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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > M3 front wishbones/tension rods



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      01-28-2011, 03:53 PM   #1
ace008
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I am thinking of upgrading to the M3 front control arms/tension rods. For those of you that changed to the M3 front control arms/tension rods, what were your alignment specs after you changed them so I can tell the shop after they've installed them. This is daily driver and I don't really track the car. I may go to an auto x every now and then. What settings would be best? I currently have Koni FSD shocks on stock sport springs and H&R front and rear sway bars on my car. Will I notice the difference with just changing the front to M3 components? Will the car be off balance since I'm not doing the rears yet? How much am I looking to spend on parts and labor to do this? Thanks.
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      01-29-2011, 03:52 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ace008 View Post
I am thinking of upgrading to the M3 front control arms/tension rods. For those of you that changed to the M3 front control arms/tension rods, what were your alignment specs after you changed them so I can tell the shop after they've installed them. This is daily driver and I don't really track the car. I may go to an auto x every now and then. What settings would be best? I currently have Koni FSD shocks on stock sport springs and H&R front and rear sway bars on my car. Will I notice the difference with just changing the front to M3 components? Will the car be off balance since I'm not doing the rears yet? How much am I looking to spend on parts and labor to do this? Thanks.
For a daily driver, 1/16" to 1/8" toe in should work great. It is a very noticeable upgrade, and well worth it. You will need to get the alignment right after the upgrade, since it will have massive toe change from the upgrade. No problem doing the front end first. I think it took me less than 2 hours to swap the parts, and a little more to do the alignment, but not sure what a shop would charge.
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      02-01-2011, 11:31 PM   #3
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Stick with a street set up for the toe. You can easily adjust the toe at the track and then change it back before you go home. Just ask some of the guys at the track for some help on how to do this.
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      02-02-2011, 09:12 AM   #4
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I am very pleased with the swap, and have only been on the street with it.


The steering feel and turn in is awesome.
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      02-02-2011, 05:55 PM   #5
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I have done the front only (not the rear). It's a very noticeable difference.

You'll read that swapping out for the M3 bits significantly reduces understeer. But I don't think people describe this enough, and after I installed it, I was actually slightly unsettled for the first few months until I got used to it.

For me, understeer actually makes the car feel more planted, because it's less responsive. Prior to swapping out the M3 bits, I loved how my car felt. I did NOT understand how much understeer the car had, because I was doing well at the track against M3s, etc driven by people around the same intermediate skill level. I had also driven M3s often (from my friends), including attending the 1-day M-School with my buddy. At that time, I would say I liked how my pre-M3 bits swap car felt, more than the M3. In fact, my M3 buddy said the same cuz he likes cars that 'feel planted' as well. Keep in mind I was also not advanced enough at the time to really make full use of the car, and I believe this applies to 95% of the modded cars and users on this forum (just look at how empty our track sub-forum is).

So when people say the M3 bits 'reduced understeer significantly', I didn't quite make the connection to the fact that the car now felt 'floatier'. Be sure to get your suspension readjusted. I had to tighten things up quite a bit, and keep in mind the car's 'character' will feel greatly different afterwards. So for me, the first few months I kinda questioned the mod, cuz really, street driving doesn't require that much unless you're....being reckless. The pre-mod understeer felt great for daily driving (especially and only if you have LSD!). My whole outlook changed the first time I tracked my car w/ the M3 bits. Omg, what a HUGE difference. Needless to say, I love it.

I wish I read something like this before I got my mod, to mentally prepare me for the change...it's that significant Hope my impressions / feedback helps you.

So this is not a negative review. Just trying to share my initial feeling after the mod so others won't be caught offguard if they don't understand what 'significantly reduces understeer' really means, and how it changes the driving characteristics and driving 'feel' of the car.

EDIT: Oops, one last note, the M3 bits was my latest mod after everything else in my signature. So other people may feel differently depending on the order of their mods.
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Last edited by orionredwing; 02-02-2011 at 06:12 PM..
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      02-03-2011, 01:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ace008 View Post
I am thinking of upgrading to the M3 front control arms/tension rods. For those of you that changed to the M3 front control arms/tension rods, what were your alignment specs after you changed them so I can tell the shop after they've installed them. This is daily driver and I don't really track the car. I may go to an auto x every now and then. What settings would be best? I currently have Koni FSD shocks on stock sport springs and H&R front and rear sway bars on my car. Will I notice the difference with just changing the front to M3 components? Will the car be off balance since I'm not doing the rears yet? How much am I looking to spend on parts and labor to do this? Thanks.
Shoot for 1/16" to 1/8" of total toe-in. 1/16" if you see track days and autocross. Get as much camber as you can with the strut mount pin removed. Caster is not adjustable.

As for labor, expect 1.5 to 2 hours on the install, plus alignment.
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      03-14-2011, 11:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HP Autowerks View Post
Shoot for 1/16" to 1/8" of total toe-in. 1/16" if you see track days and autocross. Get as much camber as you can with the strut mount pin removed. Caster is not adjustable.

As for labor, expect 1.5 to 2 hours on the install, plus alignment.
What's this strut mount pin? EDIT: Never mind, found what you guys are talking about.

So if we toss on these M3 bits and lower the car at the same time, the factory alignment specs are still sufficient?

Last edited by acdHQK713K; 03-15-2011 at 10:51 AM..
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      03-15-2011, 10:49 AM   #8
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Also does the car need to have ballast in it when doing an alignment?
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