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[Car54]

Hey all,

I purchased a car with a set of Nutek 3pc wheels. The sizes are 19x9/10.5 and currently have good PS2's 275/285-30. The fronts are ballooning and the rears are stretched. The car's steering is less than agile, but the grip is great.

This stagger is a bit more than I like and really plan to use these tires on the street only. I thought about getting narrower front tires, but still don't like the stretched tire in the rear.

Had this crazy idea. How about swapping inner barrels from front to rear. This would net me a .5" increase and decrease in total width and keep the same appearance of stagger on the outside.

I talked to Nutek, found out that inner and outer are compatible, bolts are torqued to 32 ft/lb, and I'll need to RTV/silicon the inside joint and let cure for 24 hours.

Couple questions for the crowd.

• Does this sound do able for an avid DIY'er or am I asking for trouble?
• Do I need to get the tires dismounted or can I separate the wheels just buy deflating and undoing the bolts?
• Can I use my impact wrench to loosen the bolts? Any pattern to removing?
• Anything else besides a good cleaning should be done while they are apart?

Some pics of the mentioned wheels:

[Pcemkr]

Rebuilding modular wheels is pretty simple and if you prep, you shouldn't have any problems DIY.
You will need the tires dismounted. Removing the wheel bolts is easy, no impact necessary.
Watch these for disassembly/reassembly:
http://www.ccwheel.com/incs/technica...air_video.html
Use GE Silicone II from Home Depot/Lowe's for resealing
Torque wheel bolts in a cross pattern when reassembling

You'd have to give me the exact barrel, center/hub, and outer lip dimensions to calculate final offsets after swapping.

Good luck.

[Car54]

Originally Posted by Pcemkr

Rebuilding modular wheels is pretty simple and if you prep, you shouldn't have any problems DIY.
You will need the tires dismounted. Removing the wheel bolts is easy, no impact necessary.
Watch these for disassembly/reassembly:
http://www.ccwheel.com/incs/technica...air_video.html
Use GE Silicone II from Home Depot/Lowe's for resealing
Torque wheel bolts in a cross pattern when reassembling

You'd have to give me the exact barrel, center/hub, and outer lip dimensions to calculate final offsets after swapping.

Good luck.

Great info and great videos, thanks! What kind of impact torque wrench was that?!

Guess I should not cheap out and get the tires dismounted so I can deal directly with the seam. I read one site that said to lower airpressure and try to separate the peices and then add air if you can do it by hand.

I'm not concerned about offset as I have room on the inside and the outside of the fronts. The rears are just getting smaller.

Thanks again!

[Projekt_BooGie]

you have a 275 wheel on a 9" tire and 10.5" wheel on a 285 tire???

[Car54]

Originally Posted by ACEE

you have a 275 wheel on a 9" tire and 10.5" wheel on a 285 tire???

Front 275/30 on 19x9
Rear 285/30 on 19x10.5

Odd right?

[Projekt_BooGie]

Originally Posted by Car54

Front 275/30 on 19x9
Rear 285/30 on 19x10.5

Odd right?

yes super odd!!!! A 275 tires is NORMALLY meant for a 9.5" wider tire. But hey.....

[Car54]

Great...so I'm not alone in wanting to get this straightened out. The previous owner had it set up like that.

He also had 245/35 and 285/35 on the stock wheels...looked like a drag car with the ballons on the back.

[Litoflow]

honestly I do not recommend you run a 9.5" in the front and then a 10" in the rear. i would just do the fronts to 9.5" leaving rears as 10.5".

question though, are u autox this car or tracking it? if not i strongly encourage u to get new tires. there is no reason u should be using such a big tire up front. I highly doubt u are using that 275 up front to the fullest. if u dont believe me run ur car through white powder and look at the tire and the outer tread of the tire will still be black about 1.5". Also rule of thumbs, with tires always keep it with 20 intervals like 225/35 paired with a 245/35 or 255/35 paired with a 275/35. hope this helps

[Car54]

Thanks for your input Litoflow. I don't believe in your logic or rule of thumb unfortunately. I'm not really a fan of the way the PO set these wheels up, but for $100 and 3-4 hours of time, I can get them setup better than they were without spending $500+ for tires to replace ones that are about brand new.

Your tests for powder are useless as this only measures static camber.

Your 20 intervals is only right in that there's not much reason to spend money to get a close but not square tire setup <20mm.

When my rear tires wear out, I'll be moving the 275's to the back and install 255's in the front.

[Litoflow]

^^ok mr savvy.

aparently i do not know what im talking about but u are the one seeking help/others opinion. lol Maybe just maybe since i got little post count on here go check out screen name through google or my350z.com just saying...

[Pcemkr]

Originally Posted by Car54

Your tests for powder are useless as this only measures static camber.

Uhhh... wat.

[Car54]

Originally Posted by Litoflow

^^ok mr savvy.

aparently i do not know what im talking about but u are the one seeking help/others opinion. lol Maybe just maybe since i got little post count on here go check out screen name through google or my350z.com just saying...

I'm gspot35 over there...been a member since '04. I am a huge Nissan fan and recently is the first time since 1992 I don't have some Nissan in my garage.

I appreciate your comment, but yes I do (instruct) track and autox. Not this car, but I'm very familiar with the things you are saying, I just don't believe they are correct. I was asking for advice on modifying and dis/reassembly of 3 piece wheels....not for setup help.

Originally Posted by Pcemkr

Uhhh... wat.

wat?

[Pcemkr]

Originally Posted by Car54

wat?

Still shows contact patch

[Car54]

Sure, contact patch of a parked car. The contact patch is variable, and varies with driving conditions. I'm just not sure that it's a relevant test for anything.