Reluctor ring size / replacement?

fiveightandten · 09-16-2023, 07:47 PM

I have a 2011 328i xDrive, which has reluctor rings on the front CVs for ABS tone. Corrosion has deformed the LF ring.

The only sources I’m seeing for replacement rings are Amazon and eBay, and the application data generally says up to 2009 and that my car is not compatible.

Has anyone had luck with replacing reluctor rings on 2010 or 2011 xDrive car? Are they 79mm ID? Same as earlier cars?

fiveightandten · 09-30-2023, 01:09 PM

As an update to this for anyone searching;

The 79mm reluctor rings off Amazon fit on my axle, but the corrosion was pretty bad and by the time I cleaned it down to sound material it was no longer true. So the ring fit, but was giving uneven tone to the sensor. Repairing like this will be hit or miss as you need the ring to be an even circle to work properly.

At the time of this post; FCP Euro and other suppliers have GKN OE spec replacement axles for $472 or thereabouts. NAPA has a no-name replacement for $85, which I bought and decided it was junk. The boots were very thin, and there was not powder coating on the caps, so I figured the NAPA axle would just corrode again in short order. I installed the $472 GKN axle from FCP euro, which is nice quality and popped right in.

A few tips:
--You won't be able to tell if the axle can be saved until you take things apart. So I'd recommend buying a new axle in case you need it. The reluctor rings are $8, so it's best to be armed with both options.

--You don't need to remove the trailing link arm to get the axle out. The tie rod end and the center control arm both need to come out. The link arm gives more clearance, but if you're fighting with it, you can squeeze the axle out with it connected. Loosen the strut mount nuts for some wiggle room.

--Torque specs for the axle nut is 310 ft-lbs. I spent the $250 on a Neiko torque multiplier off Amazon to make sure I could get this up to spec, as most torque wrenches only go to 250 ft-lbs. Without this, you can wing it, or get a torque wrench that goes high enough. The nut is 36 mm 12 point (you need a 12 point socket).

-Self locking castle nuts are 24mm, which is the same as 15/16ths. The center one is very close to the CV boot so you'll either need a 3/8" ratchet with a compact head and shallow socket, or to just use a standard 12 point box end wrench. A ratcheting wrench will not fit, as the spindle arm clearance is tight. Get new nuts as they're one time use.

Hope that helps someone in the future. Good luck!

09-16-2023, 07:47 PM	#1
fiveightandten Private 111 Rep 81 Posts Drives: F22 M235, E36 M3, E30 325, E90 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Connecticut iTrader: (0)	I have a 2011 328i xDrive, which has reluctor rings on the front CVs for ABS tone. Corrosion has deformed the LF ring. The only sources I’m seeing for replacement rings are Amazon and eBay, and the application data generally says up to 2009 and that my car is not compatible. Has anyone had luck with replacing reluctor rings on 2010 or 2011 xDrive car? Are they 79mm ID? Same as earlier cars? Attached Images
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09-30-2023, 01:09 PM	#2
fiveightandten Private 111 Rep 81 Posts Drives: F22 M235, E36 M3, E30 325, E90 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Connecticut iTrader: (0)	As an update to this for anyone searching; The 79mm reluctor rings off Amazon fit on my axle, but the corrosion was pretty bad and by the time I cleaned it down to sound material it was no longer true. So the ring fit, but was giving uneven tone to the sensor. Repairing like this will be hit or miss as you need the ring to be an even circle to work properly. At the time of this post; FCP Euro and other suppliers have GKN OE spec replacement axles for $472 or thereabouts. NAPA has a no-name replacement for $85, which I bought and decided it was junk. The boots were very thin, and there was not powder coating on the caps, so I figured the NAPA axle would just corrode again in short order. I installed the $472 GKN axle from FCP euro, which is nice quality and popped right in. A few tips: --You won't be able to tell if the axle can be saved until you take things apart. So I'd recommend buying a new axle in case you need it. The reluctor rings are $8, so it's best to be armed with both options. --You don't need to remove the trailing link arm to get the axle out. The tie rod end and the center control arm both need to come out. The link arm gives more clearance, but if you're fighting with it, you can squeeze the axle out with it connected. Loosen the strut mount nuts for some wiggle room. --Torque specs for the axle nut is 310 ft-lbs. I spent the $250 on a Neiko torque multiplier off Amazon to make sure I could get this up to spec, as most torque wrenches only go to 250 ft-lbs. Without this, you can wing it, or get a torque wrench that goes high enough. The nut is 36 mm 12 point (you need a 12 point socket). -Self locking castle nuts are 24mm, which is the same as 15/16ths. The center one is very close to the CV boot so you'll either need a 3/8" ratchet with a compact head and shallow socket, or to just use a standard 12 point box end wrench. A ratcheting wrench will not fit, as the spindle arm clearance is tight. Get new nuts as they're one time use. Hope that helps someone in the future. Good luck!
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