[abarton26]

09 E-92 Amp got wet; car was running before I located the wet amp; dried out water and amp; now car won't start.

Disconnected negative on battery to reset. Getting locks, lights, instrument panel, radio, time, etc but no crank or start.

I'm guessing it could be the starter, but with water intrusion wanted to start at electrical first.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
AB

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

No codes at all?

[ppointer]

The starters in the N52 motors are a known weakness. Were you getting any symptoms prior to the wet amp? When a starter in my old e91 began acting like low battery, it wasn't long after that the starter died. Hate to throw parts at it without knowing with certainty. Has the starter in that car ever been replaced?

[Efthreeoh]

My E90 took 2 weeks to fully dry out after I dumped 64 ounces of water in the trunk. I disconnected the battery and let the car sit for two weeks. Reconnected the battery, then jumpstarted it. That was 18 months ago. Been fine ever since. Have no technical explanation for it.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by abarton26

09 E-92 Amp got wet; car was running before I located the wet amp; dried out water and amp; now car won't start... Getting locks, lights, instrument panel, radio, time, etc but no crank or start...

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

My E90 took 2 weeks to fully dry out after I dumped 64 ounces of water in the trunk. I disconnected the battery and let the car sit for two weeks. Reconnected the battery, then jumpstarted it. That was 18 months ago. Been fine ever since. Have no technical explanation for it.

AB, was/is there water in your Battery Well? Are you aware that all the components/ systems you describe as working are powered by DIFFERENT B+ voltage supply cable (Cable running INSIDE vehicle to JB fuse panel), than the Starter, which is powered by a B+ Cable that runs UNDER car from "Transfer Point" at Bottom-Front of Battery Well. If there is water covering that Outboard Transfer Point, you will NOT get enough voltage at the Jumpstart Terminal under Hood, to power the Starter.

How to test for lack of proper voltage to Jumpstart Terminal:
1) Measure Voltage at Jumpstart Terminal under Hood (Red Plastic Cap);
2) Compare with Voltage (in reference to Chassis Ground) at (+) Battery Post.
3) If Voltage measured at Battery Post is significantly GREATER than voltage measured at Jumpstart terminal, then you likely have an issue caused by water at the "Transfer Point" for B+ supply to Jumpstart Terminal, and Starter.

You can also test Starter & Starter Solenoid, by "Hotwiring", or applying voltage to a connector in the E-box under the Hood: X6011/1, or Socket #1 of Connector X6011. That is where the Black wire from KL50 of the CAS Module sends Voltage to the Starter Solenoid. If the Solenoid does NOT click, then likely the Starter Solenoid has failed. If the Solenoid clicks, but the Starter does NOT Crank/ Turn the engine, then likely either: (1) the Starter is NOT getting sufficient B+ voltage, (2) the Ground Cable at the Starter is failing, or (3) the Starter itself is defective.

While a failing Starter Motor/ Solenoid is the most likely cause of the issue reported by AB in this case, there are TESTS that can be done with proper Diagnostic Software such as INPA or ISTA, to test CAS Terminal Voltages, or to read Fault Codes in CAS Fault Memory (such as A0B4).

It would be a shame to take all the time to replace the Starter (after removing the Intake Manifold), only to find you STILL have a "NO Crank" issue that needs proper diagnosis.
George

[Hoody007]

I’ll also add that the CAS can flag for a faulty starter - I’d scan the car with ISTA and see if it’s flagged an error.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Hoody007

I’ll also add that the CAS can flag for a faulty starter - I’d scan the car with ISTA and see if it’s flagged an error.

AFAIK, the A0B4 Fault Code in CAS Module only means that when START button was pressed (foot on brake/clutch), NO engine RPM was detected (from Crank Sensor Input to DME). Interpreting that as Starter Failure can lead to wasted time/ money. While a bad Starter CAN cause A0B4 CAS code, other wiring faults, or even a bad Crank Sensor signal to DME can cause it. Fault Codes are ALWAYS a good place to START Diagnosis, BUTTT...

Devil is ALWAYS in the DETAILS.
George

[Hoody007]

gbalthrop

I stand corrected!