[s2kman]

Hello e90post,

I'm planning to install STETT oil cooler and since I will have to almost remove the manifold to remove the housing (mine is without the cooler) I though it would be a good time to clean the valves. Car is 75K miles, always stock.

There are couple of threads about it, but I was actually thinking using the dremel extension shaft:


with some brush, either stainless steel or nylon brush:


If anybody had experience using dremel for such work, please let me know.
Or if any recommendation of what brakes cleaner to use when cleaning.

Is there any other alternatives to stainless steel brush? May be some softer metal?

I will try to report back with pics, but some guidance on what tools to use would be very helpful because I'm worried using the flat screwdriver on valves to scrape the dirt.


EDIT: Finally did some cleaning, here are the pics on completely stock car after 75K miles.









It took me about 4-5 hours to clean them all. I used gun cleaning kit from walmart, lots of shop cloth bought from Home Depot, 3 cans of B12 chemtool cleaner, 3 cans of compressed air. I tried to use dremel on low speed but it is almost useless because you can go with it too deep to the valve itself.
From my experience the best results when you use gun cleaning brush wrapped into some cloth the brash scrapes pretty good and cloth holds the dirt well on it.
When I first looked at the valves I thought that they are not that bad as I saw on a board, but when I cleaned them I realized how much sh*t I removed from there during last 4 hours.

I reassembled everything back, started the car, it was rough idle during first 2 minutes, even less; I gave it some revs and now it's so smooth. I know that partially it may placebo effect, but engine definitely runs smoother especially on cold starts.

[s2k_335i]

Why use brake cleaner when you can use carb cleaner?

[EastBayE90]

A copper brush is much softer than stainless steel that's what I used when doing head work on hondas.

[frozenfire]

I used copper brushes when I did mine. They are soft and you dont want to "over use" a brush. Take it from me, mine started comming apart and it was a PITA trying to get the brush hairs out, had to use a magnet and compressed air. After which I went out and bought a ton of brushes, used about 3 per cylinder because i was paranoid of it happening again...

[s2kman]

Originally Posted by s2k_335i

Why use brake cleaner when you can use carb cleaner?

Brake cleaner since Mr.5 mentioned it when cleaned his. Also driving S2k?


To All,
Can't find copper ones, may be brass will work as well since is ~95% of copper (and ~5% zinc I guess) ??

[s2kman]

Originally Posted by frozenfire

I used copper brushes when I did mine. They are soft and you dont want to "over use" a brush. Take it from me, mine started comming apart and it was a PITA trying to get the brush hairs out, had to use a magnet and compressed air. After which I went out and bought a ton of brushes, used about 3 per cylinder because i was paranoid of it happening again...

Good point, thanks! 3 per cylinder is a lot actually...

That's why I was thinking about nylon brushes, but not sure how they will work when cleaner is soaked through them; can start melting them.

[MDORPHN]

The most effective cleaners will have high concentrations of PEA (polyether amine), developed by Techron, but used in a number of high end intake valve cleaning products.

There is a lengthy thread on it somewhere, maybe on Bob it the Oil Guy forum.

Neil

[iflo]

Yes please take pics! Interested to see since you were always stock.

What kind of oil did you always use and at what intervals did you have your oil changed?

[frozenfire]

Originally Posted by s2kman

Good point, thanks! 3 per cylinder is a lot actually...

That's why I was thinking about nylon brushes, but not sure how they will work when cleaner is soaked through them; can start melting them.

Yes I realized I was over doing it too, but like i said i was paranoid after having one come apart. So then afterwards I would use a brush, then when I noticed any bend at all in the brush hairs I would toss it and grab another. Probably 1 per cylinder is all you need maybe 2 if you’re scrubbing real hard. Also note that I was just using cheap Wal-Mart gun cleaning brushes. Maybe higher quality ones hold up better, but that was all I could find on a short notice. My old boss gave me a catalog where he gets his from for his rifles, they have a huge selection of brushes but they are quite pricey and it takes a while to get stuff in as they have to ship it.

