[CCL]

Hi all,

I have really learned lots about washing techniques etc from this forum. So I am really grateful that this forum exists

Now back to the main question .After washing and sheeting water off the car, I would take my drying towel and slowly "dab" to dry the car instead of dragging the towel around to try prevent scratches/swirl marks. However, when it comes to waxing, which I do by hand, I would be applying a considerable amount of force when applying the wax and removing wax residues later on. I realized that I do need to use a great amount of force to remove wax residues or they would dry up looking like scratches on the paint.

Thus, doesn't it defeats the whole purpose of dabbing the car dry when the next step (waxing) is so "harsh"?

My other concern is that I read that you should not be waxing your car in circular motion to avoid swirls. But if you are using a machine to wax your car, isn't it circular as well?

Thanks!

[Envious Eric]

you dont need to work in a wax, you just need to lay it on, so therefore, there is no force.

circular or straight line swipes, doesnt matter.

I think you are over thinking things here

[CCL]

Originally Posted by Envious Eric

you dont need to work in a wax, you just need to lay it on, so therefore, there is no force.

What about removing wax residues? Initially, I was not using much force but just wiping them away. But under the sun, I could see lots of scratch-like marks. Tried washing them off while washing my car the next time round but those marks do not come off (I guess since they are meant to be "waterproof"). I then had to use a quick detailer and quite a bit of force to rub them off after washing the car.

Thanks for the reply!

[Envious Eric]

scratches cant be washes away, and if a QD removed them, chances are the QD is filling them in a bit.

Check your towels. Waxing provides a solid buffer layer of protection so you are not toweling the paint, but rather the wax on top. use light pressure, right to left motions, and dont chase sweating or hazing from the wax. If that occurs, try letting it sit a bit longer, or go around the car once and remove most of the excess wax, and then go around again with some cold distilled water and a MF towel

[Wingman335]

Originally Posted by CCL

What about removing wax residues? Initially, I was not using much force but just wiping them away. But under the sun, I could see lots of scratch-like marks. Tried washing them off while washing my car the next time round but those marks do not come off (I guess since they are meant to be "waterproof"). I then had to use a quick detailer and quite a bit of force to rub them off after washing the car.

Thanks for the reply!

Originally Posted by Envious Eric

scratches cant be washes away, and if a QD removed them, chances are the QD is filling them in a bit.

Check your towels. Waxing provides a solid buffer layer of protection so you are not toweling the paint, but rather the wax on top. use light pressure, right to left motions, and dont chase sweating or hazing from the wax. If that occurs, try letting it sit a bit longer, or go around the car once and remove most of the excess wax, and then go around again with some cold distilled water and a MF towel

Eric, I think he was refering to the wax residues that look like scratches, which he removed by using a QD.

CCL, as Eric mentioned in his first post, lightly apply the wax on the vehicle, and then remove the wax after it has cured using a clean, soft MF towel. This way, the chances to marring the paint would be greatly reduced. You do not need to use force to apply the wax. You may need a little bit of effort to remove the wax, but it should not harm the paint if you are using clean products.

[UncleWede]

If I were using a true carnuba wax, I'd be applying with my bare finger tips (after removing watches/bracelets/rings, if applicable) Nothing like carressing your baby's smooooth . . . (excuse the FAP delay there)

For other synthetic sealants, I find regularly spritzing the applicator with a compatible QD helps keep the polished paint in its polished state.

In either case, as long as you have applied in the appropriate manner, and allowed to dry/cure per directions, you have put a layer between your MF and the paint.

[BMWWW]

Everything is EVENMORE applicable if you own a black car:

Apply your LSP more thinly + ensure you leave adequate time for your lsp to cure (makes it easier to wipe off)
- for example, Collinite 476 is a PITA if you don't let it cure it's necessary time, or if you apply way too thick (easy to do on a silver car)
- use the 'finger test' to determine if it has been given enough time to cure (swipe a non-wet finger across the newly 'cured' lsp--if it wipes clean, it's good to go. If not, give it a few more minutes/hours.

[CCL]

Originally Posted by Wingman335

Eric, I think he was refering to the wax residues that look like scratches, which he removed by using a QD.

Yup. That is indeed correct.

Originally Posted by Wingman335

CCL, as Eric mentioned in his first post, lightly apply the wax on the vehicle, and then remove the wax after it has cured using a clean, soft MF towel. This way, the chances to marring the paint would be greatly reduced. You do not need to use force to apply the wax. You may need a little bit of effort to remove the wax, but it should not harm the paint if you are using clean products.

Yup. I am actually having more troubles removing the wax. I do find that I need more effort/force in removing it. It doesn't wipe of easily.

I also forgot to mention that I am using Meguairs Ultimate Liquid Wax and I do have a BLACK car. http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...te-wax-liquid/

[Envious Eric]

get some nxt instead, its super easy on and off. or order up some blackfire wet diamond and get great looks and better protection.

I dont really know what scratch like scenario you are talking about with removing wax, so I cant comment. I thought you were trying to say your towel was scratching the paint while removing the wax.

also, try putting less on...thinner is better! if need be, apply the wax as normal, then take another applicator (without adding more wax) and go back over the wax you laid on to even it out and thin it out. softer MF towels are ideal for everything, especially wax removal

[RazRokz.!]

Try the turtle wax black box. Kansas gets really bad weather so I use it on my car on a monthly basis and it works wonders. Makes all the swirl marks go away too...

[CCL]

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I have read on the Meguairs forum that the Ultimate Liquid Wax should be applied and removed almost straight away.

"Ultimate Liquid Wax is a very unique product in our lineup, with very unique chemistry. Next time around you may want to try applying it to just a panel or two and then wiping it off right away to prevent that uneven appearance. This is the ONLY wax/sealant in our line up where we recommend this process. Even the paste version of UW should be allowed to dry fully before wipe off."

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...-diamond/page2

[TOGWT]

"Paint Surface Scratches (Cause & Effect)" - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...se-effect.html