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      05-29-2008, 11:35 AM   #1
Huskydriver
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Oil change checklist

Threw this together for my 1200-mile break-in oil change performed last night. I recommend wearing rawhide gloves, as the oil is uncomfortably hot at operating temperature! Also, the oil drain plug is pretty tight coming from Leipzig--we can thank the robots for that. The whole process took about half an hour.

BMW 135i oil & filter change checklist
1. Warm up car to operating temperature______
2. Position car on dual wooden ramps______
3. Ensure car is chocked, parking brake set______
4. Locate and remove oil plug access door______
5. Position oil drain pan under drain plug______
6. Remove oil drain plug with 17mm wrench, discard washer______
7. Place rags around oil filter assembly______
8. Remove oil filter assembly with BMW tool and 27mm socket______
9. Replace filter with writing toward top, replace both rubber O-rings______
10. Re-install oil filter assembly, line up green dots______
11. Re-install oil drain plug with new crush gasket______
12. Torque oil drain plug to 25 nm, or 18.44 foot-pounds______
13. Fill engine with 6.9 quarts of BMW 5W30 oil______
14. Run engine for five minutes, check for leaks______
15. Check oil level on computer system______
16. Note oil change in maintenance logbook______
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      05-29-2008, 11:36 AM   #2
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perfect timing, im doing this tomorrow.
thanks!
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      05-30-2008, 09:32 PM   #3
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I wouldn't use the green dots to line up the filter cap. I've had them end up a half-inch apart after torquing it. The spec is the same 25N-m as the drain plug.

It's also a good idea to loosen the filter before draining the oil, since it holds
about a half quart of oil. Don't take it all the way out; it'll make a mess.
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      06-01-2008, 06:48 PM   #4
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is there any reason to warm up car to operating temperature?
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      06-01-2008, 07:57 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gan08 View Post
is there any reason to warm up car to operating temperature?
yes, the oil needs to be warm/hot so it will properly drain from all of the internal galley's/plumbing. you want to get as much of the dirty oil out as possible.
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      08-09-2008, 05:13 AM   #6
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Thank you very much for this...with this checklist and that video tutorial that's been posted, I'm sure my first oil changing experience will go well. About to order some oil and filter set from http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...egoryID=132126
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      08-13-2008, 10:52 AM   #7
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I just wanted to add that I recommend positioning the oil pan in a position that will collect oil dripping from the top of the skid plate in addition to the drain plug, because the warm oil will go shooting out of the oil pan drain and much of it will land on top of the skid across from the plug.

The pan should be positioned differently based on the angle your car is sitting on jacks or ramps. Use your best judgment.

Hopefully this will help a few people avoid a potential mess.
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      08-13-2008, 01:32 PM   #8
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Put a piece of cardboard across from the drain, and oil won't hit the underbody panel.
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      08-13-2008, 02:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Dragon View Post
Put a piece of cardboard across from the drain, and oil won't hit the underbody panel.
Not a bad idea, and something for me to consider for the second oil change. I actually briefly thought about it after I saw the flow that ensued once I removed the plug, but question whether it would be worth the trouble and if the resulting splashing would make much less of a mess.

I guess, using your advice, the best way to do it would be to fold a piece of cardboard and wedge it into the opening in the under body panel creating something like an up-side-down angled trough.

I don't know if my oil had more back pressure than most due to it being at full temperature and the car being on ramps, but it literally shot straight out for at least the first quart.
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      11-10-2008, 10:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xSegFaultx View Post
I just wanted to add that I recommend positioning the oil pan in a position that will collect oil dripping from the top of the skid plate in addition to the drain plug, because the warm oil will go shooting out of the oil pan drain and much of it will land on top of the skid across from the plug.

The pan should be positioned differently based on the angle your car is sitting on jacks or ramps. Use your best judgment.

