[outofphase]

Hey folks, 2015 335i xDrive (EWG). Currently at 69k miles, been FBO and running a custom Cary Jordan E30 tune since 40k with essentially zero issues. My goal from the beginning was to shoot for a 600+ “reliable” whp, so since purchasing the car @ 40k miles, I’ve been obsessive about maintenance and have taken the “if it breaks, upgrade it” approach. The plan now is to go with a gen 2 precision 6266, with a kit from speedtech or a custom fabricated solution from a good fabricator buddy of mine who I trust.

Current mods:

• VRSF chargepipe, catless downpipe, 5” FMIC
• XDI-60 HPFP
• GFB DV+
• Fuel-It! Upgraded fuel lines, BT flex fuel analyzer
• Custom straight-through exhaust
• tuned on bm3
• XHP Stage 3

Maintenance Already Done:

• Diff and trans fluid replaced @ 60k miles
• Compression/leakdown tested @ 65k miles, 180 and 10% on all cylinders
• New NGK 97506 plugs gapped to .020
• New ignition coils
• New OE injectors
• New OFHG + Mosselman Thermostat
• New OEM water pump and replaced all coolant hoses/lines that were looking brittle/weak
• Oil + Filter changed every 2500 miles using Liqui-moly 5w-40

Planned Maintenance + Mods

• Tensioner, Idler pulley, accessory belt
• Crank seal guard
• Vargas crank hub bolt capture
• Replace Valve Cover + Gasket
• Phoenix Racing intake manifold
• Port injection (necessary considering I’ve got the XDI-60 or not?)
• Walnut blasting
• Cold Air Intake (any rec’s for running a big turbo?)
• Bigger intercooler (rec’s welcome)
• 3.5bar TMAP sensor swap

If there’s anything I’m missing, or anything y’all think is unnecessary or would change, please let me know! Car’s not a daily, just a fun weekend car with a handful of trips to the drag strip every year. No road courses or auto cross. I’m aware these power levels are stretching the limits of the stock block, but I’ve got a truck/trailer and if it breaks, it’s just an excuse to build a new motor

[AmuroRay]

https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1934633

[thejeremyman9]

What fuel do you plan to run? You can go full E85 DI but you will need a LPFP, bigger HPFP/lift kit, and bigger injectors. I don't have a link to the main thread, but there's one person who is pushing this setup. For the IC, get a race (there's really just two main options, 3 if you count the wagner 3).

[AmuroRay]

Use a better oil - Motul 300v, look up the black stone testing on it. Also,
You can do the FCP Euro lifetime replacement with it.

CTS or Injen Intake - better for response and power (but not much) and they look nice.

Race IC - VRSF over (BMS due to the stupid cheesy diverted) MAD if you want a slightly less expensive option

Stock or M2 spark plugs - the NGKs are garbage.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

Use a better oil - Motul 300v, look up the black stone testing on it. Also,
You can do the FCP Euro lifetime replacement with it.

CTS or Injen Intake - better for response and power (but not much) and they look nice.

Race IC - VRSF over (BMS due to the stupid cheesy diverted) MAD if you want a slightly less expensive option

Stock or M2 spark plugs - the NGKs are garbage.

Has anyone collected IAT logs on MAD yet?

Curious if there's a reason that you didn't include MST Intake in your list?

What issues have you had with NGK's?

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by johnung

Has anyone collected IAT logs on MAD yet?

Curious if there's a reason that you didn't include MST Intake in your list?

What issues have you had with NGK's?

Yes, Mike Xph did a log on the MAD, in terms of ‘ABSOLUTES’ it wasn’t quite as good as a VRSF-R, otherwise it’s a solid alternative.

The MST, no opinion - it just didn’t come to mind. To be honest, Injen would be my first go to. We have a few independent dynos on the forums that they work - and considering most intakes are a tube with a filter, they all are pretty similar with a few exceptions. The CTS being one, because it’s hexagonal housing leads to very few (if any) CELs.

You can generally find both of these for sale on the forums. The general rule is just get any open filter intake, I would avoid the flat BMS, and Dinan. Crap fuel trims and cold starts on those, and that’s from personal experience.

