[sub150]

Well, I replaced the starter and ended up with a bigger problem.

Last weekend I replaced the starter with my dad. Intake manifold off, put in the starter, put everything back together. New intake manifold gaskets and throttle body gasket. Was a pain in parts but overall no issues. Car starts right up and drives normally around the block.

Take it to work. Drive about 15 minutes under 50 mph..a little juice here and there, and then get on the highway. About 8 miles in I'm cruising in 5th going about 75-80 and limp mode. I believe I was doing a light acceleration when it happened but honestly not sure.

Flashers on, get it to an exit and park it. Let is rest and restart it and drive it the last 3 miles on side streets with no limp mode and plug in my Foxwell. Have been driving it around side streets keeping revs under 3k no problems.

These are the codes.

2A82 - DME: Vanos intake
2D59 - DME: DME: internal fault monitoring actual torque
2DED - DME: DME: Power management, closed0circuit current violation

5DC2 - DSC: Wheel-speed sensor: increment gear, rear right
5DC3 - DSC: Wheel-speed sensor: plausibility rear right

5E19 - DSC: Engine management interface

Driver’s side footwell module | 3 | Fault3

9CB5 FRM: Battery exhausted

Now, I don't have the right rear wheel speed sensor on right now. That code has been there a while, I bought a new sensor, and it didn't fit. So I bought another new one that got delivered today. I'm assuming that has nothing to do with limp mode. Could be a bearing issue if the sensor doesn't fix it.

The battery is brand new. I replaced that before the starter about a month ago.

Is the move to replace the VANOS solenoid? I have pretty solid records of the car from the previous owner (bought from this site) and see no records of them being replaced in the last 40k miles.

Thanks in advance!

[gbalthrop]

ALL E91's are NOT alike. Many wiring/fuse/electrical & Module changes over the years, and fault code definition depends upon Module SGBD/Variant. So if you want competent forum help, please provide:
1) Last-7 Characters of your vehicle's VIN;
2) Brand/Model of any Scan Tool (Foxwell Model) or Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) you have access to;
2a) can Foxwell/Scan Tool display Freeze Frame Data of DME Faults? Can it display Live Data, such as Cam Angles?
3) Whether or not you have DMM (Digital Multimeter), $7 HFT, $10 Amazon;
4) Did you scan for codes BEFORE you replaced Starter? If so, what codes were present, other than Wheel Speed Sensor?
5) What warning lights appear on Instrument Cluster? Half-engine? SES? Other?
5a) Does any warning light go OFF, and normal engine operation return, if you simply STOP engine and Re-START?
6) What is your system voltage (measured with DMM at Jumpstart Terminals, or at Lighter Socket), with Engine Running & Alternator Charging?
George

[sub150]

1) A189729 (2009)
2) Foxwell NT510 Elite
2a) Not sure. I can do a little research. When the car is on I can definitely read some real time data.
3) I do
4) Not recently. Only codes I have ever got were wheel speed sensor, parking distance control, and some lighting codes.
5) It was a red engine light. Have not had anything return other than the normal ABS ones that have been on the last year.
5a) It did. I waited approximately 2-3 minutes between stop and start.
6) Can measure later today.

[marvinstockman]

You probably don't have to even get off the highway. Put car in neutral, shut off, restart, put car in drive.

Try it when the road is not crowded.

[sub150]

14.4 volts when idling in the driveway.

Confirmed I can just restart it while driving..did it today.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by sub150

... These are the codes:
2A82 - DME: Vanos intake

2D59 - DME: DME: internal fault monitoring actual torque
5DC2 - DSC: Wheel-speed sensor: increment gear, rear right
5DC3 - DSC: Wheel-speed sensor: plausibility rear right
5E19 - DSC: Engine management interface

9CB5 FRM: Battery exhausted
2DED - DME: DME: Power management, closed0circuit current violation...
The battery is brand new. I replaced that before the starter about a month ago. Is the move to replace the VANOS solenoid?

I would BEGIN by DIAGNOSING the Intake VANOS Solenoid. There is NO particular reason that Intake VANOS Solenoid should fail following removing Intake Manifold & Starter. There IS a possibility that wiring was damaged causing an intermittent electrical fault in the Intake Cam Position Sensor or the Intake VANOS Solenoid signals to/from the DME.

