[King335i]

I just finally installed the RR catted DP's yesterday and I have to say that the car feels very different. It seems like more torque is available on demand, and the exhaust note is that much sweeter.

My question, though, relates to something that happened today. I was driving the car around town and all of a sudden the Service Engine Soon light came on, and it showed me a diagram of what appeared to be an engine with a line running diagonally through it.

Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggested fixes?

[bulldog_yyc]

o2 sensor probably - was it installed correctly? some catted downpipes still trigger a CEL from what I hear, so you may have to get an o2 simulator

[King335i]

hmm, I thought that may be the case..

Would it be normal that it took it a while for the Service Engine Soon light to come on?

[bulldog_yyc]

Originally Posted by King335i

hmm, I thought that may be the case..

Would it be normal that it took it a while for the Service Engine Soon light to come on?

sometimes it takes a while for the sensors to trigger a fault, and other times its instant from what I hear. Thats too bad that the catted downpipes trigger a CEL though, perhaps you can get in touch with someone at RR?

[King335i]

The only number they list on their website is for sales, and it is also the same number as their fax line so when I called I eventually got that annoying, screeching fax tone.

I'm going to email them tomorrow, but I'm also headed out of town so I guess I'll just have to wait until I get back to resolve the issue. But, like you said, its too bad that the catted downpipes still throw codes. I was assured they wouldn't.

[King335i]

As well, when I start the car, out from the exhaust comes this horrible noise which I can only describe as a mix between "burbling", "gasping", and "choking".

Don't know if that helps at all to diagnose the problem, but I thought I'd pass it along anyway.

[SV Concepts III]

Borrow a code reader and figure out what code is being pulled. Most likely an O2 sensor issue.

[ThorsHammer]

Dude, it's well known that most aftermarket DP's, be that catted or catless, will trigger an O2 code.

The only solution is to get an O2 Simulator and install it into your ECU. I have the BMS one here: http://www.burgertuning.com/dpfix.html

It works fine. I have the same downpipes and the CEL is normal. Your biggest challenge now is getting the actual code cleared. If you don't have a Bavarian Technik Scanner, you are SOL. If you have to take your car in for service...even just an oil change, they're gonna know that you've modded the car.

[King335i]

I'm not too sure about the commonality of these Bavarian Technik Scanners, but my mechanic works exclusively with BMWs and Benzs. Would it be safe to assume that he probably has one, or not?

Before people get needlessly defensive, I just want to state that the following question is being asked with all sincerity: What is the point of making a catted downpipe if it throws codes just the same as the catless version?

[cstmx_ryder]

Where in Oregon are you? Portland?

[King335i]

I live in Eugene, but I head up to Portland very often because my brother is attending the art institute.

[ThorsHammer]

Originally Posted by King335i

I'm not too sure about the commonality of these Bavarian Technik Scanners, but my mechanic works exclusively with BMWs and Benzs. Would it be safe to assume that he probably has one, or not?

Before people get needlessly defensive, I just want to state that the following question is being asked with all sincerity: What is the point of making a catted downpipe if it throws codes just the same as the catless version?

They are wider in diameter and have less catalytic material, therefore less restriction.

Your independent mechanic should be able to clear the regular codes, but I can't say for sure about the shadow codes, which are the hidden codes that a Bav Tech tool will catch and erase.

[King335i]

Originally Posted by ThorsHammer

They are wider in diameter and have less catalytic material, therefore less restriction.

I'm not sure you understood the question. Both the catted and catless downpipes are the same diameter (3"), and the catless has no catalytic material, because it is catless. It appears that you thought I was inquiring as what the difference is between the stock downpipes and the Riss Racing downpipes.

What I was asking is, if the Riss Racing downpipes which have cats cause error codes, and the Riss Racing downpipes which don't have cats cause error codes, what is the point and/or advantage of producing downpipes with cats if, in the end, both are going to cause error codes?