Also I think mine were also brass, not pure copper I just thought copper because it was copper like color (deff not stainless steel). They are just the gun cleaning brushes sold at walmart. bought like 20 of them for like 20 something dollars

[KyLu II]

You want brushes with "hairs" on the tip, and about 4-5 big cans of b12 chemtool

[M3 Eater]

I can vouch for the chem tool. I sprayed a bunch in there an let it sit, I used a shop vac with a narrow fitting to suck all the grime out. Chem tool will keep you from having to scrub hard.

[KyLu II]

[s2kman]

Originally Posted by iflo

Yes please take pics! Interested to see since you were always stock.

What kind of oil did you always use and at what intervals did you have your oil changed?

every 6K miles either OEM kit or Castrol LL01. I bought it with 40K, so not sure what previous owner used but I guess OEM by looking at the carfax data.

[Tzu]

I used a router with the extension and copper brushes. Still takes a while (~2-3 hrs of actual cleaning work), but not as much as other guys reported, almost 6 hours i think they said. Worked very well.

On a related note, I'm not sure how things work down there, but my tech said they have been recently instructed by BMW NA to clean valves when reported with associated symptoms. About 6 weeks after I cleaned my cleaned my valves, they cleaned them again under warranty when I took in my car in for the end of warranty demands. Funny thing is, I asked them to clean my valves as one of my end-of-warranty requests, and my SA said they wouldn't do it. I only found out they did when I took off my intake manifold when I got my car back to see what 6 weeks of buildup looks like, and it was confirmed by the tech that he did indeed do it. My SA was surprised.

Something to think about.

[s2kman]

Originally Posted by M3 Eater

I can vouch for the chem tool. I sprayed a bunch in there an let it sit, I used a shop vac with a narrow fitting to suck all the grime out. Chem tool will keep you from having to scrub hard.

How long do I need to let it sit on? Did you rotate the crank to close valves? or just chem tool, scrape and then shop vac?

[s2k_335i]

Check our my post. I had done this very recently. I used the copper brass gun cleaner tool and carb cleaner. Brake cleaner are to be use on brake,IMO. It's not too bad once you remove the intake, throttle body and the intake manifold. it took me a couple of hours cleaning the valves but it was worth it. I'll try to clean it every 20000 when I change my spark plug. Oh yeah, I sold my s2k, it was a fun car but not enough space for my interstate travel.

[s2kman]

Originally Posted by s2k_335i

Check our my post. I had done this very recently. I used the copper brass gun cleaner tool and carb cleaner. Brake cleaner are to be use on brake,IMO. It's not too bad once you remove the intake, throttle body and the intake manifold. it took me a couple of hours cleaning the valves but it was worth it. I'll try to clean it every 20000 when I change my spark plug. Oh yeah, I sold my s2k, it was a fun car but not enough space for my interstate travel.

Thanks, I'll look into brass gun brushes, looks like they work pretty well

[Rotorocious]

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=520922

Gun brush kit at walmart was $10 and had everything I needed.
B12 chem tool or seafoam will work. Only chose the chem tool since it was cheaper.

[Transport3r]

What's the best way to move the pistons to TDC?
I'm paranoid turning the crank bolt in case it's a reverse thread bolt and I loosen it :/

[Rotorocious]

Originally Posted by joshuo

What's the best way to move the pistons to TDC?
I'm paranoid turning the crank bolt in case it's a reverse thread bolt and I loosen it :/

If you are M/T, throw it in gear and roll/bump the car forward and backward.

[s2kman]

I have AT, so curious about TDC as well.

Going to pick up this kit for cleaning: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Winchester...g-Kit/14644730

[Transport3r]

Originally Posted by Rotorocious

If you are M/T, throw it in gear and roll/bump the car forward and backward.

yea MT here. which gear? I was thinking 5th since that's 1 to 1?