[kgibby]

Hello! If you're tackling the task of replacing your B58's oil filter housing, I wish you the best of luck. This DIY is intense, but after navigating it solo, I believe it's worthwhile, especially considering the hefty shop prices out there. Brace yourself; this job will test your skill.

Important Note: The ISTA procedure is generally spot-on, but there were some details I found missing, making the process more challenging. This thread is meant to complement the official ISTA procedure, which you can find in this directory:



Step 1: Preparation
First, you will obviously need to raise the car in all corners. Then remove all rear engine plastics and the brace. Disconnect all ECU connections on the right side of the engine. Document your progress with photos, and mark connectors for reassembly.

Step 2: Intake Manifold Removal

The intake manifold must come off. Before doing so, drain the coolant from a connector near the front of the car. On my F30 340, it was located towards the bottom of the nearest radiator to the engine on the right side. Expect coolant to drip from various places, so be prepared. Use a penetrant like WD-40 for stubborn coolant quick connections.

Step 3: Three-Way Connector Removal

After the intake manifold removal, take off the three-way connector on the block held by three e-torx 8 bolts. The third bolt may be tricky; a 1/4 socket set with thin extensions was the only way I could get it.

Step 4: Secondary Coolant Pump and More

Remove the secondary coolant pump below the intake manifold but leave the bracket. Remove the transmission heat exchanger, the fuel line bracket, and the wheel well plastic for better access.

Step 5: Tricky Bolt Under the Coolant Nozzle

The most challenging part is the e-torx 10 under the coolant nozzle on the oil filter housing. Remove this bolt first to ease the procedure. This will take some time, so be patient and don't hesitate to take a break to gather your thoughts.

Note: All of these bolts on the housing are captive, don't expect them to completely come out.

Having the new oil filter housing on hand for reference can be helpful in locating this bolt precisely. The critical tip here is to remove this difficult bolt first. If you loosen the easier bolts first, you'll lose any sight you may have had of this bolt initially, making the entire procedure tremendously harder.

For this bolt, you'll want to experiment with a mix of extensions and a swivel and go in around the lower control arm area, using the transmission heat exchanger real estate for your hands. Fish your extensions past the engine oil heat exchanger, and have a friend watch from above to guide you onto the bolt. Be patient; this might take some time. Once you have this bolt out, proceed to remove the remaining bolts—they are relatively straightforward. There are two behind where the trans heat exchanger was seated, and three easily accessible bolts near the top.

Step 6: Replacement and Reassembly

Replace the housing with the new one, following the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the easier bolts first to make the challenging lower one more accessible. Follow the ISTA torque procedure for all bolts, especially on the intake manifold. These bolts are weak and have a low torque spec. Once you have everything cooling related reconnected, I'd recommend doing a pressure test before bolting the intake manifold down to ensure you didn't miss anything.

Sometime along this process you would have drained your oil, go ahead and do a full oil change now by refilling. In my case the oil filter housing came with a filter installed, but double check this before forgetting about it.

Lastly you will need to bleed both cooling systems. You can do this with some sort of vacuum tool, or the built in bleeding procedures in the car. Kern has a good video for this. Follow his video and repeat the procedures a few times and check your coolant over the next little while to ensure it's fully bled.
Kern's bleeding video: https://youtu.be/a4kmQjNmaxU?si=Zu_YIQ5ArGFkfiK_

Step 7: ECU Connector Attention

To avoid issues post-replacement, ensure the ECU connectors are firmly replaced. Simply locking them into place may not be sufficient; these connectors can be finicky. Weird codes or trouble starting may result from improperly seated connectors.

Step 8: Additional Recommendations and Parts

Replace the intake manifold gaskets (part number: 11618637800) and the block coolant connector (part number: 11118619408) to prevent future problems. Oil filter housing (part number: 11428583895). Note, these part numbers are for gen 1, you will want to double check for your car.


Best of luck!

[lens]

Kind of wished they kept the OFH in the front like the N55, but not really.

I guess with all the pros of the B58, you have one con at least.

[kgibby]

Originally Posted by lens

Kind of wished they kept the OFH in the front like the N55, but not really.

I guess with all the pros of the B58, you have one con at least.

Yeah, can't be perfect. Common issue with other engines, just harder to access here. This being pretty much the biggest issue outside of injectors in some build year cars, isn't too bad.

[lens]

Originally Posted by kgibby

Yeah, can't be perfect. Common issue with other engines, just harder to access here. This being pretty much the biggest issue outside of injectors in some build year cars, isn't too bad.

