[dmurray14]

Hey guys,

Not to be redundant, but has anyone else had and fixed the 30FF code? Some time yesterday at the track I started getting limps and the 30FF code, now I'm getting it constantly as soon as boost would be building in second or third. I'm getting seemingly no boost at all, the car feels completely N/A and SLOW!

Any idea whats happening? I know the code means it's missing the boost target on the low end (obviously), but any idea why this might be happening? Did a hose come loose or something? Any places to look?

Thanks!

[munters]

I had the same code and in my case the two FMIC tubes got disconnected. You have a leak somewhere. did you install somthing ?

[dmurray14]

Originally Posted by munters

I had the same code and in my case the two FMIC tubes got disconnected. You have a leak somewhere. did you install somthing ?

Nope, nothing's changed. Maybe going around the track (the real one - you know, one with turns ) knocked something loose?

Any easy way to diagnose where the leak may be?

[munters]

Originally Posted by dmurray14

Nope, nothing's changed. Maybe going around the track (the real one - you know, one with turns ) knocked something loose?

Any easy way to diagnose where the leak may be?

I live in Switzerland. I know what you're talking about. between one and another town in the mountains we have 365 curves
We even don't have a dragrace track.
Because you have the code pretty quick /no boost you should see it (big loss)

[OpenFlash]

Sounds like a leak. That will cause the code as well as the sluggishness you feel before the code is triggered.

[dmurray14]

Well I've been driving it today and I'm boosting like normal (well, as normal as stock boost is). I don't get it. I guess something snapped back into place? I'm worried that it didn't and my turbos are overboosting to keep up..

[munters]

My code showed up at ~ 2800 rpm and 5-6 psi but both FMIC Pipes where completely off. (stll made up to 6psi before the code) I would really check.

[Nexus-6]

Try this - using your hand or a white paper towel, wipe along the underside of the connection between the throttle body and the charge pipe. A tight fit there, but if you have a DCI it should be easy.

If you have any trace of oil here, your charge pipe is no longer sealing under boost due to oil weeping past that o-ring. This same thing (same codes, etc) happened to me last year. It would come and go. In fact, I was rather puzzled because returning to stock made it go away - back to piggyback and I'd have it happen within 100 miles. My theory is simply that the stock 8psi isn't enough to cause the seal to weep, even when completely wet with collected oil. Much more than that, however, and it pushes it right on past that o-ring.

The fix was simple - remove the charge pipe from the car and clean it out THOROUGHLY (you will have to remove the DVs, the retaining bolt, the compression ring at the TB and the TMAP in the charge pipe). I used carb cleaner, electric contact spray and compressed air to clean it completely. Also, be sure to remove the large rubber o-ring from the throttle body end inside the charge pipe and clean it very well. Reinstall when everything is bone dry, and give that compression ring a little squeeze to get it back into shape before reinstalling that. Then, get yourself an oil catch can. My charge pipe, IC and related bits have been completely dry since installing my catch can, but were downright soaked with oil after 10K miles.

I chased this problem last year for about 2 months before realizing what it was. This may or may not be the same issue as you're having, but I had precisely the symptoms you've described. Since then, I've put 3K miles on the car with zero issues.

Hope this helps!

[dmurray14]

Originally Posted by Nexus-6

Try this - using your hand or a white paper towel, wipe along the underside of the connection between the throttle body and the charge pipe. A tight fit there, but if you have a DCI it should be easy.

If you have any trace of oil here, your charge pipe is no longer sealing under boost due to oil weeping past that o-ring. This same thing (same codes, etc) happened to me last year. It would come and go. In fact, I was rather puzzled because returning to stock made it go away - back to piggyback and I'd have it happen within 100 miles. My theory is simply that the stock 8psi isn't enough to cause the seal to weep, even when completely wet with collected oil. Much more than that, however, and it pushes it right on past that o-ring.

The fix was simple - remove the charge pipe from the car and clean it out THOROUGHLY (you will have to remove the DVs, the retaining bolt, the compression ring at the TB and the TMAP in the charge pipe). I used carb cleaner, electric contact spray and compressed air to clean it completely. Also, be sure to remove the large rubber o-ring from the throttle body end inside the charge pipe and clean it very well. Reinstall when everything is bone dry, and give that compression ring a little squeeze to get it back into shape before reinstalling that. Then, get yourself an oil catch can. My charge pipe, IC and related bits have been completely dry since installing my catch can, but were downright soaked with oil after 10K miles.

I chased this problem last year for about 2 months before realizing what it was. This may or may not be the same issue as you're having, but I had precisely the symptoms you've described. Since then, I've put 3K miles on the car with zero issues.

Hope this helps!

That's a huge help, thanks for the detailed instructions too. I'm tempted to just give it to the dealer to sort out (even though it's not doing it anymore) but I'm scared I'll get it back with 33.2 so I might have a go at it myself.

Thanks!

[Nexus-6]

Originally Posted by dmurray14

That's a huge help, thanks for the detailed instructions too. I'm tempted to just give it to the dealer to sort out (even though it's not doing it anymore) but I'm scared I'll get it back with 33.2 so I might have a go at it myself.

