Nitrous oxide for dummies....

[krnnerdboy]

Hey guys,
I had my z4m for about 2 month now and figured I'd start adding some power just to make up for my lack there of... j/k. Here is my step by step install for the Z4m. I am not in anyway an expert, in fact this is my first time dealing w/nitrous on any engine. I felt the venerable s54 with the iron block was the perfect candidate for nitrous...in fact there are people running 250 shot direct port of course and 150 shot with the single nozzle like mine safely w/o incident...but I don't recommend over a 100 shot on our motors with the single nozzle b/c of the manifold design.

Please keep this thread clean by not commenting on the pros and cons of nitrous but rather a database

my kit is a Zex wet universal kit w/ the single nozzle 75 shot (40 nitrous/21 fuel)

1) plumb the nitrous line from the trunk to the engine bay
this will be the plastic panel on the drivers side that you will remove w/ a 10mm socket

I put it through the battery hole in the trunk and zip tied it to the battery line all the way up to the engine bay

2) I mounted the solenoid on the lower intake box...not only because it's more stealth but b/c that engine bay is pretty tight! Make sure you check clearances of the lines before drilling it in


3) I drilled the intake elbow for the nozzle. Placement seems to be a controversy on our motors b/c of the I T B(individual throttle boddies) and it's hard to get equal distribution, but the most accepted placement seems to be facing the drivers side mirror.



4) connect the WOT switch by tapping into the white wire on the throttle position sensor with a T tap(look at pics for location)


5) next this applies to zex kits only...teach the NMU what WOT is. Since our cars are drive by wire as most cars these days are...you can't do the conventional way by stepping on the pedal. turn the key to On position w/o starting it and go to the engine bay w/ a 10mm socket and turn this clockwise untill it stops (about 1/2 turn) for 10 sec


6) install the switch...you're on your own as I'm still working on it

7) Now the hardest part... the fuel line tap. Located by removing the piece with the vents on it w/ 10mm socket. But you can see it from the engine as well if you just remove the intake.


the under view would be this


Now that you located it.
a) turn the motor on
b) locate the fuse for the fuel pump behind the glove box
c) pull that fuse and keep it off untill the install is finished
by doing that you relieved alot of the 70psi of pressure. Now cut that line using sturdy scissors! and tap it in.



8) almost there...time to mount the bottle. Definitely not the best way but it worked...


after taking that picture I redid it with a whole piece that mocked the floor board and stuck it to the floor using industrial velcro. I used a large 1/4 inch cutting board instead of wood b/c I just dont think wood belongs in cars...



9) Just get the bottle filled and warmed to 950psi and you are ready to go! check the plugs after running to ensure even distribution

updates coming with how it ran and safety gear!! it's raining in so cal...I'll wait

[Burt Reynolds]

ambitious and fun sounding- let us know how it goes.

[MMMazing07]

nice!! i cant wait for some real driving time updates. should be hella fast!!!

[O-cha]

FYI in accessory 2 with the car off hitting the accelerator actually does open the throttles.

[ZStig]

hmm, I just ordered the same battery, im guessing p680. I'd mount the bottle sideways though, so I could use the trunk

[tintboy]

Cant wait to see your results.

[krnnerdboy]

Originally Posted by O-cha

FYI in accessory 2 with the car off hitting the accelerator actually does open the throttles.

how did you that? just tried it again and no movement for me??

[krnnerdboy]

So I woke up today a little earlier than usual as if waking up to Christmas morning....to hear silence(the sound of no rain). I quickly warmed up the vehicle and checked bottle pressure at 750psi(not optimal, but will do) and jump on the nearest on ramp. I arm the system and put into second and throttle it down...I feel no G force just wheel spin(but no weird noises)...put into third at 4k rpm and throttle down again. This time the car goes and goes...

this is my reaction after running through half the bottle!!

It actually feels like how it is on GT4 The power band actually still feels very stock with an extra kick...feels alot like boost and not so on/off. The car runs so smooth I can see why people want to run bigger shots. If I had to describe my butt dyno...I don't think you realize how much faster it is untill you start getting tunnel vision b/c your not used to computing information that fast...alot like the first time I did a 0-160 on my R1, but eventually your mind will catch up and you want to go faster

Once I find a track/m3/z06 we'll see some quantitative info but for now IT was worth it b/c I can now say "NAaWWWZ just kicked in YO wooooooohh!"

[iranmeba]

How much did the kit cost?

[krnnerdboy]

the cost was only 250 b/c it was used on craigslist...the cost of scoop/filter(only guaranteed hp)...brand new you can get it for 550 shipped. I am going to get the scoop/filter though once the backorders are filled

[krnnerdboy]

update: I checked my wiring as the nitrous was working intermittently only. Turns out my wiring was too long for the 14gauge that I used and was only powering the solenoid to budge open and not fully. There is now definitely a big hit and almost on/off switch feeling w/ just the 75 shot!!!

so make sure when you run wiring for anything that the gauge to length is correct.

[O-cha]

Holy crap, what kind of power does that solenoid use to overdraw 14 gauge wire? You sure you didn't just have a bad connection that got fixed when you changed the wire?

[krnnerdboy]

Originally Posted by O-cha

Holy crap, what kind of power does that solenoid use to overdraw 14 gauge wire? You sure you didn't just have a bad connection that got fixed when you changed the wire?

it was actually 18gauge, sorry, but i think it was a combination of the wiring gauge and also a bad crimp on the connector....when i gave slight pull the wires came apart alittle too easily whoops the solenoid is actually only draws 10 amp

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by krnnerdboy

it was actually 18gauge, sorry, but i think it was a combination of the wiring gauge and also a bad crimp on the connector....when i gave slight pull the wires came apart alittle too easily whoops the solenoid is actually only draws 10 amp

Only? 10 amps is actually a lot. No wonder.

[BimmerZealot]

Video!!!

[Burt Reynolds]

vidoe or ban!

[ElegantSpoon]

Originally Posted by Burt Reynolds

vidoe or ban!

Haha I second that!

[krnnerdboy]

haha I was actually waiting for my RPI scoop from Rom3n to make a comparison video against my buddies 335i...I guess I can squeeze the button for a run

[BimmerZealot]

Yes yes, squeeze squeeze

On a side note, since you did Nitrous i'm guessing you know where the firewall gasket is to run your switch to the cabin. Can you point it out? I need help finding it for a different mod. Thanks

[krnnerdboy]

Originally Posted by BimmerZealot

Yes yes, squeeze squeeze

On a side note, since you did Nitrous i'm guessing you know where the firewall gasket is to run your switch to the cabin. Can you point it out? I need help finding it for a different mod. Thanks

sure it's on the passenger side right in front of the glove box...and to access it from the interior you just take off the panel underneath the glove box. 2 screws and 1 pop off

GL

[BimmerZealot]

Oh, sweet thanks. I'll take a look at that location, another member mentioned on the driver side behind the intake manifold there is a plug on the Z4M and on the non-M its where the sound generator attaches to the firewall.

[Bammered]

VIDEO!!!!!!! please....