As far as the NGK - besides many users finding them defective out of the box, they aren’t necessary. You want to run the biggest gap you can, and stock plugs work extremely well in almost all scenarios, I’ve seen a few NGKS start giving wacky timing after only a few thousand miles. Not worth it

[AmuroRay]

Almost forgot - an inlet. MST V2 or CTS

[johnung]

Originally Posted by outofphase

Hey folks, 2015 335i xDrive (EWG). Currently at 69k miles, been FBO and running a custom Cary Jordan E30 tune since 40k with essentially zero issues. My goal from the beginning was to shoot for a 600+ “reliable” whp, so since purchasing the car @ 40k miles, I’ve been obsessive about maintenance and have taken the “if it breaks, upgrade it” approach. The plan now is to go with a gen 2 precision 6266, with a kit from speedtech or a custom fabricated solution from a good fabricator buddy of mine who I trust.

Current mods:

• VRSF chargepipe, catless downpipe, 5” FMIC
• XDI-60 HPFP
• GFB DV+
• Fuel-It! Upgraded fuel lines, BT flex fuel analyzer
• Custom straight-through exhaust
• tuned on bm3
• XHP Stage 3

Maintenance Already Done:

• Diff and trans fluid replaced @ 60k miles
• Compression/leakdown tested @ 65k miles, 180 and 10% on all cylinders
• New NGK 97506 plugs gapped to .020
• New ignition coils
• New OE injectors
• New OFHG + Mosselman Thermostat
• New OEM water pump and replaced all coolant hoses/lines that were looking brittle/weak
• Oil + Filter changed every 2500 miles using Liqui-moly 5w-40

Planned Maintenance + Mods

• Tensioner, Idler pulley, accessory belt
• Crank seal guard
• Vargas crank hub bolt capture
• Replace Valve Cover + Gasket
• Phoenix Racing intake manifold
• Port injection (necessary considering I’ve got the XDI-60 or not?)
• Walnut blasting
• Cold Air Intake (any rec’s for running a big turbo?)
• Bigger intercooler (rec’s welcome)
• 3.5bar TMAP sensor swap

If there’s anything I’m missing, or anything y’all think is unnecessary or would change, please let me know! Car’s not a daily, just a fun weekend car with a handful of trips to the drag strip every year. No road courses or auto cross. I’m aware these power levels are stretching the limits of the stock block, but I’ve got a truck/trailer and if it breaks, it’s just an excuse to build a new motor

Interesting project! I have the same car. I've modded to maximize it on E85 with the stock EWG turbo.

I'm not a fan of the aftermarket turbos that I've ridden in. They all move the torque curve up at least 1000 RPMs. The car loses its low end torque drivability that I love. Feels almost like turbo lag, having to get the revs up before power comes on. If I ever upgrade the turbo it will be a TTE460 which maintains the low end torque.

https://tteglobal.com/bmw/1-series/e...e-turbocharger

From what I've read 600hp is the limit before things start breaking. You mentioned being prepared to rebuild if the engine goes. You may want to look into things like transmission and driveshafts too.

Some maintenance items:
Front differential and transfer case fluids.
Upgrade to aluminum Mickey Mouse coolant flange & replace MM hose.
Replace upper radiator hose to expansion tank- plastic end fitting breaks.
Replace vent hose 11127599753, it looks fine but deteriorates from the inside.

Additional Upgrades:
MST Intake & MST Turbo Inlet Pipe maximize clean airflow from filter to turbo housing.
Upgrade Turbo To Intercooler Boost Pipe- stock pipe tends to balloon with age at higher HP.
Precision Raceworks LPFP Upgrade- at least the Stage2.5v2
Limited Slip Differential- I have BMW M Performance LSD which are discontinued, consider Quaife and M Factory.

Kies Seal Guard is the best, much more heavy duty than others. Precision fit!
Kies Bolt Lock is the best. Vargas Bolt Capture uses indoor black oxide bolts, tiny washers and has a round body that forces removal just to turn the crank by hand. Kies uses heavy duty zinc plated bolts, has a single washer for accurate torque and ease of installation, and has an outer bolt body making it simple to hand turn the crankshaft.

Avoid an $8,000 brake upgrade from AP Racing or BremboGT by using MP/MS Brembo F370/R345 brake calipers with StopTech's full floating front 370x30 rotors. They are BremboGT style rotors that fit the largest Brembo F30 calipers. Fantastic bite on the street and great in rain.

Good luck on your project. Links and photos below. Hope this helps!