Quite honestly, I'd rather have one slightly harder to reach maintenance item, then multiple, like the N55.

HPFP is hidden under manifold, VCG takes a while, turbo is harder to reach, electric waterpump failing means you're stuck.

I guess, it's a good time to upgrade the manifold to an aluminum one with an upgraded IC while it's off.

[XxThe_RemedyXx]

How many miles on the car?

[kgibby]

Originally Posted by XxThe_RemedyXx

How many miles on the car?

about 70k.

[zeenon53]

Can you post up the ista instructions?

[kgibby]

Originally Posted by zeenon53

Can you post up the ista instructions?

I was hesitant to do this, here is a google drive link, I do not own it. Regardless, if you are getting this deep in the car I'd recommend taking some time to get ISTA, it's possible. You will find it useful for many things.
Viewing an operation like this inside ISTA will allow you to click into part numbers, torque sequences, tools needed, etc.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yUp...73T-n6w4&pli=1

[zeenon53]

Originally Posted by kgibby

I was hesitant to do this, here is a google drive link, I do not own it. Regardless, if you are getting this deep in the car I'd recommend taking some time to get ISTA, it's possible. You will find it useful for many things.
Viewing an operation like this inside ISTA will allow you to click into part numbers, torque sequences, tools needed, etc.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yUp...73T-n6w4&pli=1

Thanks, I've had the intake manifold off many times. I can remove my RK V2 in 8 minutes. I have noticed that oil is coming down the trans right below the housing and I suspect it is leaking. I've heard mixed things replacing it, this clears things up.

[B58 parts]

Good write up. I've only done it on the engine stand which is way easier. In the car I think it would be quite a mess. I just want to underscore how big of a mess this is. When you take that thing off a lot of stuff comes out. It's a way bigger mess than you'd expect.

Use a vacuum compressed air and a clean rag etc to clean the intake manifold port area as best you can before you take it off. A lot of dirt gets there and it's hard to clean off and it'll end up falling down into the port when you pull the thing off.

Also to clean the gasket surface off I just spray it with the gasket remover and it comes right off. You don't want to use the green Scotch brite there the dust is harmful. There's a really nice special tool grindstone you can use for gasket surfaces #83300495104

[kgibby]

Originally Posted by B58 parts

Good write up. I've only done it on the engine stand which is way easier. In the car I think it would be quite a mess. I just want to underscore how big of a mess this is. When you take that thing off a lot of stuff comes out. It's a way bigger mess than you'd expect.

Use a vacuum compressed air and a clean rag etc to clean the intake manifold port area as best you can before you take it off. A lot of dirt gets there and it's hard to clean off and it'll end up falling down into the port when you pull the thing off.

Also to clean the gasket surface off I just spray it with the gasket remover and it comes right off. You don't want to use the green Scotch brite there the dust is harmful. There's a really nice special tool grindstone you can use for gasket surfaces #83300495104

Nice tips, I forgot to include that. I ran this post through chatgpt to clean up the formatting and it lost some detail. I added most back, but I think there was a section about the mess I forgot to rewrite. You are very right, it is a MESS. You really need to be ready for it, I wasn't and my fresh garage floor pad is stained. Good tip with the intake manifold dirt, it does fall into the intakes. I sprayed compressed air and still had a few leaf pieces I had to fish out.

[kgibby]

Originally Posted by zeenon53

Thanks, I've had the intake manifold off many times. I can remove my RK V2 in 8 minutes. I have noticed that oil is coming down the trans right below the housing and I suspect it is leaking. I've heard mixed things replacing it, this clears things up.

I think the most common leak tends to be coolant from here, but mine was an oil leak. I haven't heard of many slow leaks from the OFH, but it could be. Mine was leak free and all of a sudden was losing lots fast.

[zeenon53]

Originally Posted by kgibby

I think the most common leak tends to be coolant from here, but mine was an oil leak. I haven't heard of many slow leaks from the OFH, but it could be. Mine was leak free and all of a sudden was losing lots fast.

Have you found drips when parked? I've only found a few but the trans pan is covered. I imagine I am losing it when in motion.

[B58 parts]

Originally Posted by kgibby

Nice tips, I forgot to include that. I ran this post through chatgpt to clean up the formatting and it lost some detail. I added most back, but I think there was a section about the mess I forgot to rewrite. You are very right, it is a MESS. You really need to be ready for it, I wasn't and my fresh garage floor pad is stained. Good tip with the intake manifold dirt, it does fall into the intakes. I sprayed compressed air and still had a few leaf pieces I had to fish out.

