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Going to do a 50,000 mile tune-up
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12-31-2010, 01:17 AM | #1 |
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Going to do a 50,000 mile tune-up
I'm going to take my car into the indy to get a full tune-up soon. I want to change out all the oils and replace the spark plugs. Is there anything else I should do? I plan on keeping the car for along time, so I want to make sure it last. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
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12-31-2010, 09:19 AM | #2 |
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Spark plugs are not needed for another 50,000 miles. I plan on changing mine at around 70,000 miles. As for the fluid changes (brake, transmission, power steering, coolant etc.) I agree with you. You can't go wrong replacing old/dirty fluid. Cars in general run better with clean fluid.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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12-31-2010, 10:39 AM | #3 |
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I agree with Chriztofor. Your plugs are only halfway spent. Replacing the plugs is a lengthy process because of all the parts you have to remove to get to them (cabin air filter box, cowling, engine cover), which is extra labor that you are paying for with no real benefit to you. The plugs will easily last 100,000 miles with no problems. I replaced mine at 98,000 (because it was a weekend that came up fee to do so) and they had plenty of life left in them. Modern ignition systems are easy on plugs these days, which is why all manufacturers have basically gone to 100,000 service intervals. Replacing them early will not benefit you at all, no gain in reliability, and no improvement in gas mileage. It's not worth the extra cost.
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12-31-2010, 10:51 AM | #4 |
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Drives: 06 330i
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when my car hit 50k, i waved, and kept driving. no additional services here. i had a brake fluid and ps flush a while back, and the only fluid ive been changing regularly is motor oil.
just hit 65,000 today actually edit- an upside down 65k |
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12-31-2010, 10:53 AM | #5 | |
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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12-31-2010, 10:55 AM | #6 |
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I disagree with the others regarding the plugs, especially if you have a tune. It's not at all that hard to do nor is it time consuming - takes maybe an hour if you take your time. I replaced mine at about 28K and noticed an improvement right away. I plan on replacing them every 25K or maybe even sooner from this point forward.
OP - in addition to what you have listed which is great, I'm assuming you're also planning to change all your filters as well - air, fuel, cabin, etc. You also might want to inspect your belts - recently saw a post where someone shredded a belt and I've heard this happening to others as well. |
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12-31-2010, 11:16 AM | #7 | |
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I agree with you about the air, micro filter, and the belt; my 2006 e90 had the original air filter! Fuel filter is located in the gas tank under the seat and I believe it is integrated with the sending unit; the part alone is over $250. Instead of replacing it I use chevron techron fuel injector cleaner and works like a charm. Too bad the fuel filter is not like the e46 which was located under the car and cost about $50 for the part (and it was HUGE).
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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12-31-2010, 11:39 AM | #8 | |
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12-31-2010, 11:50 AM | #9 |
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^ Good point.
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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12-31-2010, 03:56 PM | #10 |
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I'm about to approach 50k miles in the next couple months. I bought the extended maintenance plan with my CPO. Are these "so-many-miles" fluid changes included? My sales person only mentioned oil changes (DIC says when), brake pads (thickness says when), and he mentioned "fluid" changes. What are some common mileage milestones to have fluids changed?
I can probably do the spark plugs myself. Since technology and design for spark plugs are changing, any recommendations on a certain brand or type?
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12-31-2010, 04:27 PM | #11 |
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^^^BMW states to change N54 spark plugs every 45K miles. You should be getting that for free under your maintenance plan. The only other fluid change - outside of engine oil- is the two year replenishment of brake fluid. All other fluids are designated lifetime or are to be change at 100K miles.
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~199K miles. I -still- don't fear my 335i. Last edited by Bcube; 12-31-2010 at 04:48 PM.. |
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12-31-2010, 04:31 PM | #12 |
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Sorry guys - I didn't realize we were talking about a 330 here. In that case, I agree, you don't need to change your plugs as often but if it were me I would still 1/2 the BMW schedule. I just don't get the warm & fuzzies leaving plugs in for 100,000 miles and 10 years - I feel like they'd never come out if I did that...
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12-31-2010, 09:33 PM | #13 |
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Thanks for all the input guys, I got the price for all the fluids and sparks today and it was very reasonable so I will probably get the plugs done anyways.. it will make me feel a little better even if I don't need to do it right now. I forgot to mention that my car was a manual and ill be getting the manual tran fluid changed out to redline as well.
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01-01-2011, 04:24 PM | #14 | |
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Turbo and DI is a different story.
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01-01-2011, 05:51 PM | #15 | |
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01-02-2011, 12:30 AM | #17 |
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differential fluid?
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01-02-2011, 07:37 AM | #18 | |
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I've been working on BMWs for 20 years, and I'm well aware of how fragile some of the plastic parts can be (the E90 has the best BMW plastic I've seen so far) so I take a lot of care when removing all the parts of the E90 to get to the plugs. I've removed the cowling and engine cover twice now (plugs at 98K and an O2 sensor about a month ago) and I broke one of the plastic clips on the cowling (it just happens sometimes). Removing the plastic cable retainers that run across the front of the cowling is just a pain in the ass. You're talking about stiff, heavy gauge cables, sitting in light-weight plastic trays; it's just set up for broken parts during disassembly/reassembly. It's not worth the time, in the case of the OP who is paying someone near $75 an hour, to put in plugs early for no gain in reliability or performance. |
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01-02-2011, 07:58 AM | #19 |
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If you are going in to indy place for a full maintenance on the car at 50k-75k what are some of the things you guys ask for to be changed or checked at this point?
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01-02-2011, 08:05 AM | #20 |
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Drives: 06 330i
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to me, there is no extra maintenance that should be done. im at 65, and the only fluid im changing in my car is oil, until i hit 100k (if i even have this car that long)
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01-02-2011, 09:57 AM | #21 |
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NGK updated their spark plug for NA engines in '07, after 330 production ended. 328s built after 3/2007 should have the updated plugs.
Improved spark and mid-range power. Be sure to get that plug, if you decide to do it. New NGK plug part number is: PLZFR6A11S Last edited by AlanAZ; 01-02-2011 at 10:19 AM.. |
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01-02-2011, 01:20 PM | #22 | |
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You make getting to them sound harder then it is. Twist off the air quality sensor and unclip two hold downs for its wiring. Two weather covers for the electronics box on one side and the brake res on the other that just pop off...and a pull tab. Pull out the fuel line holder(I think it was a fuel line) and unclip the three clips holding the wiring conduit. Remove two bolts that holds down the base that supports the microfilter housing (going back on I always had to also remove the 6? bolts holding down the cover for the microfilter....you can do that now too if you wanted). Remove the base and you have access to the engine cover, which is just 6 camloc like bolts in order to remove. I think you can remove all plugs without doing this, but I always also remove the passenger side strut tower bar. This is extremely easy stuff and I think takes maybe 10 to 15 minutes tops to do. I had an engine problem recently and have done this over 10 different times in the span of 1 week trying to figure out the problem, test driving and redoing it. I have broken nothing. You'd have to really be trying to break anything here. Yes, plastic upholstery hold downs break when removing many times if you are the sort that uses the wrong tool instead of getting tools made for doing such things, but none of these parts to get to the spark plugs are like that at all. I removed my plugs at 85k miles. They were fine and no indications of any problems. Wether these plugs last 100k miles or not, 50k miles is alot of milage and you should do a visual check to make sure things are working as advertised. Last edited by Casca; 01-02-2011 at 01:27 PM.. |
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