Thanks!

My pleasure! Not sure if it's your issue of course, but sounds awful familiar...

In any event, it should take you only a few seconds to check and at least rule it out as the culprit - you can even do so with the stock airbox, it just takes a bit more contorting to get your hand under the charge pipe. In my case, there was a trace amount of oil in the diverter valve plumbing, but not enough to indicate an issue. The bottom of the charge pipe on the other hand was actually wet with oil. The geometry of the charge pipe and how it mates with the throttle body result in this sort of natural gravity well where oil can collect overnight or if your car sits for long periods of time.

One other data point - in my case, it would happen only when boost began to build. It was rather binary - it either happened, or it didn't - no middle ground, and like yours, it would magically get better for a few days, often weeks. When it did happen, the car would begin to build boost slowly before showing a spike on the boost gauge as it stumbled and triggered limp mode. It feels like when you run a car out of gas - sputter, stumble, fart. Then, BING! Limp mode. Now that I think about it, that sounds a lot like super drunk sex.

[dmurray14]

Originally Posted by Nexus-6

My pleasure! Not sure if it's your issue of course, but sounds awful familiar...

In any event, it should take you only a few seconds to check and at least rule it out as the culprit - you can even do so with the stock airbox, it just takes a bit more contorting to get your hand under the charge pipe. In my case, there was a trace amount of oil in the diverter valve plumbing, but not enough to indicate an issue. The bottom of the charge pipe on the other hand was actually wet with oil. The geometry of the charge pipe and how it mates with the throttle body result in this sort of natural gravity well where oil can collect overnight or if your car sits for long periods of time.

One other data point - in my case, it would happen only when boost began to build. It was rather binary - it either happened, or it didn't - no middle ground, and like yours, it would magically get better for a few days, often weeks. When it did happen, the car would begin to build boost slowly before showing a spike on the boost gauge as it stumbled and triggered limp mode. It feels like when you run a car out of gas - sputter, stumble, fart. Then, BING! Limp mode. Now that I think about it, that sounds a lot like super drunk sex.

Sounds about right! The funny thing was, on the way home from the track I was trying to get as many limps as I could to get the codes and figure out what it was. I kept restarting the car after limps to get it back to normal. On some pulls it would feel perfect, boost nice and normal, then a few pulls later you could tell NOTHING was building and bingo - limp. So it sounds like something is loose somewhere for sure.


On a side note, is the DME smart enough to know not to beat the piss out of the turbos if there is a leak? Meaning, is it smart enough to know it is giving way too much wastegate DC to get the hit the boost target and throw a limp/code? Or will it work them all day if they can get the boost up even with a leak? Just curious.

Thanks again!

[JayML]

i brought my car in for 30ff

they told me it was the turbo valve vacum reservoir was cracked, causing the leak

i think its a black plastic bottle in front of the passenger side headlight.

has a black hose attached to it. was a $10 part

[TurboBimmer]

I got this code and limp mode (my first ) today, when driving on the freeway at maybe 80mph. BT scanner shows it happened at 2600 rpm. I was rolling with the traffic, not pushing the engine at all.

Took the next exit, shut off and restarted the engine and the limp mode went away. After that I drove normally for a few miles to see if everything was working normal again. Then I really pushed the car, but the problem did not reappear

BTW my car is bone stock besides a JB+. Only potential issue I'm aware of is some wastegate rattle.

Well I guess there's not much I can do about this myself. If the code ever comes back, I'll have to take the car to the dealer.

[dmurray14]

It's definitely a weird code...just the opposite of what you'd expect with a tune....should be "ladedruck zu hoch"!

[kptaylor]

Well, took my car in today to get my 30FF addressed. Happened with or without a tune installed.

I'd had both of my wastegate actuators replaced and it seems as if the mechanic split one of the the vacuum hoses that go to the wastegate actuators when he did the wastegate job. That small leak would light off the half engine light any time I went WOT from lower RPMs. Usually 2nd gear at around 4K RPM it would light up.

Small leaks really have an impact on this car!

[Ilma]

Originally Posted by kptaylor

Well, took my car in today to get my 30FF addressed. Happened with or without a tune installed.

I'd had both of my wastegate actuators replaced and it seems as if the mechanic split one of the the vacuum hoses that go to the wastegate actuators when he did the wastegate job. That small leak would light off the half engine light any time I went WOT from lower RPMs. Usually 2nd gear at around 4K RPM it would light up.

Small leaks really have an impact on this car!

This terminology gets confusing sometimes.

Do you mean the wastegate acuators - which are the round cannisters attached to the turbo that the wastegate rod attaches to? ......or the pressure control valves which control the vacuum pressure to the actuator cans ?

The pressure control valves are fairly accessible, but I dont think the actuator can is that easy to get to for the front turbo.

See this link for a schematic of the pressure control valves

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...7&postcount=25

[kptaylor]

No idea... Here's what my invoice said:

Checked vacuum pump supply to EPDW. OK. Checked actuation of EPDW to waste gate, found opening in vacuum line to turbo 2 waste gate. Replaced vacuum line to waste gate.