be a compression to AN connector. That would still eliminate a ton of the potential headaches in the engine bay where the heat is much higher. That is where I would be most concerned.

most don't have compression though... if threads match simple. The push fittings look pressed in though.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Randomaccess335

Where is a good place to run the hose and wiring?

Under the car there are brake lines and fuel lines. Zip tie it in those locations.
Away from exhaust and suspension.

[Randomaccess335]

K thanks Jeff, I'll be in touch if I can't find a used tank.

And thanks for all the responses
This is just a thought right now cause I'm at the fire dept tonight.
Measure the space in behind the drivers side tail light to fit a tank.
and custom build a cover with same type of carpet used in the trunk to make it hidden or just do it like in Jeffs pic, to the back of the seat.