[fdriller9]

Hey guys so I've been getting a consistent knocking sound coming from engine and I'm not sure what is causing it.

I always fill up with 93 from BP, Sunoco, Shell, or Exxon.

I know it's not the valve lifter issue. Had the lifters on the exhaust side replaced around 42k. Then the engine head with the updated check valve around 60k.

I use techron fuel injector cleaner every so often on a 1/3 tank.

Just hit 70k last week. Oil is due in a few thousand miles. Has been changed every 5-7k miles.

No issues with start up or driveabilty.

I'm still on my original plugs and coil packs so I'm thinking that I should change the plugs soon. I'll probably replace them with OEM plugs unless someone can suggest a better alternative.

Anything else that maybe of concern?

Thanks!

[LemonIce]

Damn... that shit is even worse than the stupid ass ticking on the N52s

[benzo23]

Maybe a slapping timing chain? I had the timing chain tensioner go bad in my old mercedes and it made an annoying knock. I really dont know...

[RupertPupkin]

Hey man this sounds too simple but check the length of your exhaust for loose mounts. I had a weird "knocking" sound and turned out to be one of my exhaust mounts near the tranny. I tightened it up. Think it was like a 19mm socket. The knock went away. I could have sworn it was from within the engine but metal transmits sounds very weird.

Let us know if you figure anything out.

[berserkerx]

Can I ask a noob question about the head with a new check valve? Also are our exhaust valves prone to having issues and thats why you have replaced them? Shit I have almost 90k and I don't have any weird issues but if there is something I should do to avoid a problem I will.

[fdriller9]

Thanks for the replies guys. I forgot to mention that it is consistent in that it comes after the engine has been running for awhile.

On a cold start, the knocking isn't really there but once I go for a 20min or so drive, the knocking can be heard when your standing outside the car.

I'll check the timing chain and exhaust mounts when I get a chance this weekend. Thanks!

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by berserkerx

Can I ask a noob question about the head with a new check valve? Also are our exhaust valves prone to having issues and thats why you have replaced them? Shit I have almost 90k and I don't have any weird issues but if there is something I should do to avoid a problem I will.

The ticking valve lifters are pretty common on the N52. There is a stickied thread in the NA Engine sub forum.

Basically, the lifters tick due to lack of oil. When the car sits for extended periods of time and the car is driven short distances, the oil seeps out of the lifter area. The ticking occurs when the engine is cold and the oil is too thick to re-circulate back up into the lifter area.

The new head design with the incorporated check valve maintains oil pressure after you shut the car off so the oil stays put.

After replacing the head, I haven't heard a tick.

There is a service bulletin out for this issue. First step is to replace the lifters on the exhaust side of the engine. Then if the issue persists (almost always does), the new head is installed.

If you drive long distances (ie enough to get your oil up to operating temps, usually around 15 minutes of driving depending on ambient temp and driving style), then you should be fine. The issue appears with driver's who drive short distances.

[bimmerque]

Originally Posted by *********

The ticking valve lifters are pretty common on the N52. There is a stickied thread in the NA Engine sub forum.

Basically, the lifters tick due to lack of oil. When the car sits for extended periods of time and the car is driven short distances, the oil seeps out of the lifter area. The ticking occurs when the engine is cold and the oil is too thick to re-circulate back up into the lifter area.

The new head design with the incorporated check valve maintains oil pressure after you shut the car off so the oil stays put.

After replacing the head, I haven't heard a tick.

There is a service bulletin out for this issue. First step is to replace the lifters on the exhaust side of the engine. Then if the issue persists (almost always does), the new head is installed.

If you drive long distances (ie enough to get your oil up to operating temps, usually around 15 minutes of driving depending on ambient temp and driving style), then you should be fine. The issue appears with driver's who drive short distances.

IMO, I would stick with one gas company preferred (shell) and change oil to a thicker more reliable brand like royal purple. It’s apparent that all these engines are great and tick. It seems that BMW is not going to do a damn thing about it (N52 best engine ever) IMO I think it has something to do with the weight and the design of the specific engine build itself, but I'm not the SME on engine builds. If push comes to throwing, you can use 25% - 50% of a bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer, just my 2 cent dude...

[berserkerx]

Where can I find one of these heads? I usually do drive longer distances so I guess thats why that I haven't had issues with it.

Also sorry to thread jack man but is it common that these motors usually have the low oil light come on just about in time for an oil change?

I think its weird that the noise starts once that your engine is warm. Its like something is warming up and once it gets warm it expands and starts to knock against something.

Does this knocking get faster as you rev the engine?

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by berserkerx

Where can I find one of these heads? I usually do drive longer distances so I guess thats why that I haven't had issues with it.

Also sorry to thread jack man but is it common that these motors usually have the low oil light come on just about in time for an oil change?

I think its weird that the noise starts once that your engine is warm. Its like something is warming up and once it gets warm it expands and starts to knock against something.

Does this knocking get faster as you rev the engine?

No worries.

I had my head replaced under CPO. I'm going to guess that you won't be able to find a used one. Not sure how many people have had the work done and also not many E90s are sitting in the junk year yet. In addition, I don't think many people know that there is an updated design (except on this forum).

So dealer would be your best bet.

If you don't hear the ticking and you drive long distances, you should be fine. There really isn't an issue except when they do tick, they may increase wear and heat due to lack of oil. Otherwise, a quiet engine is running fine.

Back to my problem, yea I think it's weird as well. I really can't see any as culprits without opening up the engine.

Btw, no codes except 2A16 which is a slow leak in my EVAP system. At first it was a damaged hose which has since been replaced. Now I think it is the orings on the carbon canister. Anyway I highly doubt that issue is related to the knocking I hear.

And I had both vanos solenoids replaced around 66k because the intake side was sticking but the issue was always there.

Also knocking cannot be heard when you rev the engine. So I'm not sure if it is dependent on RPMs. It's only audible at idle.

[fdriller9]

Originally Posted by applebimmer

IMO, I would stick with one gas company preferred (shell) and change oil to a thicker more reliable brand like royal purple. It’s apparent that all these engines are great and tick. It seems that BMW is not going to do a damn thing about it (N52 best engine ever) IMO I think it has something to do with the weight and the design of the specific engine build itself, but I'm not the SME on engine builds. If push comes to throwing, you can use 25% - 50% of a bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer, just my 2 cent dude...

Are you talking about the knocking in my engine or the issue with the ticking valve lifters?

I no longer have the lifter issue.

Normally, I do only use BP or Sunoco. I just named all the brands I have used on my car. I'll try to stick to just one and see if it helps.

[JamesM3M5]

Originally Posted by applebimmer

IMO, I would stick with one gas company preferred (shell) and change oil to a thicker more reliable brand like royal purple. It’s apparent that all these engines are great and tick. It seems that BMW is not going to do a damn thing about it (N52 best engine ever) IMO I think it has something to do with the weight and the design of the specific engine build itself, but I'm not the SME on engine builds. If push comes to throwing, you can use 25% - 50% of a bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer, just my 2 cent dude...

Thicker oil is the opposite of what you want. We use Motul, but any ACEA A3 approved oil is ok.