[babyMater]

Hey Everyone,

As you all know this forum has a HUGE amount of information, I've been reading post after post for a couple of months now. After HOURS of searching, comparing products and a little more searching I think I finally have the start of a plan. There are so many mods that I'd like to do, but since I'm not a bajillionaire my budget isn't unlimited. That combined with the warantee the CPO cars come with I am trying not to go completely overboard.

Currently my car is a 2008 335xi MT, it has the premium package, sport package, iDrive, 17" RFT, and 20% tint or in otherwords, STOCK. I am trying to get BMW to retrofit my car with an oil cooler, so I'll have to see how that goes. I am the 2nd owner, however the 1st owner was my father who had the car on lease, I subsequently bought the lease out and transported the car from NY to CO. With the climate in CO I have found the engine temps running a bit hotter than what my father expirienced in NY so I'm hoping I will have a case. Anyway, back to my mod list...

Here is where I am thinking of starting:
BMW DCI
(I was originally planning on the STETT CAI, but after reading alot of reviews and comparisons while the CAI does preform better i'm not sure that performance gain is with the significant additional cost)
COBB AP
P3 vent guage (already on order)
AE Exhaust
(from what I've read about this exhaust, you remove the stock exhaust and this one will bolt on starting at the stock DP's through the tips & there is no permanent modification to the car or the stock exhaust and it will fit on the XI without any problems, please correct me if i am wrong)

When I win the lottery or can save up some more $$ here are the other mods "i think" i'm interested in. I say "i think" only because I haven't had time to do enough research on each one to know for sure, but they are next on my list of "things to search for"

wideband O2 sensor (I have to get this with the exhaust, right? If so, anyone have any reccomendations?)
KW V3 Coilovers
18" wheels & tires for summer weather (keep the 17" for winter driving into the mountains during ski season)
FMIC (spearco or stett are the two that stand out so far)
BOV/DV
(can someone explain the difference? I've searched and searched on this but can't seem to get a clear idea of whether one is better than the other or if you use them together, I know its silly but i love the phshhh noise)
new pedals (better for heel toe shifting)
and of coarse... improving the driver

Am I missing anything?!?!?!

I am pretty much a N00B at this whole modification thing, so PLEASE HELP! Any input on the mods I've decided on for phase 1 or thinking about in the future would be GREATLY appreciated!!! I'm sorry if I'm asking dumb questions or re-posting information, but I really have tried to do my due diligence in searching for my own answers but at a certain point realized that I needed input and advise from the more experienced senior members on the forum.

Thanks in advance!!!

[Willizm]

BOV/DV do the same thing it's just that the BOV releases to atmosphere while the DV routes it back through the cold side. You won't see a performance difference except that they hold higher boost levels better than the stock DV's.

I don't think you "need" a wideband if you are doing exhaust.

You'll like your P3 boost gauge. One of my favorite mods for sure

[babyMater]

Originally Posted by Willizm

BOV/DV do the same thing it's just that the BOV releases to atmosphere while the DV routes it back through the cold side. You won't see a performance difference except that they hold higher boost levels better than the stock DV's.

I don't think you "need" a wideband if you are doing exhaust.

You'll like your P3 boost gauge. One of my favorite mods for sure

Thanks for the reply!!!

So, if I don't put the wideband O2 on with the exhaust would I be able to put one on at a later date? I was under the impression that these had to be put on the top of the exhaust (sandwiched between the pipe and the car). Which would be easier to do before the exhaust is attached, but if I wanted to do it afterwards how much extra work would it be?

I can't wait until the P3 gets here, I think they are saying it takes about 2 weeks to ship out and it is VERY hard to be that patient .

