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2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 Clear coat scratch repair |
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09-23-2011, 07:27 AM | #1 |
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Clear coat scratch repair
I have a 550 F10 M Sport package and have some clear coat scratches.
Can anyone recommend a fix? I heard about the Quixx do-it-yourself kit. Does this work? Thanks! |
09-23-2011, 07:35 AM | #2 |
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Clear coat scratch repair
How can I fix some clear coat scratches on my 550 F10 M sport?
Imperial Blue color. Does Quixx work? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks! |
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09-23-2011, 08:53 AM | #3 |
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You have products like Fix It Pro. You can check out the reviews on YouTube or other places. Not very positive.
I talked to a professional about these wonder products. He was clear that here is no easy way to fix deep scratches! Light surface scratches however can normally be rubbed down, waxed and polished.
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09-23-2011, 09:08 AM | #4 |
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Pretty much anything McGuiar's or Griots has will do the trick. Just read the instructions and take your time.
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09-23-2011, 11:46 AM | #5 |
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It depends how deep your scratches are. If you can feel them with your fingernail, then they are pretty deep.
I have a few deep scratches and tried to polish them out with McGuiar Ultra Compound but no success. You really have to use 2,000 grit sand paper to wet sand these deep scratches, follow up with 2,500 and 3,000 grit. Then compound, polish and wax. However if your scratch is too deep, you may suffer from loosing the whole layer of clear coat by sanding. May apply a few coats of sealant to compensate.
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09-23-2011, 01:15 PM | #7 |
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I tried 3m rubbing compound + megs hand polish and it did not get the deepest line of a light/moderate clearcoat scratch out (did not catch nail, didn't seem that deep)
Next time i would go with 1200 grit lightly, then 3000, 5000 (or whatever you have), then the rubbing, then polish. Remember, once you get the theory, all sandpaper/rubbing/polish are abrasives, ordered in abrasiveness, its just a matter of application -how much of the clearcoat do you need to grind down to to smooth the surface, then followed in reverse order of lightening abrasiveness, to abraid the rough scratches/surface of the harshest abrasive you used, to restore the original (albeit 'lowered') shiny surface. Example: very light swirl: polish light swirl: rubbing, then polish light scratch: ~2000 grit, 3000, 5000, rubbing, polish moderate+deep scratch ~600-1000 whatever, then as above.. Note: target for minimal clearcoat removal/abrasive use level, as clearcoat is of limited thickness, if you rub it all out, you have to re-apply clearcoat(though not difficult) and re-level it the surrounding. PS: you can buy the kits to get an idea of the what is involved, but in the end its all the same, abrasives to level the clearcoat, then 'reversed'/polished to shine |
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09-23-2011, 01:47 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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10-22-2011, 12:01 PM | #11 |
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i wouldnt even use sand paper for this. Depending on how bad it is, a porter cable 7424xp, or a dual action polisher with a medium cutting pad and a medium abrasive compound will do the trick. Be sure to throw a polish or sealant over that.
Here's some links that may help you out. I use chemical guys stuff all the time: Cutting comound: http://www.chemicalguys.com/Paint_Co...gap_721_16.htm Cutting Pad: http://www.chemicalguys.com/POLISHIN...fx_104hex5.htm Be sure to watch some scratch removal vids on youtube before you try this. Hope this helps. |
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