[BrianMN]

well, kinda not really. While doing some 3rd and 4th gear pulls today, I began experiencing MAJOR clutch slippage. One must think the added torque of the new beta maps added to the stress, and blaming the someone else is always the best scapegoat

I can still take off from a stop and get up to 70mph just fine, but Every time I go more than 50% throttle it lets go and doesn't grab again until I let off.

SO, a new clutch is in my immediate future. Here is what I've learned after spending a few minutes:

Alpina B3 Lux- FX 300 with OEM Flywheel
Dzenno-
-Clutchmaster Ceramic 6puck + LW Aluminum flywheel, went out after 4500km
-ACT Street/Organic Full face + OEM Flywheel
Palisades – ACT
E93whiteonred- ACT Street
gian p.r. –ACT went out after 9000 miles.
FBIS- Clutchmasters FX850 + LW flywheel
Nlakind – ACT
Shiv- Spec Stg. 2 + LW flywheel
Mr. 5- ACT Street

•ClutchMasters FX100 - Performance Organic - Perfect replacement for stock & and mild bolt on's: Piggy-back, tune, exhaust etc. (excellent for: street use)
•ClutchMasters FX300 - Segmented Kevlar - A favorite for customers that see hard street use and track day. Kevlar surface has more bite, impressively smooth with an average 110% higher capacity.
•ClutchMasters FX400 - Ceramic - Aggressively built for hard street or track usel; gives up a good portion of its smoothness for lots of power handling capability. Has very positive engagement and maximum holding for a single discI think its safe to say that the clutches that prematurely went out (dzenno and gian p.r.) are flukes or defective units.

So, basically I've decided on an organic disc is best for my setup, so that narrows it down to ACT Street or Clutchmasters' FX100.

So here's my question: What is more preffered: the Sprung Disc or Rigid Disc?

Also, it doesn't seem like any vendors on here sell clutches? Stett and **********s.com are the only ones I found...where are you guys getting them from?

[Mikey_Bo0sts]

Damn it that sucks, I really wanted to get manual when I got the 335i but when I thought of the clutches I went through with my previous cars and how much pain in the ass it was I didn't and I'm so glad lol Best of luck man ;]

[themyst]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

well, kinda not really. While doing some 3rd and 4th gear pulls today, I began experiencing MAJOR clutch slippage. One must think the added torque of the new beta maps added to the stress, and blaming the someone else is always the best scapegoat

I can still take off from a stop and get up to 70mph just fine, but Every time I go more than 50% throttle it lets go and doesn't grab again until I let off.

SO, a new clutch is in my immediate future. Here is what I've learned after spending a few minutes:

Alpina B3 Lux- FX 300 with OEM Flywheel
Dzenno-
-Clutchmaster Ceramic 6puck + LW Aluminum flywheel, went out after 4500km
-ACT Street/Organic Full face + OEM Flywheel
Palisades – ACT
E93whiteonred- ACT Street
gian p.r. –ACT went out after 9000 miles.
FBIS- Clutchmasters FX850 + LW flywheel
Nlakind – ACT
Shiv- Spec Stg. 2 + LW flywheel
Mr. 5- ACT Street

•ClutchMasters FX100 - Performance Organic - Perfect replacement for stock & and mild bolt on's: Piggy-back, tune, exhaust etc. (excellent for: street use)
•ClutchMasters FX300 - Segmented Kevlar - A favorite for customers that see hard street use and track day. Kevlar surface has more bite, impressively smooth with an average 110% higher capacity.
•ClutchMasters FX400 - Ceramic - Aggressively built for hard street or track usel; gives up a good portion of its smoothness for lots of power handling capability. Has very positive engagement and maximum holding for a single discI think its safe to say that the clutches that prematurely went out (dzenno and gian p.r.) are flukes or defective units.

So, basically I've decided on an organic disc is best for my setup, so that narrows it down to ACT Street or Clutchmasters' FX100.

So here's my question: What is more preffered: the Sprung Disc or Rigid Disc?

Also, it doesn't seem like any vendors on here sell clutches? Stett and **********s.com are the only ones I found...where are you guys getting them from?

