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      03-17-2008, 02:12 PM   #1
asv
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V1 hardwire help

I have the V1 all hardwired up. I'm used this e90guide as the basis for my hardwire.

This is not a definitive guide or anything, I'm no expert. I will post details tonight.

135i Fuse Diagram



I see 07,63 on the card, but where is that in relation to the other side of the card with the representation of the fuse box here:

I chose 63 for the my V1, but FYI, it does not turn off after shutdown, so their might be a better fuse to pick.


I did the typical cutting of the V1 hardwire cable, and I crimped in to the fuse tap with V1 hardwire adaptor.


Fuse Tap


V1 adaptor ready to be crimped with fuse tap


The fuse tap in port 63, with the existing 5 fuse and a 3 for the V1



Its working!

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      03-17-2008, 07:18 PM   #2
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Did the cable route to the fuse box go easily like DYI from E90?

Let us know which fuse you do choose, I have no idea either....and since you beat me to it by 5 days being the guinea pig is your duty....hahaha.
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      03-17-2008, 07:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Templedogg View Post
Did the cable route to the fuse box go easily like DYI from E90?

Let us know which fuse you do choose, I have no idea either....and since you beat me to it by 5 days being the guinea pig is your duty....hahaha.
I'm going to try 63 and hope for the best:biggrin:. I will post pics this week.
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      03-17-2008, 07:46 PM   #4
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Yeah, I was thinking 07 or 63. Good luck and keep us posted!
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      03-17-2008, 08:11 PM   #5
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does this mean that when the things that those slots are used for turn on that the V1 wil turn on?
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      03-17-2008, 08:45 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slipkmaggot View Post
does this mean that when the things that those slots are used for turn on that the V1 wil turn on?
Yep, and you generally want to use something that is powered off when the car is off, like the PDC.
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      03-17-2008, 08:52 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asv View Post
Yep, and you generally want to use something that is powered off when the car is off, like the PDC.
PDC as in park distance control? wont that mean the v1 only turns on when you are backing up?:iono:
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      03-17-2008, 09:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slipkmaggot View Post
PDC as in park distance control? wont that mean the v1 only turns on when you are backing up?:iono:
Nope its powered all the time, just not engaged.
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      03-17-2008, 09:30 PM   #9
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ohh my bad
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      03-18-2008, 12:41 AM   #10
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how bout if your car has pdc? will that interfere with the Pdc system??
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      03-18-2008, 12:58 PM   #11
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Shoot some pics along the way and post them here. Let's get a 1Addicts install guide.

Thanks!
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      03-18-2008, 01:36 PM   #12
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All you need is a voltmeter. Turn on the ACC on the car and then check which unused point is hot. Usea standard spade lug to plug into that spot.

Very simple. Takes maybe ten minutes. All my powered aftermarket accesories are wired this way.
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      03-20-2008, 09:29 PM   #13
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ASV, did you get this done? Are you hardwiring at the top near the mirror? Is there a tint strip up there, and if so what color/how dark, etc.?
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      03-20-2008, 10:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C_Topher View Post
ASV, did you get this done? Are you hardwiring at the top near the mirror? Is there a tint strip up there, and if so what color/how dark, etc.?
I'm actually going to finish this tomorrow evening. I'm hardwiring at the fuse box, although the mirror method could work just as easily. I will post info and pics tomorrow.
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      03-20-2008, 10:18 PM   #15
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Let me know if you do the mirror option, if that is easy...that is the way to go! I ordered my hardwire cable so I will not be diving in until it arrives.
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      03-20-2008, 11:28 PM   #16
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Garage List
There is power and ground up near the sunroof switch. Grab it up there, much less wire to run
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      03-21-2008, 11:53 AM   #17
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I posted some updated pics, its working now. I will post a detailed howto tonight, but its not anything different from the e90. If I can do it, anybody can do it.
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      03-21-2008, 12:23 PM   #18
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Nice work, was the fuse box easy to access behind the glovebox? I will look forward to the full DYI pics. I still think that way will be easier than the sunroom switch even though you are routing more cable.
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      03-22-2008, 07:49 AM   #19
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Thanks much, ASV. Good pics. What are your thoughts on detector sensitivity through the tint at the top of the window?
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      03-24-2008, 09:08 PM   #20
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Well, I went ahead and ran 12volts up to my mirror, as described in this thread, and it went pretty well. I've included a few pics that are somewhat different from the pics in the e90guide version. The first shows where the wire was not hidden as it goes from the roof headliner to the A pillar cover. I might have been able to forced it in, but didn't want to mess up so I left it exposed for now. If anybody is able to make the wire go away at this point, I'd like to know about it.



The next pic is from the 135i glove compartment, showing how the wire gets from the pillar to the glove box. It is slightly different from the e90 project, but not much. After feeding the wire behind the black molding all the way to the slot (red circle on pic), I was able to push out on the plastic at the slot and feed a few inches of wire into the glove box. I was then able to reach through the glove box and pull it through, after cutting off the fuse holder and eye connector. After pulling through, I put them back on.



The next thing I did differently was, for grounding I used the big screw that is already there. The reason I used this screw is that I was reluctant to drill a hole in the metal framework, in case I wanted to put things back the way they were! It takes a T30 star socket. (When I bought the socket, the kid at the AutoZone asked me if that was my 135 outside. He knew what it was from the front, but didn't know all that much about it. Pretty soon we had the hood up. He was stunned when I ran some numbers by him. It was cool.) Anyway, the screw was somewhat hard to reach and it took a leap of faith to unscrew it, but I did and nothing fell apart. I was able to bend the eye connector and finaggle it behind the screw and tighten it down. This went much better than I expected. Once I got the eye in place the plastic next to the screw helped hold it in place while I tightened the screw. The ground wire is secure.



For some reason, I had trouble getting the 63 fuse to work for me. I used an Add-a-Circuit connector from the Auto Store. When I hooked up the Add-a-Circuit to it, my Comfort Access quit working! I then looked around for a circuit that was not fused and found that #3 was hot all the time, which is what I wanted, so I used it. It is shown as being used for seats and perhaps heated seats. I have all seat options installed, but the fuse block was empty so I used it.



Also, the Add-a-Circuit device requires correct polarity so that juice flows to the red wire. I discovered that the hot side of the fuse socket is the one that is NOT blue and has more metal exposed. The blue one is not hot. You can see an example of the blue socket on fuseblock #5, just to the right of the Add-a-Circuit. On the Add-a-circuit device, the hot leg is the one farthest from the red wire. Without this info, your odds are 50/50 of getting it right the first time.

This is a non-Valentine 1 detector, so all I needed to do was supply 12vdc to the phone connector at the mirror, which is what I did.

This connection is working as expected now, but has not been fully "road tested". I'm hoping that no unexpected events occur because of my doing this. I'm sure there are more elegant solutions to this wiring project, but maybe some of this info will save someone a little time and trouble. If any of this looks wrong I'd sure like to know about it.
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      03-24-2008, 11:01 PM   #21
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Excellent addition and pics mergen!
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      06-26-2008, 09:47 PM   #22
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Okay I found the "add a circuit" the only place in houston that caries it is Auto Zone. Used Fuse socket #5.
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