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...8;_ss=r?aff=22

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...8;_ss=r?aff=22

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...8;_ss=r?aff=22

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...8;_ss=r?aff=22

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...8;_ss=r?aff=22

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...8;_ss=r?aff=22

[AmuroRay]

Are those MP the same 4 piston calipers that are found on the M2 and M235i,
Or actually different. It looks like the rotor is bigger.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

Yes, Mike Xph did a log on the MAD, in terms of 'ABSOLUTES' it wasn't quite as good as a VRSF-R, otherwise it's a solid alternative.

The MST, no opinion - it just didn't come to mind. To be honest, Injen would be my first go to. We have a few independent dynos on the forums that they work - and considering most intakes are a tube with a filter, they all are pretty similar with a few exceptions. The CTS being one, because it's hexagonal housing leads to very few (if any) CELs.

You can generally find both of these for sale on the forums. The general rule is just get any open filter intake, I would avoid the flat BMS, and Dinan. Crap fuel trims and cold starts on those, and that's from personal experience.

As far as the NGK - besides many users finding them defective out of the box, they aren't necessary. You want to run the biggest gap you can, and stock plugs work extremely well in almost all scenarios, I've seen a few NGKS start giving wacky timing after only a few thousand miles. Not worth it

I haven't seen or heard of any issues with the MST Intake. It's been really strong for me. I especially like how cleanly it mates with the MST Turbo Inlet Pipe.

I have heard of problems with NGK plugs after a few thousand miles that turned out to be counterfeit. Really slick knockoffs. I only buy them from FCP Euro now.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

Are those MP the same 4 piston calipers that are found on the M2 and M235i,
Or actually different. It looks like the rotor is bigger.

They are the same Brembo 4-piston calipers over 370x30 rotors. This particular set came off an M3 that was tracked. Their blue color had turned more green from the heat. I rebuilt them and had them powdercoated black.

Photo was taken before the white Brembo logos went on. The gold rotor color is a StopTech rust inhibitor that wears right off the pad swept area and turns dark inside the holes and vanes. I have a lot of brake photos. The angle that the photo is taken can make the caliper look larger or the rotor look larger.

The bite of these rotors with the Hawk 5.0 pads is incredible on the street. I really like the BremboGT and AP Racing brake kits but their cost is in the stratosphere. I really think my setup is the best for the street without jumping all the way up to one of them.

[outofphase]

Awesome responses, thanks a ton everyone, lot’s to dig into. I neglected to mention I plan on running full E85. I lucked out and live 5 minutes from a station that consistently tests 85-90% pure.

The NGKs were to tie me over until then since I needed them during my injector install and couldn’t track down the F8S that I like to run.

The trans is definitely a concern since I do plan on launching, crossing my fingers with the 8HP45 but am putting aside some savings just in case, but if I have to pull the tranny out I’ll probably use that as an excuse to build the motor anyway. As far as DCT swap vs 8HP70 vs a rebuild from pure, can anyone chime in?

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by outofphase

Awesome responses, thanks a ton everyone, lot’s to dig into. I neglected to mention I plan on running full E85. I lucked out and live 5 minutes from a station that consistently tests 85-90% pure.

The NGKs were to tie me over until then since I needed them during my injector install and couldn’t track down the F8S that I like to run.

The trans is definitely a concern since I do plan on launching, crossing my fingers with the 8HP45 but am putting aside some savings just in case, but if I have to pull the tranny out I’ll probably use that as an excuse to build the motor anyway. As far as DCT swap vs 8HP70 vs a rebuild from pure, can anyone chime in?

With full E85 at that power level you need HPFP+lift kit+DI injectors+LPFP (with EKP if needed). Or, you need LPFP + PI.

Read this thread: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1869441

and this linked from there: https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1782572

For trans, pure rebuild is certainly the path of least resistance, and these options were discussed recently. Pure rebuilds are becoming increasingly more common and someone on here is running one

[LA1Z24]

600hp is going to require a built transmission, 100%. XHP stage 3 will not cut it. I popped my 6th gear at around the 500hp mark. SlowSpeed on youtube had a big boost automatic car and whenever he raced he always had to skip 6th gear with a double tap of the paddle. He ended up parting the car out , and moving to an m340i because he didn't want to have a transmission built.

I have a PDS build transmission. If you have questions feel free to ask. The transmission requires maintenance. Pan and fluid every 15-20k miles.