Bite the bullet and go with an OEM clutch. From experience testing other N54s with these aftermarket clutches (both had FX400s), they are absolute nightmares for daily operation. Mine was solid for 28k miles before I got rid of the car.

[MyE92]

the clutch isn't covered under warranty, right?

[themyst]

Originally Posted by MyE92

the clutch isn't covered under warranty, right?

its subjective, some may cut you a sweetheart deal, some may cover under warranty, some may do nothing.

[Mikey_Bo0sts]

Brain just hit off the SA with $50 get cool with him and ask him nicely to take care of you

[BrianMN]

It should be under warranty, but I pretty much have every engine, suspension and cosmetic performance mod, and I don't want to spend two days (or more) returning it back to stock. It would take a pretty incompetent dealer/tech to not know somethings' up.

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by themyst

Bite the bullet and go with an OEM clutch. From experience testing other N54s with these aftermarket clutches (both had FX400s), they are absolute nightmares for daily operation. Mine was solid for 28k miles before I got rid of the car.

I wouldn't be completely opposed to going OEM again..but this one is simply letting go due to not enough clamping force for everyday 420tq. When you say 'bite the bullet" i'd assume you mean because it's more expensive? On ECS it's only $360?

This is the "LUK" OEM clutch from ECSTuning....what does the "LUK" mean? http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335i-N54_3.0L/ES2357/

[themyst]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

I wouldn't be completely opposed to going OEM again..but this one is simply letting go due to not enough clamping force for everyday 420tq. When you say 'bite the bullet" i'd assume you mean because it's more expensive? On ECS it's only $360?

This is the "LUK" OEM clutch from ECSTuning....what does the "LUK" mean? http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335i-N54_3.0L/ES2357/

not because it's more expensive, more along the lines of more frequent replacement, especially if you're hard on your clutch. You can ask Clap or boostecosta, I went hard on my 135i and the clutch NEVER slipped in 28k miles of up to 19psi.

My non-expert opinion is, you'll sacrifice clutch life for sanity while daily driving. The aftermarket clutches are an exercise in frustration in non-racing situations.

It's your car, but if I still had my car, that's what I would do. I occasionally see new OEM clutches for sale here too... might save you a few bucks that way.

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by themyst

not because it's more expensive, more along the lines of more frequent replacement, especially if you're hard on your clutch. You can ask Clap or boostecosta, I went hard on my 135i and the clutch NEVER slipped in 28k miles of up to 19psi.

My non-expert opinion is, you'll sacrifice clutch life for sanity while daily driving. The aftermarket clutches are an exercise in frustration in non-racing situations.

It's your car, but if I still had my car, that's what I would do. I occasionally see new OEM clutches for sale here too... might save you a few bucks that way.

Yeah that doesn't sound half bad. I'll be doing it myself so it's not a huge hit to the wallet to replace it every 30k miles. It would be nice to retain the stock driveability too. Does that OEM "LUK" clutch from ECS look right?

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E92-335i-N54_3.0L/ES2357/

[Alan l.]

That sucks. Plus 1 for going oem clutch.

Seems like i read more horror stories about them more than anything.

How many miles did you have on the original clutch? Full bolt on and meth power levels?

Alan

[dzenno]

DO NOT get the OEM again..at least get the ACT street/organic or possibly fx300 Kevlar for a daily driver..

My fx400 was defective due to a bad pilot bearing so make sure you replace it..

[335xiRT1]

with these new beta maps my clutch is deff gonna go as well

[runthis]

I started feelings slippage from my clutch and went ACT. I bought mine directly from ACT, I also mated it with a new fly wheel...

After going round and round regard lightweight flywheels and hearing about chatter. I decided to purchase a new flywheel, because I was told that its very difficult to resurface a Dual Mass flywheel.

BMW installed my new OEM flywheel, and ACT clutch. I absolutely love it. The first day or so, I'd say I noticed a difference but nothing painful. Definitely an improvement over stock and grips like crazy!

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by Alan l.

That sucks. Plus 1 for going oem clutch.

Seems like i read more horror stories about them more than anything.

How many miles did you have on the original clutch? Full bolt on and meth power levels?

Alan

I've got ~37000 miles on the car right now...tuned since 14000 and began adding parts then too. I don't think it's 'fried' meaning material is all chewed off, rather it's just lacking the clamping power to hold it tight.