[Chefcg1]

it just needs to be angled down slightly. You can weld the bung in and plug it until a latter date. Personally with the tunes available COBB, JB, Procede a wideband is overkill unless you plan on race gas and N20

[Doyle]

xi performance on a budget:

-change all fluids to high performance fluids (I prefer Motul)
-245/45/17 tires (RE11's, Star Specs, etc)
-If you can't get the OC retrofitted, AR Design or Stett
-Performance friction or Carbotech pads
-AST 4100 w/ camber plates and 400/800 spring rates
-M3 rear subframe mounts
-M3 rear sway bar
-JB4/DCI
-Meth injection (if you are comfortable with it)
-Big Tom Intercooler
-Downpipes

It sounds like you want to adress the car's weaknesses, and maybe see a few HPDE's to tighten up your skills. In my opinion, the first three are crucial for that.

Fluids are the most important mod you can make. It is cheap insurance. Do it. Don't think about it.

17" tires are MUCH cheaper than 18". It is <$100 to swap back the the RFT's, and at the end of the summer you should need new tire anyways (if you're doing it right ).

Safety of the car is important. I started getting limp mode in subfreezing weather...just do it.

Safety of YOU is important. BMW calipers and rotors are fine. If you track the car, you'll need to upgrade pads. You drive a 4000+lb car (with driver & fuel). It takes alot to stop hard and repeatedly.

You WILL chew through the front outside of your tires if you do any spirited driving. A proper alignment (more negative camber) and less roll/plow (higher front spring rates) will address this issue. Additionally, AST's are a far superior choice to the KW's. However, there may be some more options in the near future...

The subframe bushings and rear sway will allow the car to feel more stable, neutral, and confidence inspiring as you gain skills through autocrosses or HPDE's. Also, BMW makes these, so you have a better chance at keeping the warranty.

Power is the last mod. These are listed in order of bang for the buck. Opinions on tunes are a dime-a-dozen. They are all different ways to skin the cat. The JB4 is probably just the least expensive (while still being as reliable as a tune can be). If you want reliability and track proven performance, go with the GIAC stage 2+. Both HPA and Berk have had great success with it. Additionally, it is the only flash that allows meth integration. Both can be removed easily for inspection/warranty.

Meth integration is incredible for this engine. Cools intake charge, ups octane, and helps stave off limp mode. I personally think the 70/30 mix with an underhood mount is the safest, most effective setup. Again, others will argue.

Big Tom intercooler (search) is about 1/3 of the price of the big names and works just as well. Don't pay the "BMW Tax" for a fancy intercooler. Intercooler will also drop IAT which this engine needs...double whammy for performance and reliability.

Downpipes are last because they are a PITA to install on the xi's. They make power, but if you are looking at easy in/easy out for warranty purposes, then this is NOT what you want. They are also, probably, the only part of the exhaust you want to change. Personally, I'd rather put $1000-1500 towards RB turbos than an exhaust.

After this, you can start on the appearance stuff (wheels, lips, bumpers, BOV's)

With all that, your car will probably one of the most epic DD's you've had. Sleeper status with M3 beating performance.

[335iPSI]

Originally Posted by babyMater

Hey Everyone,


Here is where I am thinking of starting:
BMW DCI
COBB AP
P3 vent guage (already on order)
AE Exhaust

wideband O2 sensor (I have to get this with the exhaust, right? If so, anyone have any reccomendations?)
KW V3 Coilovers
18" wheels & tires for summer weather (keep the 17" for winter driving into the mountains during ski season)
FMIC (spearco or stett are the two that stand out so far)
BOV/DV
new pedals (better for heel toe shifting)
and of coarse... improving the driver

Am I missing anything?!?!?!


Thanks in advance!!!

I have a 2008 335xi AT --- so I was once in your boat as well. I'm not trying to start a tuner-war, because everyone has reasons for getting different tunes and I think they're all great. I'll tell you the reasons I chose the path that I did, and hopefully that will help you.

Procede ---
This piggyback takes me literally 15 mins to install/unistall once you've done it once. You will see similar gains on a stock vehicle to that off the Cobb, but once you start modding, the Procede has way more functionality for you. This would also negate the vent gauge (for the most part) depending on what you're using it for. The Procede has the ability to display your boost, timing, AIT, Ignition Advance etc by using the fuel and/or oil temp gauge. I personally run the boost gauge rather than fuel gauge at all times. The Procede can also remove the need for your wideband sensors that you were thinking of getting, as it extrapolates the A/F ratio anyway.