Hopefully this will help a few people avoid a potential mess.
I used a 3" 90-degree PVC pipe and held it in front of the drain plug with the last few threads to go before the plug comes out. Obviously, you're going to need some good mechanic's gloves in order to prevent scalding with this trick. I used some Craftsman Professional gloves from Sears. I didn't spill one drop onto the driveway though :wink:
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      01-09-2009, 02:49 PM   #11
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Updated Checklist with community comments included

Protect hands from scalding oil with appropriate gloves.
1. Warm up car to operating temperature______
2. Position car on dual wooden ramps______
3. Ensure car is chocked, parking brake set______
4. Locate and remove oil plug access door______
5. Position oil drain pan under drain plug______
6. Position piece of cardboard across from oil drain to redirect oil flow out of
drain_____
7. Place rags around oil filter assembly______
8. Loosen but do not remove oil filter assembly with BMW tool and 27mm socket_____
9. Remove oil drain plug with 17mm wrench, discard washer______
10. Remove oil filter assembly with BMW tool and 27mm socket______
11. Replace filter with writing toward top, replace both rubber O-rings______
12. Re-install oil filter assembly, line up green dots (torque to 25nm)______
13. Re-install oil drain plug with new crush gasket______
14. Torque oil drain plug to 25 nm, or 18.44 foot-pounds______
15. Fill engine with 6 quarts of BMW 5W30 oil______
16. Run engine for five minutes, check for leaks______
17. Check oil level on computer system______
18. Add oil (up to 1 quart) until oil level shows MAX...do not overfill.
18. Note oil change in maintenance logbook______
19. Put used oil back into oil containers and drop off at any place that sells
oil______
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      01-09-2009, 07:24 PM   #12
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Should you remove the filler cap before draining? I always do - it lets the oil flow out more freely.

I used a small piece of carboard, one side of a dozen beer bottle box worked just perfect as an oil deflector. The longest part of the whole job is getting all the tools, and jacks etc, and jacking up the car. I envy anyone who has a pit in their garage.

I placed the filter cartridge the same way it came from the factory, with the writing on the bottom. I can't see how it makes any difference anyway, as it is not a directional filter.

I put in 6.5 quarts, and it was at max (still is - two weeks later)
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      01-13-2009, 07:55 PM   #13
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On the whole oil splashing thing...
A friend informed me that there are plugs/mini hoses that you can replace the oil drain plug...basically this screws into the oil drains place, and has an opening that makes it much easier to drain the oil out...anyone ever heard of this or use it on their 1 series?
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      01-28-2009, 03:00 AM   #14
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Garage List
2008 135i  [0.00]
I just did mine....Oil splashed out... Fail!!
next time I'll aim better now that I know where it's gonna hit..

Also, I drop all 6.5quarts in it.... went for a drive to warm up the car. then check oil, the computer display oil level at Dead Center... what gives? I drop the rest of the 0.5quarts in it, I'll check again tomorrow.

Checked it again this morning and oil level is at Max!

Last edited by akak1997; 01-28-2009 at 10:57 AM..
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      02-16-2009, 12:24 PM   #15
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Ultimate Checklist

I did my oil change this weekend and fine-tuned the list a little more and added a required tools and parts section at the beginning.

Here is the latests version. Enjoy:

http://godivingnow.com/bmw/oilchange.htm
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      02-19-2009, 06:12 AM   #16
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Step 20 is completely unnecessary if you add all 7 at once.
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      02-19-2009, 02:29 PM   #17
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doesnt the dealer change the oil for you for free???
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      02-19-2009, 06:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragon1761 View Post
doesnt the dealer change the oil for you for free???
yup every 15K, but most people like to change it sooner. hence the DIY
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      03-15-2009, 02:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Dragon View Post
Step 20 is completely unnecessary if you add all 7 at once.
You are absolutely right. I was a little gunshy about possibily overfilling since I didn't know if I was able to drain all of the oil using my cheap ramps...

...next time I am dumping all 7 quarts in and skipping the corresponding steps.
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      06-26-2010, 12:50 AM   #20
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how about good ole Mobil1 synthetic 5w30?

and any substitute for BWM tool?
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      06-26-2010, 03:03 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyderx View Post
how about good ole Mobil1 synthetic 5w30?

and any substitute for BWM tool?
The ONLY Mobil-1 oil that carries BMW's LL-1 is Mobil-1's 0W40!!!



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      08-11-2010, 08:34 AM   #22
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Hi:
I did my first oil change yesterday (2011 128i, 3600 km.). The drain plug had no separate copper washer. I installed the one that came with the filter, no leaks. Maybe the robots forgot the washer, maybe the car doesn't need a washer.

cheers,

Jack
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