Originally Posted by dzenno

DO NOT get the OEM again..at least get the ACT street/organic or possibly fx300 Kevlar for a daily driver..

My fx400 was defective due to a bad pilot bearing so make sure you replace it..

I'm looking into the FX100 or ACT street, just cause I'm wanting to stay with organic. I commonly take out bosses/partners/clients to lunch, so it can't feel like a POS to someone who doesn't know better. The OEM just seems like it would do the job OK for another ~30000 miles, which then I'd just replace it again.

Originally Posted by runthis

I started feelings slippage from my clutch and went ACT. I bought mine directly from ACT, I also mated it with a new fly wheel...

After going round and round regard lightweight flywheels and hearing about chatter. I decided to purchase a new flywheel, because I was told that its very difficult to resurface a Dual Mass flywheel.

BMW installed my new OEM flywheel, and ACT clutch. I absolutely love it. The first day or so, I'd say I noticed a difference but nothing painful. Definitely an improvement over stock and grips like crazy!

Wow you got an entirely new dual mass flywheel? Was it in the $800-900 range? I haven't been slipping this like crazy, so I'm thinking that taking a few thou off of it with 220g sand bar should suffice, no?

If not, has anyone mated an organic clutch with a lightweight flywheel? It seems the people who go with the lightweight flywheel are always getting a ceramic clutch.?

Thanks for the feedback and help guys

[OpenFlash]

Definitely don't go with a metallic clutch. You will hate life.

[itsbrokeagain]

ACT street. I have sold several of these and the pedal pressure is hardly more than stock. The disc is solid, no springs in it as BMWs sprung center is in the dual mass flywheel. This is your chance to get a solid lightweight flywheel, or do another new dual mass, if you burned up the old flywheel good.

A lightweight flywheel will make the drivetrain noise a little louder and more chattery while in neutral, but I like the sound of it and feels racey

It will engage low for the first few days til it breaks in, then it will return to normal.

I always make it a point to change the throwout bearing, the throwout lever pin and the 4 big bolts (size E14) have to be replaced as they are torque to yield (stretch bolts) when bolting the transmission back together.

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by shiv@vishnu

Definitely don't go with a metallic clutch. You will hate life.

You have the Spec clutch and flywheel right?

Why are people saying to stay away from Spec? Their flywheel is pretty cheap, but their only organic disc is rated to 350tq.

What the hell is this: ???

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335i-N54_3.0L/ES3357/

[**335i**]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

well, kinda not really.

well its actually leading people to misunderstanding now, you could create topic " i broke my clutch" why mention procede in here its nonsense that you can broke your clutch with procede new maps so quickly peace and

[Sniz]

CONTACT SOUTHBEND, they have n54 clutches in testing right now. HPF uses them on their s54 kits and everyone loves them. They are the best street clutches out for the e36 turbo crowd as well.

Just installed one on a s/c e39 M5 (full feramic) and it feels BUTTER smooth, slightly more pedal pressure than stock and will grab like an animal. That was a stage IV for hte M5. thats a 480whp 4,000lb 120mph trapping car.

Do It! You wont be disappointed.

[Clap135]

Originally Posted by Matt@Camber-Toe

ACT street. I have sold several of these and the pedal pressure is hardly more than stock. The disc is solid, no springs in it as BMWs sprung center is in the dual mass flywheel. This is your chance to get a solid lightweight flywheel, or do another new dual mass, if you burned up the old flywheel good.

A lightweight flywheel will make the drivetrain noise a little louder and more chattery while in neutral, but I like the sound of it and feels racey

It will engage low for the first few days til it breaks in, then it will return to normal.

I always make it a point to change the throwout bearing, the throwout lever pin and the 4 big bolts (size E14) have to be replaced as they are torque to yield (stretch bolts) when bolting the transmission back together.

Shoot me a pm wiht a price installed for the ACT street/resurfaced stock fly and all the bolts/ect. I have 44k tuned miles on mine, and doesnt slip yet, but I am on limited time I feel.

[dzenno]

Don't forget the pilot bearing...caused my last clutchmasters fx400 to go bad after 2000 miles..just for the piece of mind...