Yeah I had a square plastic pan nicely sitting underneath the engine stand, and the volume and /or rate of fluid caused the pan to tip off the engine stand and spill all over the garage floor. Put cardboard all over the place on the floor.

Also I read a post that said the leak could be caused by over tightening the cap when doing an oil change. I don't know about that, but if you think about it it might be possible. It is all plastic. If you crank on the cap maybe it twist something out and it'll start to leak. So 25 Newton meters it is. Not worth gambling having to do this job over it. And also I never used it on the drain plug either but turns out I've been under tightening that, so I do that too now.

[kgibby]

Originally Posted by B58 parts

Yeah I had a square plastic pan nicely sitting underneath the engine stand, and the volume and /or rate of fluid caused the pan to tip off the engine stand and spill all over the garage floor. Put cardboard all over the place on the floor.

Also I read a post that said the leak could be caused by over tightening the cap when doing an oil change. I don't know about that, but if you think about it it might be possible. It is all plastic. If you crank on the cap maybe it twist something out and it'll start to leak. So 25 Newton meters it is. Not worth gambling having to do this job over it. And also I never used it on the drain plug either but turns out I've been under tightening that, so I do that too now.

I read this as well and have started to torque it to spec since doing this miserable job, but I'm doubtful my leak near the heat exchanger had anything to do with that. I guess overtightening could cause issues higher up, but I have no idea.

[kgibby]

Originally Posted by zeenon53

Have you found drips when parked? I've only found a few but the trans pan is covered. I imagine I am losing it when in motion.

Mine was dripping onto the fabric bottom tray, and consequently right onto the ground. It leaked onto that tray and subframe while parked, nothing on the trans pan. I would drop this undertray and see what it looks like, it's possible yours isn't as heavy, and is making its way to the trans pan before leaking through the fabric undertray. Look for oil coming from the trans cooler area, you can see right into it without that main undertray.

[zeenon53]

Originally Posted by kgibby

Mine was dripping onto the fabric bottom tray, and consequently right onto the ground. It leaked onto that tray and subframe while parked, nothing on the trans pan. I would drop this undertray and see what it looks like, it's possible yours isn't as heavy, and is making its way to the trans pan before leaking through the fabric undertray. Look for oil coming from the trans cooler area, you can see right into it without that main undertray.

I don't run that pan anymore

[magbarn]

Nice writeup! I've got about 60,000 miles on mine. Should we replacing these as preventative maintenance or just wait for the leaks to start?

[B58 parts]

I wouldn't do it if it wasn't leaking. Unless you're bored and you got a whole Saturday to burn and want to accept the risks. Its fun and rewarding if it goes well. Actually given that you have to drain the coolant though that's not fun. I would never do that for kicks. Maybe replace the rear main seal preventatively while you're at it. Plus factory sealed is always the best.

[kgibby]

Originally Posted by magbarn

Nice writeup! I've got about 60,000 miles on mine. Should we replacing these as preventative maintenance or just wait for the leaks to start?

Unless you are some kind of masochist, definitely wait it out lol. The details are pretty well documented at this point, but it's made up of a bunch of tricky steps, no fun at all. It probably took me a dozen hours on stands in my garage, mostly trial and error.

[will1209]

So I just did this a couple of days ago and I wanted to share my experience. Personally, the hardest part of this job was dealing with the intake manifold hoses lol. As for the housing bolts, they were surprisingly fairly easy to remove. I removed them all from the top without having to remove the oil filter housing at all in about 10-15min. The trick to getting the bottom 3 bolts is to use a medium 3/8 extension and fit it onto the bolt first then connect your ratchet & loosen away. For the very bottom bolt of the two in between the trans cooler, I just attached a swivel onto the end of the extension to get the extra leverage I needed to break it loose. As Per OP it's great to have the replacement housing in hand to get an idea of where the bolts sit exactly. The two bolts in between the oil cooler also have indents from the heat exchanger that helped me navigate immensely. All in all the job wasn't toooooo crazy, just take your time and be extra mindful of the hoses and bolts, also highly recommend taking care of some of the hoses and flanges while you're already there. I ended up replacing the coolant flange of the engine block as it was beginning to leak as well as a handful of hoses. It's a good piece of mind. Lastly, If you do it all from up top theirs no need to remove the fuel line bracket, center brace, and obv trans cooler. I only removed the transmission splash shield for the sake of getting some light from below to help see the bolts.

[k1k1]

Do you have to prime the oil system after changing the oil filter housing? If so is there a specific method?