See the attached pdf: NT510Elite Manual, for information on the FUNCTIONS your Foxwell Scan Tool can perform:
1) Freeze Frame Data: p.17 of pdf; FF Data or Fault Details ALSO includes mileage/km at which code saved;
2) "History Memory" or "History Codes". These are discussed at top of p.17. Keep in mind that the guys that write the software that "hacks" into the computers in your E91 don't necessarily have the SAME concept of "HistorienSpeicher" / History Memory as the guys in Munich who designed & built your car. INPA allows one to view History Memory in certain modules, to see previous "DTC's" which have been cleared (from "FehlerSpeicher" / Fault Memory, and are no longer "Active" or "Currently Present". If your alternator is charging (14.4V with engine running) and you have a new battery, I have to wonder if you read "History Memory" for the codes related to battery;
3) Live Data: pp.19-22 of pdf. I would begin by determining what Live Data related to Intake Cam Angle and Intake VANOS Solenoid can be displayed, and then viewing that data with engine at idle. This will give you an idea of whether or not your "Intake Cam Timing is Over-retarded" fault (2A82) is intermittent or constant. This also gives you a "baseline" for comparison of Live Data when the fault is "Currently Present". My 3/2007 build 328xi, at idle (660 RPM), has Intake Cam Angle ~ 85 CRK and Exhaust Cam Angle ~ -115 CRK.

There are MANY things that can cause intermittent "Over-retarded" cam angle. Electrical fault in Cam Position Sensor or VANOS Solenoid Connector or wiring between Component & DME; Sludge or anything blocking screen on VANOS Solenoid, reducing Oil Pressure; collapsed oil filter element, missing "Spool" holding oil filter element to OFH Cap; missing small O-ring on Spool; those are ones most-frequently reported.

Freeze Frame Data related to 2A82 Fault code would be helpful. Intermittent Over-retarded Cam Timing usually occurs at Low RPM and High engine temperature, or when oil viscosity is lowest/ thinnest. You indicated that your "Limp Mode" occurred at ~ 80 in 5th gear (4,000 RPM?). THAT suggests a wiring or electrical issue.

In summary:
I would suggest learning ALL the Functions of your NT510Elite, including FF Data, Live Data, History Memory, etc.
Once you understand those functions, you can create your own methods for Diagnosing or Testing.

BTW, you say you bought a new sensor (RR Wheel Speed) but it didn't fit. HOW did it NOT fit? Does the Newer sensor now fit OK? Does your model have: (1) a "Toothed Reluctor" that pulses the sensor, or (2) a magnetic pulse provided by the Wheel Bearing?
Was there obvious wear on the END of the old sensor you removed, such as from scraping on reluctor/bearing?
If so, you might try a spacer to provide proper air gap.
George

[sub150]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

BTW, you say you bought a new sensor (RR Wheel Speed) but it didn't fit. HOW did it NOT fit? Does the Newer sensor now fit OK? Does your model have: (1) a "Toothed Reluctor" that pulses the sensor, or (2) a magnetic pulse provided by the Wheel Bearing?
Was there obvious wear on the END of the old sensor you removed, such as from scraping on reluctor/bearing?
If so, you might try a spacer to provide proper air gap.
George

Sensor had the wrong connector on one end. Correct one is on the left. The one on the right was listed at RockAuto for the car.



I will play around with the Foxwell and live data. Thank you for all the info! If I don't come up with anything I have a variety of shops around with INPA that can do a full diagnosis for relatively small fee.

I was definitely not at 4k RPM's. I'd say I was under 3k, possibly closer to 2500. May have been 6th gear...not sure.

It has happened twice more just piddling around town. Once going uphill at like 2400 RPMs in 3rd and the other going downhill in 2nd/3rd also in low RPM's. Definitely happened when I pressed the gas but it wasn't like I was flooring it.

[sub150]

So I do not have the ability to look at historical data or freeze fame. All I can do is just look at the code. I do not have the F2 Freeze Frame option in the manual.



I have the same values as you at idle



Not sure if this is useful at all


Version of the unit



I am overdue for an oil change. Seems like that may be a decent place to start so will get to that this weekend. I'm also keen on this thread (https://www.e90post.com/forums/showt...6#post30602996) because my car does not like 110* temps + AC on + quick RPM drop when pushing in the clutch. I see the Camshaft Positioning Sensor in both threads, as well as the solenoids themselves.

[sub150]

Update on this. Oil change, new camshaft sensors, new solenoids…problem still persists.

Will likely take it to an indy shop and have them check it out.

[sub150]

Went to the shop today. They said part of the tone ring is missing as well as it being "very rusty" in the hub.

Suggested a genuine BMW wheel bearing and potentially a new hub. This is for the right rear. I don't even see the tone ring on some of the wheel bearings I am looking at. I live in a big city with plenty of junk yards so wondering if I can just get a full hub from a junk car. Assuming since I can't buy a tone ring it is part of the bearing..maybe I am just missing it. Need to get in there and look around.

Not finding to much on wheel bearing replacement. Seems like there are a couple options for DIY from special tools to just removing the hub and using a press.

[Bims328i]

There was only one issue when I did my starter and that was there were two plugs I got mixed up. When removing them I was like "oh they are different # of pins, you can't mix em' up" then found out you actually can when putting it back together (split over a few days until the starter arrived, I had everything ready to drop the new starter in). They were two and three pinned connectors that go on two points on the intake manifold, I actually managed to get them mixed up and spent a good 30 mins confused as to where the other 3-prong connector went until I realized what I did.