AE Exhaust ---
I can't say anything bad about it, it sounds great if that's what you're going for. You wont gain a ton of HP with it, but it will sound good.

DCI ---
Get the BMS (cheapest) or Vishnu DCI (also cheap when paired with Procede)

KW V3's ---
I can't say anything bad about this setup, but if you're not a track junky and dont want to fiddle with height and stiffness settings, I recommend picking up a set of Bilsteins and either BMW Perf Springs or i-sport springs. This will be about a $800 package and give you a decent drop, and MUCH improved handling with a better ride than factory. I currently am running the i-sports and Bilsteins and it rides and handles fantastic PM me for pics if you're interested.

FMIC ---
This is a decent mod, and will give you repeatable performance. However, instead of a nice FMIC, I would go for the new PWM Vishnu Meth Kit (depending on FMIC brand, this could be identical in price). This will give you WAY more power than the FMIC (by lowering AIT PLUS adding octane) plus it is easier to remove for servicing the car than a FMIC. The Procede, DCI and Meth kit have shown 400+whp and 420+wtq.

BOV/DV ---
Nothing I can say about this one... when I had my old SRT4, I would "woosh" at every damn person trying to scare people walking on the side of the road --- have your fun.

Wheels/Tires ---
Sounds like you've got this one covered. If you want a hot performance tire check out some Nitto NT05's or Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Specs. I'm currently running 265/35/18 rear and 235/40/18 front. If you're looking for a great tire that will last a bit longer than those listed above check out the Hankook Ventus V12 Evo K110 (alphabet soup), Falken FK452's or Nitto 555's (triple-nickels for you southern folk).

So, my personal recommendation, drop $2k and get the Vishnu package of Procede, DCI and Meth kit... then do Exhaust and intercooler down the line. Dont forget some supporting items like a clutch and some new brake pads (cool carbons!). Suspension-wise, you can't go wrong with the Bilsteins --- but to each/own.

HTH

[babyMater]

Originally Posted by Doyle

Fluids are the most important mod you can make. It is cheap insurance. Do it. Don't think about it.

Which fluids would you change and is this something I can do myself or needs to be done by a mechanic? We don't have a lift, but we have a jack and most of the tools I would think.

Originally Posted by Doyle

You WILL chew through the front outside of your tires if you do any spirited driving. A proper alignment (more negative camber) and less roll/plow (higher front spring rates) will address this issue. Additionally, AST's are a far superior choice to the KW's. However, there may be some more options in the near future...

The subframe bushings and rear sway will allow the car to feel more stable, neutral, and confidence inspiring as you gain skills through autocrosses or HPDE's. Also, BMW makes these, so you have a better chance at keeping the warranty.

What is the difference between the springs and coilovers, functionality and driving expirience?

[babyMater]

335iPSI - I don't think I can use the PM yet as I just got to 5 posts, but pictures of the i-sport and bilsteins would be great! My email is babymater@gmail (until my PM starts to work).

thanks!

[Willizm]

Originally Posted by babyMater

Thanks for the reply!!!

So, if I don't put the wideband O2 on with the exhaust would I be able to put one on at a later date? I was under the impression that these had to be put on the top of the exhaust (sandwiched between the pipe and the car). Which would be easier to do before the exhaust is attached, but if I wanted to do it afterwards how much extra work would it be?

I can't wait until the P3 gets here, I think they are saying it takes about 2 weeks to ship out and it is VERY hard to be that patient .

I assumed you meant wideband as in a gauge. If the exhaust has the provisions for the rear o2 sensor then i'd go ahead and put it in. exhaust is one of the last things I'm going to do. Just isn't any gain there unless you want to be a little louder. I went chargepipe, dci, tial bov, fmic, downpipes and tune. couldnt be happier