[cleex024]

Hi guys. Ive been online trying to find out everything about bleeding the clutch but still nothing. I did the cdv removal on my e46 m3 and it was so easy...however on my 335i it is crazy trying to bleed my clutch. Me and my brother sat here pumping the clutch for a straight hour and still nothing and now the clutch is basically non existent. I did make a mistake though by pressing the clutch as hard as I could when I had the hose clamped down lol . The clutch pedal parts broke but I had to improvise and got the clutch pedal working again so I dont think this really did anything to the cylinders itself.

But please anyone with some knowledge share with me. I am getting worried that I will not be able to bleed my clutch. I used a self bleeder today but seems like its doing nothing because it is sucking air back into the system as it pushes out.

[cleex024]

PM would be the best way to contact me since then I would not have to get back onto this page. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[AlanAZ]

Only way to now fix is to inject brake fluid in from the clutch bleed point, and push the air up thru the brake res. There's videos on how to do that. Buy a new pump oil can and vinyl hose, dot 4 fluid and away you go.

[onebadmofo]

There's an inner container on the right if you look from the side of the car in the brake fluid container, make sure you're filling that up too. That's the container for clutch.

[cleex024]

thanks guys...i think i got it. however the clutch seems extremely light now and isnt comin up all the way as it did before. is this normal since there is no restrictions in the clutch line now?

[Kevin@AKMotorwerk]

Originally Posted by cleex024

thanks guys...i think i got it. however the clutch seems extremely light now and isnt comin up all the way as it did before. is this normal since there is no restrictions in the clutch line now?

probably still has some air in it, is it disengaging the clutch when you put the pedal down with the engine running?

[The HACK]

Stop. Take it (tow) to the nearest competent BMW independent mechanic.

[cleex024]

I refuse to not figure this out on my own...this is a very easy task which is why im going crazy here. I did this without any problems on the e46 m3 so I dont know why this car is giving me so many damn problems. Anyway I did drive it and it does disengage...it feels so good but only problem is that it feels way too light like a civic clutch...maybe not that light but close enough. And the clutch just doesnt come all the way back up like it used too.

[The HACK]

Originally Posted by cleex024

I refuse to not figure this out on my own...this is a very easy task which is why im going crazy here. I did this without any problems on the e46 m3 so I dont know why this car is giving me so many damn problems. Anyway I did drive it and it does disengage...it feels so good but only problem is that it feels way too light like a civic clutch...maybe not that light but close enough. And the clutch just doesnt come all the way back up like it used too.

Just because you're taking it to the nearest competent independent BMW mechanic doesn't mean you're not going to figure it out. Talk to the mechanic and find out what went wrong.

The fact that you BROKE a clutch pedal? There may be bigger issues involved here. The clutch slave cylinder sleeve/seal may be broken (it is not uncommon, especially if the pedal travels way past where it's intended range of travel is) or loose, allowing fluid to escape in the process. While this may still allow you to temporarily operate the vehicle, you NEVER KNOW when it's going to either blow out and cause a completely failure or if it'll hold indefinitely.

That's if the cylinder sleeve has indeed come loose.

Look, I'm all for trying to figure out stuff by ourselves. Heck I am the biggest advocate of trying to fix things on these cars without going to dealerships or mechanics. But even I have to admit sometimes that I am licked and sh*t happens and I've fubar'ed stuff enough to require EXPERT help.

Not questioning your mechanical skills. Just questioning the wisdom of trying to solve a problem that may have already gone beyond your ability to fix/control.

[cleex024]

Yeah thats true and you are definitely right. Anyhow I think the problem was that the parts that hold this thing all together from master cylinder or slave whichever one attaches to the pedal and the pedal itself is whats causing the looseness. I am holding those together right now with a socket wrench extension and its a little loose and when I put on the spring that pulls up on the pedal it pulls it all the way forward. So I will update when my part comes in today hopefully and install it. Then everything should work fine. The clutch pedal feels fine when everything was in place but just cant keep the spring up there right now because it pulls the pedal way too far forward.

[cleex024]

So the problem ended up being that the dot 4 brake fluid compartment was underfilled. The little area where the clutch line is divided was completely empty even though there was more 75% of the whole compartment was filled. Once I filled up the tank about 90% is when the brake fluid started to go in the corner area where the clutch line was. Everything was smooth sailin from there.

My part also came in today that connects the master cylinder with the clutch pedal and once I installed that with the springs everything works just like it did before.

And if anyone wants to know I completely removed the cdv and no leaks and everything worked perfectly. The removal is really simple I just didnt realize that I needed to add more fluid...in my e46 m3 I didnt need to add any so I figured I didnt need to in the 335i. Overall the whole deletion should take no more than probably 40 minutes.

Also to get to the bleeder valve I used a 10 mm? self ratcheting wrench...doesnt need much movement for the wrench to click so it worked great. And for bleeding seems the best way was:
1. open valve and have someone press the clutch all the way down and hold.
2. close the valve and have that person pull back the clutch all the way
3. repeat steps 1 and 2 about 4 times and all the bubbles should be out of the system.
4. DONT FORGET to add dot 4 brake fluid to the brake fluid compartment located under the hood in the very back right part. right in front of the windshield (its under a cover you have to remove to get to)

If you have any questions you can contact me to my email cleex024@gmail.com (it goes straight to my cell phone so I will be able to answer you immediately) and I would be more than happy to assist you since I am very familiar with the scenario since ive been working on it for like 4 hours LOL. I had lots of extremely helpful information from Kevin at AK Motorwerk. He really knows what hes talkin about.

[cleex024]

all I can say is wow...the improvement with cdv delete is crazy. disengagement and engagement of the gears are really quick...no more damn bobble from 1st to 2nd gear. and the shifts in the lower rpm range is greatly improved.