[ThorsHammer]

Originally Posted by King335i

I'm not sure you understood the question. Both the catted and catless downpipes are the same diameter (3"), and the catless has no catalytic material, because it is catless. It appears that you thought I was inquiring as what the difference is between the stock downpipes and the Riss Racing downpipes.

What I was asking is, if the Riss Racing downpipes which have cats cause error codes, and the Riss Racing downpipes which don't have cats cause error codes, what is the point and/or advantage of producing downpipes with cats if, in the end, both are going to cause error codes?

No I understand. In the aftermarket catted pipes, there is not as much material/catalyst, thereby reducing restriction. Also, some aftermarket have a thinner tubing and/or a flared/tapered design, creating more inner volume. Even though the connections are still 3", it doesn't mean the entire pipe, especially the inside, is 3" from tip to tip.

Bottom line, the point in buying aftermarket catted pipes is you get more exhaust flow over stock...at the expense of potentially throwing O2 codes...as you have discovered.

[SV Concepts III]

You can just pick up an O2 sim to get rid of the codes but your indy mechanic should be able to clear them. If not, you can head to AutoZone or Pep Boys and borrow their code reader to clear them.

[ragingclue]

Originally Posted by King335i

I'm not sure you understood the question. Both the catted and catless downpipes are the same diameter (3"), and the catless has no catalytic material, because it is catless. It appears that you thought I was inquiring as what the difference is between the stock downpipes and the Riss Racing downpipes.

What I was asking is, if the Riss Racing downpipes which have cats cause error codes, and the Riss Racing downpipes which don't have cats cause error codes, what is the point and/or advantage of producing downpipes with cats if, in the end, both are going to cause error codes?

I understand the question.

Why get catted when they throw codes anyway? The answer is: I dunno.

I personally wouldn't want a set unless they were guaranteed not to throw a code. Otherwise, might as well go catless....

[ThorsHammer]

Originally Posted by ragingclue

I understand the question.

Why get catted when they throw codes anyway? The answer is: I dunno.

I personally wouldn't want a set unless they were guaranteed not to throw a code. Otherwise, might as well go catless....

Some people want an increase in performance without the overly loud sound and smell from a fully catless system.

I have had a free-flow setup and the sound and smell were too much.

So I went back to catted, but with aftermarket Riss pipes. There is still a performance increase, but it's not as much...and it's not as loud...and not as stinky.

[ragingclue]

Originally Posted by ThorsHammer

Some people want an increase in performance without the overly loud sound and smell from a fully catless system.

I have had a free-flow setup and the sound and smell were too much.

So I went back to catted, but with aftermarket Riss pipes. There is still a performance increase, but it's not as much...and it's not as loud...and not as stinky.

True. I should have mentioned that my previous post was made assuming the secondary cats are still on the car.

Funny I never thought about it the way you're putting it. The catted, in a system with no more cats downstream, is sort of an "intermediate" option as far as performance , loudness, and stinkiness goes....

[AWD Addict]

Originally Posted by King335i

What is the point of making a catted downpipe if it throws codes just the same as the catless version?

Suckers, mostly.

[AWD Addict]

Originally Posted by Nick@Jlevi SW

You can just pick up an O2 sim to get rid of the codes but your indy mechanic should be able to clear them. If not, you can head to AutoZone or Pep Boys and borrow their code reader to clear them.

You'll still have MIL Status set at "not-ready" which is enough to still flag the mods to a dealer, and deny inspection stickers, right?.

dR

[ar design]

Our catted downpipes have yet to throw a code!

[ThorsHammer]

Originally Posted by ragingclue

True. I should have mentioned that my previous post was made assuming the secondary cats are still on the car.

Funny I never thought about it the way you're putting it. The catted, in a system with no more cats downstream, is sort of an "intermediate" option as far as performance , loudness, and stinkiness goes....

By the way...I just got your screen name. LOL. Nice. The good ol' Hardly Boys. LMAO